Well Yea not thirdgen but a 350 is a 350 Yea I know not always.
This is for my fully restored 76 C10. The engine that is in it now is from an 87 mini bus the one with the heavy duty block and one piece rear main. The crank is realy jacked up "guess it dident like those 6700rpm shifts " im certain it borders on non turnable, very deep scrapes, so im wanting opionions on stroking or destroking?
I have a 327 crank and a adapter for the crank is cheap so im leaning toward destroking it. But the steel 383 crank is reasonable and I would not have to purchase an adapter. The engine has major work done to the top end and puts out over 400hp just with the top end mods. The truck is in show condition, so show runing condition is a must
Money isnt an issue, well at least as soon as I recoup from 5000 grand I dumped into my firebird.
So any opionions are welcome as always!
SSC

 

If I were you I'd make it bigger. The 383's have alot more torque.

 

I believe in a truck you'd do better to get all the inches you can. At least, don't downgrade it.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

The 383 has tremendous amount of torque and would be great for a pickup.

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82 Z28 383, Ported 215cc Dart Iron Eagle Heads 72 cc Comb. Chambers, Comp custom grind Hyd roller cam, Speed Pro .250" domes, Wheeler Motorsports 4340 I beam rods, Eagle 5140 steel crank, Weiand Team G intake, Holley 830 DP, hedman headers
Trans: Turbo 350 w/ 4000 stall -- Rearend 7.5 w/ Richmond 4.10's, Auburn Minispool
Best ET: first pass- 11.78 @ 112.83, 7.48 @ 91.94, 1.641 60' time


89 RS, L03 305, Hypertech Chip,cat delete, Dynomax exhaust,K&N open element Filter,160 stat, MSD coil --Trans:700R4 Corvette Servo -- Rearend: 7.5 GM 3.42 w/ posi-lock
New Best ET: 14.91 @92.9
Bassett Racing

 

If your gonna rev this thing the 383 may not be the best option...383's usually dont like anything above 5500-6000 rpm, and ya gotta clearance the block and make sure your cap bolts dont hit the cam...but yes they do have tremendous low end torque aka stump pullers! not sure about the destroked version of the 350 but from my experience with the 400 block with the 350 crank "destroked 400" to a 377 makes the power high and with quality parts and balancing that thing will rev to the moon and not complain....depends on what your use will be...build it for what your gonna use it for...

-Brian

 

SSC,

What rear gears are you contemplating? And what do you want from the truck when finished? (I'm guessing you ain't gonna haul old shingles and firewood.)

If you are putting it on the street as a cruiser, the 383 steel crank might be the way to go. If you don't mind lower fuel mileage and less top end, and want to make a couple of impressions at the track, the 327 is not a bad idea with the right gearing. A C-10 should have a fairly low ratio for a truck, unless it was a manual transmission "heavy-half", in which case you might be as tall a 4.11:1.

If you're going with an overdrive automatic (not original) you could get the 327 to deliver decent mileage and top end. Since either one is going to take about the same amount of greenery out of your butt, the cost differential would be stuck in balancing the 383.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

The truck had a 3:73 non posi rear "5 lug" and a muncie HD 3speeed. I was thinking about the 383 It does make sence in a heavy truck but any more torque than it already has and my head will go through the rear glass .
I have a tci rattler 8 "torsional vibration absorber" wheh big word for 345.00$ ballancer will that work with the iron eagle steel crank pt# "435337505700"? Jegs isnt very specific in thier listings with internal or external balance.
Thanks for all the replys so far guys!
SSC

 

My suggestion is two-fold....go with the 383 and run a higher (lower numerically) gear like a 3.08 to help keep the light a$$end down.

I run an mildly warmed LS5 454 w/TH400 in my '57 1/2ton w/3.08's, the truck is pretty predictable off the line unless I get "mash-happy" with the throttle.

 

You might hit me for this, but why not buy a replacement 350 crank?

I've heard bad about people trying to stroke 350's, clearance problems... (although obviously many people have done it and had it work well)

and destroking it is no fun, although it would live through your high shift RPM's...

Do what you want, in the end it up to you anyway. (I know, big help...

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1985 Camaro SC - 2.8L, auto.

Mods:
Removed air baffles, mandrel bent cat-back pipes (but stock replacment muffler, Dynomax Turbo and Catco converter are on thier way)

 

Not a problem Xe, any opionins are welcome.
I was talking to a guy at the machine shop, I mean "Doing my job at the help desk " and he was telling me that I should just replace the 350 crank with another. The one problem I see with any decsion is that the entire roatating assembly was ballanced when I rebuilt it. It would all have to be re ballanced so thats the reason I was pondering stroke or destroke .
Either and all ways a fair amount of money has to go into it.
Too many vehicals to many wants!
SSC

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"I'm a steel tormentor and I speed around every turn"
Helloween..

 

Well I pulled out the crank last night the bearings I put in six months ago were fine just a little scratched up. I took the crank down to a crank service to see if there was any hope. The guy took one look at it and sad "Gee kid, Did ya through a handful of sand in the oil" "I replyed yes, yes I did"LOL! well that crank was shot. He did have a 400 crank but he wanted a core so that was a no go. I ended up buying a reground 350 crank, 180$ I though it was a fair deal he sold me some non coated bearings for 23$ so 203$ total. He also told me that the tci dampers were a pile of crap and have to be rebuilt every so often and thats what could have caused my cranks problem. Hmm I think he was trying to sell me a shinny fluid damper. I guess i'll use the old stock ballancer for awhile.
SSC

 

Summit has dirt cheap brand new cast 350 cranks. Get them with the engine kit and it's even cheaper (cheaper than having a machine shop cut an old one).

I just got my kit today and i'm inpressed... All fel-pro gaskets and federal mogul bearings, pump... Not bad for the cash.



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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)

 

Well I put the crank in last nigh Man was it a "PITA" I really like getting assembly lube in my eye. Well the whole instalation took about 3 hours. Trucks are soo much easyer than cars to work on ! I forgot that my timing chain and oil pump are under warenty dident even think about it until 1:30AM but by that time the engine was sealed up, oh well. The oil pressure was at 65 cold and 20 hot before. Now its 70 cold and 50 hot not bad at all. Now if i can get home for lunch and swap my truck for my car without getting a ticket for expired tags and no current insurance. I guess I could out run a cop anyway! J/K
SSC

Thanks for all the imput guy's!!

[This message has been edited by SUPER-SPORT-CHEVY (edited June 14, 2001).]