LT-1 or LS-1.................
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, Az, USA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: T5
LT-1 or LS-1.................
I have currently been looking around for a z-28 fourth gen. Besides the LS-1 engine getting more horses and stuff, Is the LS-1 a lot better than the LT-1? Because I have seen a few 1997 fourth gens on ebay and I know that was the last year that they put the LT-1 in the camaro. I prefer the 93-97 style to the newer models because I'm not a fan of the circle headlights the newer camaros have. So does the LS-1 get better gas mileage? Or does the LT-1 engine just suck? Thanks
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V6 Bone Stock
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V6 Bone Stock
Senior Member

Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 762
Likes: 2
From: Riverside, CA
Car: 1987 Camaro IROC-Z
Engine: 305TPI
Transmission: 700R4
LS1 gets better gas mileage, runs smoother, builds better horsepower, will stomp pretty much anything from 60mph on..
LT1 is easier to work on (simpler) uses the same basic concepts as TPI, has more parts available for it and is cheaper to mod and maintain
your choice, i guess..
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Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org
LT1 is easier to work on (simpler) uses the same basic concepts as TPI, has more parts available for it and is cheaper to mod and maintain
your choice, i guess..
------------------
Webmaster: www.IROC-Z.org
Supreme Member
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 1,053
Likes: 3
From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
IMO, I would definitely go for the LS1. The LT-1 doesn't suck, it's just the LS1 is better. The LS1 heads out of the factory flow damn near the same as many aftermarket aluminum heads for a conventional SBC. There are enough mods out there for them to make them run 10s and 11s NA with a simple head/cam/intake package and stock short block.
Check out this dudes webpage, his car is impressive...high 10s, NA on the stock shortblock in an automatic and a lot of weight reduction.
http://xs-fx.com/raughammer/
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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
Check out this dudes webpage, his car is impressive...high 10s, NA on the stock shortblock in an automatic and a lot of weight reduction.
http://xs-fx.com/raughammer/
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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
Go with the LT 1 not many people understand that the LS 1 is all aluminiun and the cast iron lt 1 block will hold up better to large doses of horsepower.The LS 1 will hold up but not maybe people who own the cars understand the Newer block.If it is a daily driver go for LS1 but if you plan on going hardcore go LT1
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1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
TB Coolant bypass
"Three of the scariest letters you will ever see GTA"
Take a good look you won't see em for long
------------------
1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
TB Coolant bypass
"Three of the scariest letters you will ever see GTA"
Take a good look you won't see em for long
Im sure all those guys With stock shortblocks In the 10's NA aren't hardcore enough For you.
Check out the last Issue of Hotrod.
not to Mention the Mike Morgan Motorsports special 427 LS1 In the 9's NA....
That alluminum must really suck....
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60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver 15.26 @ 87.0
Reader's ride -> My Ride
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
D00d, this is like comparing mustang vs. camaro. The LS-1... where can i start. all aluminum, 8 coils!!, EASY to make much more hp, the heads as said before.. and geez! have you driven one! gawd. If you have the option, LS-1 is the pitbull of the lot i say. Yea, its not truely blazing from the factory, but what is? If your really seriuos about making some power, get a good supercharging kit for it. I saw somewhere on the net a guy who had a 98 LS-1, lowered hte compression to 9.5 or around there, put a D1-SC on it, and with some other drivetrain and chassis mods he's running very low 11's. Yea, you can do this with an L98.. but i think that if your in the market for a 4th gen camaro anyways.. go with the lighter(and much more advanced) LS-1.. i dont know most of the mods they made to it specifically over the LT-1, but why not have the all aluminum engine with the technology in it? just my opinion, but to all his own
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- 83 Z28-- not a pretty site to look at, 200k miles and im sure it was treated like a rental car every day of its sad life(before i got it).. sold, thank the lord
- 74 Z28-- 383/400, green on black. pretty clean. FOR SALE!!!
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Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 1,338
Likes: 0
From: Chander, Arizona USA
Car: 2006 Silverado 1500
Engine: 5.3L
Transmission: 4L60E
i personally own a 4th gen with LT1 and it is a great car and all, but i've also worked on and driven the LS1 cars (i work for a chevy dealer) and the LS1 design is much better than the LT1. there isn't as much out there as you'd think for the LT1 since it has the reverse cooling. the LS1 is fast and doesn't need as much aftermarket stuff to start with. it already has the full roller valvetrain with 1.7 rockers and 6 bolt main caps. with heads that will also outflow most aftermarket heads for the LT1. just my choice, if you can afford the LS1, get that.
No i did not say they were junk you ****ing moron.I have a Pontiac Engine guide magazine and it compares the LT1 AND THE LS1.I quote "the average performance engine builder lacks the pratical experience in building an all aluminum engine. The aluminum LS1 has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion and very unique machining needs among other things"end quote. Plus the LT1 has a bigger bore.i quote again"The LS1 will run out of cubes 'and induction' long before an equivalent LT1" .Straight from the magazine.
------------------
1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
TB Coolant bypass
"Three of the scariest letters you will ever see GTA"
Take a good look you won't see em for long
[This message has been edited by Stormshadow GTA (edited June 15, 2001).]
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1987 Trans AM GTA
305 5SPD
Hypertech airfoil
gutted maf
kn filter
High Flow Cat,
3"Walker pipe
Dynomax Super turbo Muffler
TB Coolant bypass
"Three of the scariest letters you will ever see GTA"
Take a good look you won't see em for long
[This message has been edited by Stormshadow GTA (edited June 15, 2001).]
I always wanted to buy an LT1 and supercharge it. I think the LT1 responds pretty well to supercharging and the kits are _relatively_ cheap. Get an LT1 for $6-$12K and put a $3K supercharger on it and another $1K in exhaust/misc upgrades (injectors/LCA's/Drag Radials/etc..) and you'll have a pretty nice and fast daily driver. My bro is buying a new LS1 Trans Am though this week, and those things are nice. Much smoother that the LT1, but besides N20, we probably won't be modifying it too much. Plus w/ a new car you get a warranty.
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 3,197
Likes: 10
From: Manassas VA
Car: 04 GTO
Engine: LS1
Transmission: M12 T56
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Stormshadow GTA:
No i did not say they were junk you ****ing moron.I have a Pontiac Engine guide magazine and it compares the LT1 AND THE LS1.I quote "the average performance engine builder lacks the pratical experience in building an all aluminum engine. The aluminum LS1 has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion and very unique machining needs among other things"end quote. Plus the LT1 has a bigger bore.i quote again"The LS1 will run out of cubes 'and induction' long before an equivalent LT1" .Straight from the magazine.
</font>
No i did not say they were junk you ****ing moron.I have a Pontiac Engine guide magazine and it compares the LT1 AND THE LS1.I quote "the average performance engine builder lacks the pratical experience in building an all aluminum engine. The aluminum LS1 has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion and very unique machining needs among other things"end quote. Plus the LT1 has a bigger bore.i quote again"The LS1 will run out of cubes 'and induction' long before an equivalent LT1" .Straight from the magazine.
</font>
And all that special machining and blueprinting can wait till after he blows the stock engine after running high 10s on teh stock shortblock.
Gear your advice for your audience...
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
One thing to consider is that the LT1 is nearly a drop-in, while the LS1 is completely different externally. Absolutely nothing bolts up.
The LS1 is a superior motor for performance. Look at the intake ports in the heads sometime, and you'll get an idea why. The SBC has one serious limitation to its potential, which is that it uses a pattern of 5 head bolts around each cylinder; by the time you put all those bolts through the head, plus the push rods, there's room for only some little intake ports. The LT1 shares that design characteristic, the LS1 does not.
Only time will tell whether the LS1 will have the same kind of long-term durability as the older motors. But if I were picking motors, I'd go with it over the LT1 any day if I could.
BTW - ever worked on a LT1 Opti-Spark right after the water pump went out? That's enough to make you think twice.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
The LS1 is a superior motor for performance. Look at the intake ports in the heads sometime, and you'll get an idea why. The SBC has one serious limitation to its potential, which is that it uses a pattern of 5 head bolts around each cylinder; by the time you put all those bolts through the head, plus the push rods, there's room for only some little intake ports. The LT1 shares that design characteristic, the LS1 does not.
Only time will tell whether the LS1 will have the same kind of long-term durability as the older motors. But if I were picking motors, I'd go with it over the LT1 any day if I could.
BTW - ever worked on a LT1 Opti-Spark right after the water pump went out? That's enough to make you think twice.
------------------
"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports
Guest
Posts: n/a
<font face="Verdana, Arial" size="2">Originally posted by Stormshadow GTA:
No i did not say they were junk you ****ing moron.I have a Pontiac Engine guide magazine and it compares the LT1 AND THE LS1.I quote "the average performance engine builder lacks the pratical experience in building an all aluminum engine. The aluminum LS1 has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion and very unique machining needs among other things"end quote. Plus the LT1 has a bigger bore.i quote again"The LS1 will run out of cubes 'and induction' long before an equivalent LT1" .Straight from the magazine.
</font>
No i did not say they were junk you ****ing moron.I have a Pontiac Engine guide magazine and it compares the LT1 AND THE LS1.I quote "the average performance engine builder lacks the pratical experience in building an all aluminum engine. The aluminum LS1 has a higher coefficient of thermal expansion and very unique machining needs among other things"end quote. Plus the LT1 has a bigger bore.i quote again"The LS1 will run out of cubes 'and induction' long before an equivalent LT1" .Straight from the magazine.
</font>
First off, you need to stay away from magazines as gospel, quite often they screw things up.
Second, on the above note, take a look at all the aluminum engined cars running faster than 12's... just go do a search on the net and see what you find, there is a whole bunch of them.
Third, WTF IS YOUR PROBLEM? Your attitude is totally uncalled for. Keep it up and I'll do what I can to have you banned permanently.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 1,065
Likes: 0
From: Tucson, Az, USA
Car: 1992 RS
Engine: 3.1L V6
Transmission: T5
Thanks a lot to all you guys! I probably won't have enough for a LS1 So I will probably go with the LT1. But I will always keep my thirdgen though. Can a stock LT1 hold it's own in most street races?
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V6 Bone Stock
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V6 Bone Stock
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 1999
Posts: 545
Likes: 0
From: Fairfax, VA
Car: 1987 Trans Am
Engine: LT1
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 10 Bolt SLP Torsen, 3.73 ratio
One more thing that may convince you to go ls1/ls6
If you drive like I do...FAST, ad take turns like I do...FAST...you want the ls1/ls6 Many systems were thrown in there to reduce "High Performance Oil Consumption"...something I have a big problem with! If you take high G turns all the oil can end up in the top end of one side! The ls1/ls6 has a re-designed better PCV system to help alleviate this. Plus the tons of power you can get outta one! Given the choice I'd go LS1. LT1 may take more abuse (i.e. allow you to do stupid stuff for a short time like a 400+ shot of nitrous hehe) In the end, if it kills the aluminum block, it'll probably take out the cast iron block too...jsut not as violantly. The aluminum is *much* lighter, and the LS1/LS6 is just a *MUCH* better designed motor! If you can get it, do it, you won't be sorry!
Corry
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Corry Lazarowitz
clazarow@voicenet.com
clazarowitz@hotmail.com
1987 Pontiac Trans AM (GTA?) 350 or is it a 305?! TPI
SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3" cat back (stock cat
MSD ignition.
MSD Blaster SS coil.
3.73 Rear end gears
Accell 8.8 Wires
Bosh +4 Spark Plugs (Don't know if they really help but hell!)
Holley AFPR
Race Built Automatic trans ('vette servo, shift kit, tightly packed clutches)--just needs titanium gears now!
Newly gutted cat (the car gutted it's own cat!)
Hypertech Chip (Just found out I had it! :eek
More soon when funds are avail...
If you drive like I do...FAST, ad take turns like I do...FAST...you want the ls1/ls6 Many systems were thrown in there to reduce "High Performance Oil Consumption"...something I have a big problem with! If you take high G turns all the oil can end up in the top end of one side! The ls1/ls6 has a re-designed better PCV system to help alleviate this. Plus the tons of power you can get outta one! Given the choice I'd go LS1. LT1 may take more abuse (i.e. allow you to do stupid stuff for a short time like a 400+ shot of nitrous hehe) In the end, if it kills the aluminum block, it'll probably take out the cast iron block too...jsut not as violantly. The aluminum is *much* lighter, and the LS1/LS6 is just a *MUCH* better designed motor! If you can get it, do it, you won't be sorry!Corry
------------------
Corry Lazarowitz
clazarow@voicenet.com
clazarowitz@hotmail.com
1987 Pontiac Trans AM (GTA?) 350 or is it a 305?! TPI
SLP 1 3/4" headers, 3" cat back (stock cat

MSD ignition.
MSD Blaster SS coil.
3.73 Rear end gears
Accell 8.8 Wires
Bosh +4 Spark Plugs (Don't know if they really help but hell!)
Holley AFPR
Race Built Automatic trans ('vette servo, shift kit, tightly packed clutches)--just needs titanium gears now!

Newly gutted cat (the car gutted it's own cat!)
Hypertech Chip (Just found out I had it! :eek
More soon when funds are avail...
ok, i know how to yank a motor.
but i see how much wiring comes with the motor. how hard is it to install that part for a newbie.
thnx,
Oh and for LT1.
Ls1 i agree i think ive heard it has good stuff. but.
LT1 has been around so wont parts be cheaper and more numerous?
and children, behave no yelling, or im turning this car right back around.
but i see how much wiring comes with the motor. how hard is it to install that part for a newbie.
thnx,
Oh and for LT1.
Ls1 i agree i think ive heard it has good stuff. but.
LT1 has been around so wont parts be cheaper and more numerous?
and children, behave no yelling, or im turning this car right back around.
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 669
Likes: 0
From: Red Bud, Illinois
Car: 1989 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: Pro-Built 700R4 2400 ACT Stall
Axle/Gears: 2.77 Borg Warner 9-Bolt
Honestly, i would go for the LT1 due to less fabrication. But if it's power out of a stock short block you want, the LS1 is where to go. The guys on LS1.com are running 550 horses on the stock crank and rods. Now tell me that's not a marvel of engineering especially for a factory car. (Note: They do have heads/cam/LS6 Intake with various other modifications)
Edit: If you go over there and ask what it is that they screw up before the crank and rods they'll probably say the rear end or the push rods.
------------------
89 IROC-Z 350 TPI
-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes
[This message has been edited by branz28 (edited June 16, 2001).]
Edit: If you go over there and ask what it is that they screw up before the crank and rods they'll probably say the rear end or the push rods.
------------------
89 IROC-Z 350 TPI
-Flowmaster Catback
-Performance Resource Chip
-700R4 (Rebuilt) Too much done to actually list
-K&N Airfilters
-Ported Plenum
-2.77 Gears (not much to brag about but eh, its there)
-MSD 8.5 mm plug wires
-Gutted cat
-!AIR
-Gutted Air Boxes
[This message has been edited by branz28 (edited June 16, 2001).]
Elevario,
Excuse me for a moment while I perform some administrivia....
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StormShadow,
I agree with your assessment. The LT1/4 probably has more power potnetial than the LS1/6 based on the potential displacement. But out of the box, the LS1 does perform better than a stock LT1/4.
That aside, Tone it down a little! We're all friends here. We just have some differing opinions and experiences. Keep the flaming for the Gelding drivers, please.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
RB,
Yes, the LT1 is more of a direct swap. And yes, I've had my share of experiences with the OptiScrap distributors. Keep a positive perspective - it's a great excuse to replace the cam since you're that close...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
O.K., Elev - back to you.
Lots of varied advice, I know. I'll give you another opinion, so take it as just that - an opinion.
It depends on what you want from the car. If you want a realatively stock car and don't plan a lot of mods or runs at the track, the LS1 is an excellent package. It will make a very nice package for street driving, offering plenty of power and decent fuel efficiency. If you ever plan to build to run at the track, forget the LS1/6 or even the LT1. Get a nice 'F' car body with a V-6, and start hunting for a different engine entirely.
The LS1 engine will require a lot of work and cash to get modified much beyond 450 HP. The LT1/4 can be massaged for a little more power than that before it gets cost-prohibitive. If you can be happy with 10s without charging, it might be a good selection. If you want seven seconds without a blower, the LS1 is a waste of cash. For the same of less work and money, you can prep and install a really nice 535CID aluminum big block. It has an aluminum case like the LS1 using the same "new-technology" silicon aluminum castings (if you call 1971 "new"), a single cam like the LS1, just not hollow, valves that will suck the entire intake of the LS1 through in one gulp, stroke that will crush the LS1 bottom end in one engine cycle, and it won't require an electronics engineering team from MIT to adapt to heavy modification in your car.
Call me old-school, but there is still no replacement for displacement. Anything you can do to the little engine I can do better with a Mk IV basis. Go ahead - prove me wrong. You all know that if there were no displacement restriction in auto racing, everyone would be running at least 700 cubes and these wimpy 4-liter, 220 MPH F1 cars would be "slow". Sorry, but I get really pissed over the concept of forcing a smaller engine to produce more power then expecting any longevity. That's probably while you'll never see a 3.0 liter Honda-powered Western Star tractor hauling a 180,000 pound triple through the mountains. DUH!
Let's score this inning:
* Same aluminum, but 80 pounds heavier;
* Almost 200 more cubes to "adapt and enhance" as you prefer;
* Cheaper to buy, build, repair, and install;
* Exponentially more torque than an LS1/6 has in its best wet dream;
* Proven parts and technology;
* Much better response to a blower or charger;
* Potential for 3,000 HP with the right induction system and fuel.
While the LS1/6 is a good design, it's case size is going to be a limiting factor. No one has found the full potnetial of the engine yet, and it's a pretty nifty little package, but I'm certain it won't be anywhere near 3,000 HP. When I see a four-second LS1/6 car, I'll review my opinion.
Like I said - just my opinion.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
Excuse me for a moment while I perform some administrivia....
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
StormShadow,
I agree with your assessment. The LT1/4 probably has more power potnetial than the LS1/6 based on the potential displacement. But out of the box, the LS1 does perform better than a stock LT1/4.
That aside, Tone it down a little! We're all friends here. We just have some differing opinions and experiences. Keep the flaming for the Gelding drivers, please.
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
RB,
Yes, the LT1 is more of a direct swap. And yes, I've had my share of experiences with the OptiScrap distributors. Keep a positive perspective - it's a great excuse to replace the cam since you're that close...
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
O.K., Elev - back to you.
Lots of varied advice, I know. I'll give you another opinion, so take it as just that - an opinion.
It depends on what you want from the car. If you want a realatively stock car and don't plan a lot of mods or runs at the track, the LS1 is an excellent package. It will make a very nice package for street driving, offering plenty of power and decent fuel efficiency. If you ever plan to build to run at the track, forget the LS1/6 or even the LT1. Get a nice 'F' car body with a V-6, and start hunting for a different engine entirely.
The LS1 engine will require a lot of work and cash to get modified much beyond 450 HP. The LT1/4 can be massaged for a little more power than that before it gets cost-prohibitive. If you can be happy with 10s without charging, it might be a good selection. If you want seven seconds without a blower, the LS1 is a waste of cash. For the same of less work and money, you can prep and install a really nice 535CID aluminum big block. It has an aluminum case like the LS1 using the same "new-technology" silicon aluminum castings (if you call 1971 "new"), a single cam like the LS1, just not hollow, valves that will suck the entire intake of the LS1 through in one gulp, stroke that will crush the LS1 bottom end in one engine cycle, and it won't require an electronics engineering team from MIT to adapt to heavy modification in your car.
Call me old-school, but there is still no replacement for displacement. Anything you can do to the little engine I can do better with a Mk IV basis. Go ahead - prove me wrong. You all know that if there were no displacement restriction in auto racing, everyone would be running at least 700 cubes and these wimpy 4-liter, 220 MPH F1 cars would be "slow". Sorry, but I get really pissed over the concept of forcing a smaller engine to produce more power then expecting any longevity. That's probably while you'll never see a 3.0 liter Honda-powered Western Star tractor hauling a 180,000 pound triple through the mountains. DUH!
Let's score this inning:
* Same aluminum, but 80 pounds heavier;
* Almost 200 more cubes to "adapt and enhance" as you prefer;
* Cheaper to buy, build, repair, and install;
* Exponentially more torque than an LS1/6 has in its best wet dream;
* Proven parts and technology;
* Much better response to a blower or charger;
* Potential for 3,000 HP with the right induction system and fuel.
While the LS1/6 is a good design, it's case size is going to be a limiting factor. No one has found the full potnetial of the engine yet, and it's a pretty nifty little package, but I'm certain it won't be anywhere near 3,000 HP. When I see a four-second LS1/6 car, I'll review my opinion.
Like I said - just my opinion.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
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