since i couldn't explain it well before

i was drving down the road the other day, and i stopped at a red light. while sitting there my lights dimmed, and the rpm suddenly went to 0, like someone turned off the car.

SO i had it pushed home, and i get it here, checked the basics, the fuel pump primed, and i pulled a spark plug boot and it arced to the exhaust manifold.

There was a spark i guess, while i had it turning over for 3 seconds or more it only arced once.

What could be wrong if i am getting some spark and fuel from the pump....

Tell em what to check and i'll check it, i got a volt meter, a check light, and all knds of tool plus tomorow is x-mas so i got all day to work with what i got so... please help me.



shane

 

You didn't read a damn thing in your other posts did you?!?

 

search, i've searched so much i cant search for another 45 seconds.....


this is gettign crazy, you tlel me i dont search if they logged all the darn searches i did i'd make up for alteast half of the damn things.... if you guys would stop being so freggin stupid and just help me like i'm any other member and because i need help.... that would be very good, but since you gotta be such a dick about things fine, i'll search again, butyou need tofreggin realize the searches still dont answer my question buddy.

 

Maybe it is the timing chain. I would pull the cover off and have a look.

 

Why would i need to check timing, are you suspecting that my darn timing chain broke, cause if that happened wouldn't i have to worry about more then the chain, maybe even my valves and stuff....


plus you gotta drop the oil pan, and all kinds of stuff to check the darn chain, i dont think thats it....

 

The timing chain usually doesn't break but it slacks and jumps a tooth or 2. A gasket set is $7. This would be your only expense if the chain checks good. Not alot of labor. Takes about 15-30 minutes to remove and replace timing cover. 40 minutes if you need to actually replace the chain. I would start here.

 

i have a feeling your trying to playa game, the timing cover eh, what do you drive a darn honda, on my car i gotta remove all the darn accessories, and then drop the oil pan a little bit, and then from there proceed, you've got to be kidding, 15-30 minutes, hehe....

how could that happen tho... i mean i was at the darn light and it just turned off like someone turned the key off..... didn't seem mechanical, to tell ya the truth i didn't even feel the car turn off, i saw the lights dim, and the tach when i saw it was at 0...




shane

 

plus checking the timing chain, what good would that do if i cant tell what TDC is?

 

Small block chevy is THE easiest motor in the world to work on. A timing belt on a foreign car is very time consuming. No need at all to drop the oil pan on a chevy. If my advise is bad I will not offer any more of it. Good luck

 

Come on guys! Back me up on this. Tell this guy it is a timing chain and how simple they are to change.:lala:

 

Yep, you need help... with the English language in general, courtesy, manners, listening and comprehension... too damn much, yet we are being 'freggin stupid'.

Mickey, I treat you like everyone else. You got your chances just like everyone else. I have been a little soft on you, but that is because your posts are so damn asinine that you give me not a thing to work with. You act like the little kid that gets beat up during recess. You don't listen to a damn thing. I even gave you the terms to search with.

But I’ll give you yet another chance here…

Use a plug to check spark twinkle toes.
Unplug the MAF and try starting it.
Check the fuel PRESSURE.
Check pump operation by energizing the G terminal of the ALDL.
When installing the IM (or ICM as you call it) do NOT use regular dielectric grease.
And once again BUY A ****ING BOOK OR THREE!!! They have troubleshooting charts in there so that even you could follow them.

Now that last one is your hint so you don't get beat up at recess too much Mickey. See if instead you came on here and said ' Hey, I have this problem and tried this, this, and this' we wouldn't think you were such a tool. You could probably even learn to explain your rational. Instead you come in here cry and whine and expect someone to change your diaper. Won't happen, you'll have to sit in your own sheit.

You also argue points you know nothing about. Want to learn a bit about the MAF and how in depth some people know 'em? Search for MAF with Vader's sn. You'll be amazed... and it should shut you up for a few hours to boot.

Now go try starting your car with the MAF unplugged.

 

Dood, almost sounds as if you wore out your welcome...

I previously experienced the same problem and took my coil and ignition module in for testing at my local auto parts store. The ignition module failed several of the tests performed. I dont remember the exact cost but, approx 30.00 for a new IGN module and it fixed the problem. Good luck.

 

He's already done that. It's in another of his post ***** threads. Though I'm unsure if actually installed yet, and am unwilling to guess at the quality, or lack thereof, of the installation.


d00d.

 

As usual I didn't bother reading to the end of your post, just came back and noticed this. Quick serch of the things I told you and how I tod you to do it revealed these on the first page:

from (fourth one down):
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...=Fuel+AND+pump

And I'll admit, maybe 'check AND spark' may not be the best for a search, but you have a brain, I think, so use it and figure out what you need to find.

This of course puts aside the fact that a BOOK, which you promised to buy, would have had instructions on how to check spark. But what the hell do I know, I'm "freggin stupid".

 

I still vote we have him rip off the timing cover on christmas day. He may learn something!

 

Yea, he'll learn the parts stores aren't open on Christmas.

 

That is when I was going to explain the proper cereal box to cut up and use as a gasket. Capt. Crunch seems to work the best!

 

This is like a bad car wreck, hate to look but can't help it.

 

Yep, that's the general consensus. I'm just wondering why he's still logged on and hasn't gone to try turning over his car yet so he can make yet another thread that'll get locked.

 

cause it tooo late....


i've been reading and searching...

and the link you gave me told me what i told you before " A start and immediate stall is classic bad MAF symptoms."

the maf only kicks in at a certain RPM. before that the engine will fire up and then suddenly stall, my maf went bad before, i replaced it, it did what was described in that thread, mine dont ever do anything besides turn the motor..

My car doesn't even start or fire once... its crazy.... we sprayed starter fluid in the intake, with the elbow off and still nothing... so its defiantely not fuel.

ITs gotta be electrical related i'm guessing...

 

Your right about the possible MAF symptoms. While cranking, the fueling is done via a crank pulsewidth table and some other stuff. Once the motor has come above 400 rpm or so, then the ecm switches over to use the MAF. The MAF flow stored within the ecm is clamped to a min of 3 grams a second. Whether or not this will supply enough fuel to get the engine to run in some fashion depends on teh size of the motor, temperature outside, etc. If its cool/cold out then Im thinking a possible no.

One of the first things Id do is get a genuine AC Delco module and coil. Always a good investment. The parts store stuff is junk.

After that, do some diagnostics to see where the possible problem is. A manual like a chiltons will cover this in some detail.

 

How much did you crank the engine? It may be flooded. Press the gas pedal all the way to the floor and then crank it. IIRC, it should cut the fuel entirely with your ecm. Itll at least help clear out some of the gas even if it doestn start.

 

i'm terribly afriad its flooded, so i floor the car before i turn it over and it should stop fuel from going to the motor? or do i just oull the fuel pump fuse and turn it over for a little bit....


if so, which fuse controls the fuel pump...

 

There isn't one for your car, pull the injector fuses instead.

 

Typically, the fuse marked "fuel pump" or fp is the fuel pump fuse. This too is clearly marked in the service manual and varies with different years/models

 

ok better yet. take all of your spark plugs out, then manually crank the engine over a couple revolutions by hand (if you tap the starter then you could get a fire if the plugs spark, and fuel sloshes out of the cylinders).

Then replace your fuel fouled spark plugs with new ones. Then you should be good to go. And for ***** and giggles, unplug your MAF sensor when you do this. That way you can rule out the MAF atleast.

If it ends up starting then, then shut it down, reconnect the MAF, and try again.

If it doesnt work then, then you have narrowed it down.

Did you check all things distributor wise? Here's a picture of a V6's dizzy, but the exact same principles apply to testing your V8's.

 

That is generally true on some models, in the case of his car the fuse is marked fp/clstr and is only for the fuel pump if the car is a L4 VIN 2 or a V8 VIN G.

 

Either way he certainly won't listen.

 

the diagram helps, but i have an older style HEI distributor. i have the one with the coil mounted on top....


merry christmas all!!!!!!