Ok ill take any suggestions but here is what i have so far.

383 zz4 4bolt block
6.0 h beams rods and flat tops
10:1 compression
2500-6500 rpms

Timing cover- ZZ4 plastic p/n 12562818 $16.95

Moroso 6qt oil pan p/n MOR20182 $159.99

Moroso oil pump and pickup p/n MOR22125 $63.95

Moroso oil pump shaft p/n MOR22070 $13.95

Cloyes Timing chain p/n CLO-9-3145 $84.95

Weiand Water pump p/n WND-8240 $114.95

Comp Pro Mag rockers p/n CCA-1318 $324.95

Comp Hydraulic roller lifters 1.6 3/8 p/n CCA-850-16 $239.95

Comp spring beehive rate 313lb p/n CCA-26918 $179.95

Custom ground cam Comp hydraulic roller
dur 242in 248ex Lift 540in 562ex
LSA 112 small base

AFR195cc heads 68cc chambers
Miniram Intake

Ok any suggestions and some opinions on other parts i need.

 

Oh and sorry i had it all separated but it bunched it together after sending it. Also im ready to buy now why i want all the opinions i can get.

 

wouldn't use bee hive type spring and i'd buy oil pump from melling and a drive shaft from arp. have to look into it a bit more but i don't think i'd use 6" rods either

 

Why not use beehive springs, they are far superior to the regular cylindrical springs in every sense and way. Beehive springs are actually the derivative of engineering, not farming.

 

I wouldn't use them either.... no need.... what they are, is a work-around to jam a decent-sized spring into a stock-sized pocket. In other words, a solution to a non-existent problem, in the situation at hand.

Use Comp 987 or Crower 68390X3, installed at 1.800".

I wouldn't mess around with all that oil pan and pump stuff. The stock pan, a Melling M-55 pump, a Mr Gasket 26 spring, a Melling 55-S screen, and a melling IS-55E pump drive shaft, with the screen welded or otherwise permanently fastened, is all you need.

I'd recommend using some of that money on some other rocker studs besides the ones AFR supplies; ARP, Comp, Crower, etc.

 

Not sure I'd call beehives "work-around".

Avoidance of harmonics, reduced sprung weight, and lower valve train forces for the same RPM capability sounds like going in the right direction to me.

But then, I don't have a particular need for, nor experience with them, either.

 

I think your getting confused between "conical" and "beehive".

Beehives are new, they are shaped like a beehive. There are made of ovate variable diameter whinds that solve all the problems associated with springs.

I also don't have experience with them, but since GM is using them on the LSX derivates there has to be something withthem. Even the new mustang 3-valver jobs uses them. Alot of other manufactors of the higher end exotics have been using them for years.

Increased revving capability and valve control are a result of reduced spring mass, varying wire pitch, and unique coil spacing of the beehive design. Additionally, the #26120 beehive springs were engineered to maximize “harmonic resistance,” which results in the ability to handle spring harmonics throughout a wide RPM range.

COMP Cams® new #26120 Beehive Valve Springs may look unconventional, but they also deliver unconventional performance.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...ing/index.html

 

I just seen a few other people use that oil Pan and liked it thats all. As far as the springs comp recamended them when i called in about the cam. He told me to ask the guy at afr more about them when i call to get my heads. As far as the bottom end its alrdy bought and complete so i cant change it.

 

Added compression and rpm range i wanted I also still needed to decide on engine management cause I dont wont to have chips burnt. What about that cam doesnt the duration look a little low?

 

Another advantage of the beehive springs is that they are able to use smaller retainers, which are substantially lighter. Anything lighter in the valve train will pay off in less required spring tension for a given RPM, thus less drag and wear. When you see them appearing in race cars and OEM heads this quickly, they are on to something good.

 

That's what I meant by "reduced sprung weight".

 

Would i be fine reving to 6500 with no rev kit and hydraulic lifters. Comp said those lifters should hold up fine.

 

FIRST OFF ALOT OF YOUR BIG ENGINE "MIRACLE DISCOVERIES" WERE THE RESULT OF FARMERS AND FARMING JACKASS

 

Ummm you have problems if you dont want to discuss the topic then get out. I respect opinions i dont respect people that try to argue online.

 

no your knocking on the old school stuff when you knock on that gets to me, with out all the old school stuff our third gens prolly wouldnt even exist, sorry if i made you mad but...

 

I honestly don't know what you're talking about. I don't see anybody knocking "old school" here.

At any rate, I don't think much of your choice of words, and I'm not even a Democrat. I'd suggest a clean-up, and if you have a point to make, then say it within Board rules.

 

Farming is engineering vernacular or slang used in the industry. It is not a knock against framers, i live in a farming community and state.

Farming simply means solving a problem without analyzing the cause of the problem or engineering a solution; just slapping some **** together and calling it good.

An example is: "Hey my valves seem to float at 6000rpm" I know what i'll do i will just throw more spring at it, that will fix it"

 

Guess I'm a little slow today. Still don't see how that contributes to a friendly information exchange, or what prompted it.

 

Does anyone know if the zz4 block uses a different timing cover then a 90 roller block ?

 

1 More question i listed the 1318 rocker arms but that is most likely for stock center bolt heads i was guessing. Since i am running afr heads that arent center bolt couldnt i run the 1305's for the 7/16 studs and they are also cheaper.

 

Rockers either are self aligning or non-self aligning. Non-SA will always be cheaper.

 

Should fit the block and oil pan the same.