ok guys, after i replaced 5 pushrods today, the car wont idle....

I had already disconnected the Maf sensor and it still wont idle...


Could my pushrods be that bad off or what?




Shane

 

why are you replacing pushrods? there are many many many things that could cause your engine to not idle properly..

 

Why would I not be suprised if you used the wrong length?

 

Have we verified the timing and the timing set? (Cam to crank)

(Doesnt probation mean its easier to get banned?)

 

7.2" for Roller cam, 7.8" for flat tappet I believe.

 

Check the air cleaner for blockage. I dropped a pushrod in it once and the motor ran poorly.

 

did you set valve lash properly?

 

Back again with the same question.
If your pushrods are bent, what was the cause?

Answer:
Piston to valve contact.

Sorry to be the bearer of bad news.
But... Maybe you'll be lucky and only need a valve job.

 

I agree.

I don't know how "lucky" he will be, though.

 

He really did have a messed up timing chain and pushrods among other things as verifed by a member in our local club.
I would imagine he doesn't know a damn thing about setting lash or timing a car.
He feels the need to post the same questions on both here and my local board.
I can feel the quality of my local board going down hill already. Therefore, I would like to return him to floriduh..postage due.

 

Take your damn car to a shop please. None of this friend of a friend crap, my ex-girlfriends dad, your next door neighbor that build lawnmowers, or some guy that once saw a Nascar race.

Your car needs help and so do you!!!

 

:concurrence:

 

looking at the pics on the other site, i can see why he probably has low oil pressure now, the pick up screen is probably clogged up with the teeth from the old cam gear.

poor car.

on 12-29-2004 at 8:33 PM Red Devil wrote,.. "iunno. I think the car had enough and commited suicide. Maybe it was allergic to fur :shrug: "

 

You Mean... There really is a Shane???
And he's a real dude and he actually has a car...
And the stuff that he posts is honestly taking place????

Do a compression test Shane, and let us know what happened.

 

d00d, Sahne, at this point you really just need to yank the motor and go through the whole thing top to bottom, seriously.

 

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Streetiron85
[B]You Mean... There really is a Shane???
And he's a real dude and he actually has a car...
And the stuff that he posts is honestly taking place????

I was thinking the same thing myself,If you go to his Cardomain site,it appears that he actually does own a pretty nice looking car
I was kind of taken aback ,myself
Later
Steve

 

shane or whoever you supposedly are didnt you say in your other thread that got locked that you had replaced the push rods already??

you probably have a bent valve and you need to find out for sure ...

or you dont have the valve lash set correctly ..

 

I've been following this saga for about a month now. There appears to be a large gap in communication in several threads related to your problems. You are frequently given sound advice and direction, but somehow seem to reply with an apparently completely unrelated response. Is it just me that's missing something.

This latest round of problems seems to be related to the valve timing issue you posted. There is a very good chance that you have some of these:



You mentioned that the engine will not idle. Will it run at all? Reconnect the MAF, and stop trying to find other reasons for the problems you're experiencing. If the MAF is bad, the ECM will ignore it and run the engine anyway.

If it runs, but roughly and poorly, it may be due to the lack of compression. That would be another indication of bent valves. You could also verify that with a compression test or cylinder leakage test.

Another less definitive method would be to test the valve action for each valve. For that, you need to remove both rocker covers if they aren't already off, and remove the rocker arms. Test the valve action with a lever type spring compressor to make sure the valve will actuate at least 1/2 inch, then return on their own with the help of the valve spring. If any are sticky, you likely have a bent valve. You could stop right there and start removing the heads.

You'll probably end up doing that anyway.

Is that clear enough?

 

i fixed it guys, i had set valve lash way too tight and valves were not closing properly, i eventually just used the engine running method, by loosening until i heard lash and tighened until it was gone, then gave it half to 3/4 turn for my preset, car runs great now...


but it was buring off that oil forever guy,,,, its crazy....

 

well from what i learnered today.... i took it to a shop and payed the guy $5 to use his compression tester while in his garage myself, and my compression on all cyelenders is just up to spec he said, i didn't know what i was looking at tho, i though compression was like 9.5:!, it read in PSI so i havn't a clue....


but he said my compression was very good for an engine in the age mine was...


but heres the pics from before...

heres the bad pushrod...




heres the old timing chain and stuff...

 

Holy crap he is real! :hail:

 

OMG that .... gear.... its..... teeth.....

Well anyways, i guess you are learning (albiet slowly)

glad it turned out ok

 

wanna know a weird thing tho guys, for some reason my oil pan had a 1 peice seal, the ummm little rubber thing included in the box was supposed to be replaced, except the stock one was part of the oil pan gasket, i dont know how but it was...


It was weird..... the thing is i've had a slgith ticking under the valve covers for quite some time, i think it was those slightly bent push rods, and when the motor actually had decent power and correct timing, they just finished themseves off...

But the motor runs great now, better then ever...


If i stomp on the pedal from a stop, mind my tires are slightly bald, it will burn rubber until its partway into second gear.....

 

Before you do anything else, change the oil and filter.
You've been lucky so far, not to have bent any valves. Maybe your luck will still be with you and your filter would have caught all the chips without loading up completely and bypassing the stuff into the oil passages and killing your bearings.
I suggest an oil change, followed by another change real soon, just as a flush.
Hows the oil pressure?

That sprocket is so worn, I thought I was looking at an LT1 sprocket

 

well general, i didn't exactly replace them i had bought them but not installed them yet, i didn't know howto, but later that day i did a lot of searching a research, and ended up talking to pasky, and he helped me out a bit, but other then that i figured the valve lash thing out myself...


I could tell if a pushrod was unders tress by spinning it and whatnot, if it was not movable, otr the rocker was moved, i would not touch it, i'm spin the motor more until it was not under stress... Each of the 5 rods i replaced were done that way....

Then i reset valve lash on ever one while the motor was running. that was fun i couldn't see sometimes causeof the smoke from buring oil.... but was very well worth it, the motor runs so great now, and the vibration i've have for a few months now is completely gone....

 

yes i did change the oil filter i have one of those cool oil filter pre screens, alot of them were on top of it, plus i use the longer oil filters that have more capacity, i changed it earlier today, and i disassembled the filter by cutting it open and alot of metal shaving were in there, so i'm hoping i'm good...

My oil pressure has went back to normal also, stays at a good 45 at idle and goes up at RPM.... and thats with 30 weight oill at high temps.... my motor runs storng guys.....

i've always got worried when my car's oil pressure was at 30 at idle, but my step-dad always told me that was because of the idle back then.... there was a big vaccum leak and the idle was funky, and it would idle crappy....


But one more thing i've noticed, the car's exhuast note has changed quite a bit, its alot more loapy, i went to the guy who replaced my harmonic balancer back in the day and he hearsd a definate difference in the idle sound, he coulda swore i had out a came in there when i replaced the chain.... The guy who did it also, said it sounded like i have a came, so i have no clue.....



but the car runs great guys....

 

A timing chain that's as loose as yours was would retard the cam timing enough to effect the idle quality.
I'm sure it has more low end grunt now and a smoother idle etc.

 

valve lash will effect exhaust tone.

 

you wouldn't believe the improvement i've gained man, i never knew....


the car feels atleast 25-40% stronger now.....

I am glad that the $300 i've spent in the last week was completely worth it.....


And i love it when people come over to fix my car, cause that way i can learn so next time i can do it myself....

But the timing chain actually isn't that difficult guys.... i woulda thought oh my gosh, but now that i helped do it, i found how not as complicated as i thought it was...

but i'm glas

 

yeah, the lash is set correctly now tho, the car just sounds healthy now, way better then before, i'm gonan go ahead soon and take all accessories off the car and spray the block, while in the car with carb cleaner and stuff, so i can whipe off all the old oil, freshen the car up a it ya know....

but i am most liekly just gonna get a nice running 350 short block soon, and get my LB9 heads fixed up, and fully ported and polished, strap them on the 350 and run some major compression and power... thats for beginners, i'll eventuall get better heads but they'll do for now...

The local yard here wants $90 for a shirtblock, and then they'll give me $30 for my 305 short block, so i'm only out what, $60, then a guy i know said $200 to install.

Hopefully when i move back to florida, it'll be as cheap too....

 

what is this, like the 5th time you've changed your mind in a month about an engine swap lol? anyways for whatever it's worth, glad you have the car running properly again, and hopefully it will be okay for a while. 350's are fun, plenty of torque for when you're feeling playful.

 

well i'm supposed to be leaving the day i get the 454's, so i gotta tlak to the d00d who wanted to buy it from me for $500, that day, because i'll lower the price to whatever he has that day as long as its gone, dont have a u-haul to take it home with me, but i will make sure to take pics of it...

i am gettign two, butr i already promiced my best friend the other one and he's hauling it away..... so....

 

A 454 for a daily driver at 17? I don't know, it just doesn't seem like a real reliable form of transportation being that is your only car right?

 

yeah, thats why i'm selling them to make some money for a engine....

 

That poor, poor car...

 

Oh yea... Where's that Eaton Mikey? I still want it.

 

Not to dwell on past subjects here but I seem to remember you posting about tire wear at about 9K miles recently and you couldn't imagine why after posting earlier about doing lots of burn-outs. Then you posted about getting new tires after claiming the old tires were defective. Now you're doing burn-outs on slightly bald tires again. What gives here?

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=266655

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=268672

 

 

Different medication?

That has to be it

 

it's been maybe two months... lord knows I could make a cheap tire burn to the ground in a month.... a day if I really wanted to LOL. I'm thinking Shane's been on the loud pedal alot ("loud pedal" is property of Stekman, all rights reserved)

 

 

thry are now getting bald...... hehe

 

:lala: :lala: :lala:

 

Starting to sound like another defective tire claim here.

 

Could you explain to me what loapy is ?
And what a came is in an engine?

Do you mean the cam and it makes the car sound LOPEY

I really dont think that you have a high lift cam now thats really really hard to believe...

The paragraph I quoted of yours above makes my head hurt when i read it man why dont you please try and slow down and type your words so we can understand whay you are trying to say and try to spell the words correctly next time please.

I am glad you got your car running again I do however feel very sorry for the car ....