Well, today I took the plunge and plopped the motor in the car. Unfortunatley, my Hooker 2322's are not cooperating. I am going to need to cut a hunk out of the K-member to make them fit, or I am going to have to suck it up and run weenie 2210's. (see picture 2) Nothing went right today. I had to pull the motor back out once when I realized there was a bushing pressed into the back of the crank which wasn't letting the torque converter to bolt down. Guess I shouldn't have skipped church this week cause *** wasn't helping me out!

 

One more for now. I don't want to use up thirdgen's resources.


I need to take material off the k-member in the blue. However, I probably don't need to take off as much as shown in the picture.

 

what the hell is that on tp of the intake never seen anything liek that before but good luck on your journey and keep us updated cant wat to see a 10sec timeslip il be happy to see an 11.5 in mine this summer

 

That thing on the intake is just a plate so I can hook the hoist to the engine. Thanks! 11.5 is a nasty street car!

 

Dude, am I seeing that right? Is that an ALUMINUM block or are my eyes playing tricks on me???

If so, I want some of YOUR toys! Stuff like that doesn't come cheap.

 

I ended up having to do the same thing on my k-member. I am running hedman LT's. I also had to grind on my a-arm.

Although new motor mounts might have helped with my k-member problem.

 

Ya, I ran across an aluminum block. The hard part is finding flexplates for internally balanced single piece rear seal cranks.



How did you go about this bluegrazz? Torch or plasma cutter? Sawzall? Heat it and beat it?

 

4" angle grinder. It did a good job, and It didnt heat the k-member up. I test fit it and then used a black sharpie marker to mark were I needed to grind. It took a couple of tries, but I wanted to remove the least amount as needed.

 

Whats wrong with the 2210 Hookers anyway?

Youll probably have to install an aftermarket tubular crossmember, just to keep the car safe, to keep the 1 7/8 headers.

 

I was hoping I wouldn't have to get a tubular k member, cause money is tight now. I'll see how much I have to cut out of the crossmember.

 

REALPOWER... more like REALFUNNY.

Looks like a stock block to me. Try again

 

Yeah, theres quite a bit of surface rust around the oil filter area...at least for an aluminum block.

 

Come on guys lighten up...That rattle can said that it contained 65% aluminum ...so in theory with the 5 coats of KRYLON its now an aluminum block...

And its extra rare because its the uheard of SBC 1 piece rear main seal aluminum block with absolutely No extra material so it can slip past tech....LOL

anyone believeing that block in the pic is aluminum please PM me... I have some "real" gold tpi heads Id like to sell you.>>>well as soon as the paint dries.. . and some pictures of bigfoot..LOL

 

A picture tells a thousand words....

 

congrats fellas, you get sarcasm. you think I have the money for an aluminum block?

 

theres no paint on the block

 

Got any pics of this beast kenwood?

PT88 Turbo, Dart Little M 406
Brodix Track 1 heads, Custom Solid Roller Cam, Turbo 400 with Brake, Moser Ford 9", custom rod end suspension, ARE Tube K-Member, EFPW Custom Roll Cage, PLUS much much more

 

you're busted and you want wood to prove what he has

 

"Ya, I ran across an aluminum block. The hard part is finding flexplates for internally balanced single piece rear seal cranks. "

all one piece rear seal factory cranks are internally balanced. the hard part would be finding an externally balanced one piece crank seal flex plate.

 

Pics specifically of what...Ive got tons of pics...a pic of what??? Block?Heads?CAGE?SUSPENSION?

There are pics of it splattered throughout the web.... most of the pics I have here are HIGH RES>>>thus too big to post on the site from work>>>but Ill try to do it from home..

 

Here is a picture of it in my car before I sold it to him. If you are trying to bring into question OUR credibility, GOOD F'N LUCK BUDDY. We have been around here long enough to have good names. Now go buy some kentucky chrome so you can spray your valve covers and win the next car show.

 

Wow, some people actually stretch the truth on the internet? It's ok though. It keeps it from getting boring. I am still waiting for thecrkid to kick in again!

 

for the car go to www.efpwperformance.com

sean's GTA...that shows a roughed out version of the car when the chassis was being done..

 

I suppose I assume the best too often, but there seems to be some unwarranted mudslinging going on here.

REAL started this thread talking about header to crossmember clearance. Damon asked whether the block was aluminum - REAL, lacking the tongue-in-cheek smilie that so many of us desire, responded to the affirmative - but not in a manner that could be properly intrepreted, necessarily, in 2d.

Now, maybe I'm still not "getting it", but requests for photos that followed were based on the tube K-member usage by Wood, not a calling-out. Correct?

At any rate, let's calm down and keep this a tech exchange resource, not turn it into a gradeschool playground.

 

No I am not judging anyone's credibility, so calm down. I guess I typed like I talk, which is sarcastically, and it couldnt be interpreted by text. Look at the rust on all of the machined parts of the block. Do you think I am that stupid?


Yes, I am looking for pictures of modified/ tubular K-members, so I can decide if I have to drop 1k on a new front end, or if I can modify mine.

 

Don't let your head get too big there guido.

 

Can you find me a 168 tooth internal balance single piece rear flexplate? In summit and jegs they don't really verify wheather it has a small bolt circle or large one. Are there 168 tooth large bolt circle flexplates? Are there 153 tooth small bolt circle flexplates?

 

What headers are those? I cant even find a part number for those but found one for 2323 for 82-92 camaro and it says this:

114) Will fit aluminum powerglide trans only.
115) Requires engine to be moved 1" to right side. Tilton or Hamburger type starter also required.

That 1" move to the right would probably get you past the problem you are currently having

 

Thanks for the serious reply. Where did you get this info from? THe only place that I can find hooker 2322 is on the actual headers, and in Jobber. Jobber dosn't describe these very well either. I do not believe the 1" move to the right will cure my problem as it needs about an inch of clearancing on both sides.

 

Dude I would honestly just buy a k-member....The tube K member I have would be EMPTY where the blue area is shaded on your pic....I cant get on yahoo photos from work BUT I believe I have a pic of my k-member with the motor OUT of the car where you can clearly see a before and after pic...stock versus aje... Ill look for it tonight..

 

tubular Kmember would be perfect then.

they just have a plate that the motor mounts bolt to. theres nothing sticking out the sides past it.

add 1"around to the dia. of the spring, and thats the size of the circle the top spring perch takes up.

alot of room in that area.

 

Can someone point me in the direction of a K-member that can use all the stock suspension pieces?

 

dp

 

there isnt one.

all of the tubular Kmembers require Tubular A arms...

if you get them both with spring purches, you can still use your stock springs.

 

That kinda doubles the price... Its gonna take me awhile to save for this. For now, I guess I am going to have to slice up the k member. What manufacturer do you guys reccommend? Spohn doesn't make one, and they are my main suspension people.

 

i have the ProFab one.. if you call them, and ask, the price drops down a couple hund.

i paid $350(plus shipping) for my whole Kmember and a arm setup, brand new.. mostly because i called and asked if the stock arms would work. they said yes. then when i had it in, i realized they wouldnt... so i got the arms for $150.

normally i wouldnt post the actual amount, but he kinda pissed me off by not shipping right away.. then sending me two passenger side arms... then when i got the drivers side arm, it had no ball joint.. i had to press out the one from the passenger arm and put it in the drivers arm.

but after all that, they still worked, and the price was right... they just had a serious shipping/logistics problem.
i think they've worked on it some since then, but expect shipping delays if you order from them.

 

Im going to raise the BS flag again here...

I have an AJE K-member>>>> STOCK a-arms, stock springs...

all works fits No problem. Not sure on other brands...

 

What say you just provide information others may not have instead?