Oxygen sensor replacement....
Oxygen sensor replacement....
I need to replace my oxygen sensors. I was wondering how many I would need and how much do they cost. Another thing I would like to know is about how much would a shop charge to install new oxygen sensors.
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- Red '91 Z-28 350
- 700-R4 Trans
- T-tops
- no major power
gaining mods, K&N
Filter, Flowmaster
exhaust -series 80-,
exhaust cut-outs - Best E.T. 15.0@93mph, Will improve that 1/4 mile time this spring.
- HardlinePerformance
Your car has one O2 sensor, located in the driver's side exahust manifold, right there it breaks away from the block and starts to go down to the bottom of the car. It's very easy to get to with a o2 sensor socket, a 1 foot extension, and a flex head ratchet.
I can't remember what I paid for a new o2 sensor, but they're cheap.
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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else
I can't remember what I paid for a new o2 sensor, but they're cheap.
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89 iroc-z 305 tbi
k&n filtercharger, open element air filter. nuffin' else
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From: Readsboro, VT
Car: 85 IROC-Z / 88 GTA
Engine: 403 LSx (Pending) / 355 Tuned Port
Transmission: T56 Magnum (Pending) / T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42 / ?
I don't like using an O2 sensor socket. Removing the original one can be a bear sometimes, and the O2 sensor sockets can deflect because of the slot. I prefer to cut off the wire and use a deep socket, or the closed end of a wrench, although with a 12 point closed end, you still gotta be careful.
Reinstalling the new one can be done easily with the closed end of a wrench, because you don't want to tighten the snot out of it anyway. As long as it's good and tight, and the ring sealed, you're set.
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The IROC Homepage
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Reinstalling the new one can be done easily with the closed end of a wrench, because you don't want to tighten the snot out of it anyway. As long as it's good and tight, and the ring sealed, you're set.
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The IROC Homepage
<A HREF="http://www.rit.edu/~jli4307/camaro" TARGET=_blank>
View the restoration of an 85 IROC</A>
"I didn't know a bored out Ford could go so slow" -Shenandoah
Supreme Member
Joined: Mar 2000
Posts: 13,414
Likes: 6
From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
I agree with Jim; I've had that oxy sensor socket deflect and "lock on" two oxygen sensors already. I pawned the special socket off on my friend, and went back to cutting the wire off and using a deep socket.
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!
Let me give you a piece of advice - soak the old O2 sensor in penetrating oil before you try to remove it. A few months back I got the bright idea to replace my O2 sensor as a preventative measure. Even though I soaked it, it still wouldn't come out. I ended up stripping the threads and making a real mess. Eventually, I had to tap out the hole and use an entirely different O2 sensor (with the same spec, but larger diameter).
Be careful and learn from my mistakes.
Be careful and learn from my mistakes.
You can get the O2 sensor with a crow's foot and an extension. It costs about $25 from NAPA, and $50 from the dealer.
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With this car, it's never a question of "can I...", only "will I..."!
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With this car, it's never a question of "can I...", only "will I..."!
Cutting the wire off and using a 6-point 7/8" deep socket seems to be the way to go, especially considering that Craftsman has a lifetime warrenty on their sockets (not the O2 socket they sell). Some guys say they can do it with the closed end of a wrench reached from underneath, an option I've never tried. That's also an excellent idea (provided there's enough room).
That said, I'll share my experience of removing this sensor.
The O2 sockets I saw at the some of the parts stores (PEP BOYS, SEARS, etc.) looked rinky-dink (low quality) IMO. The sockets had a wall thickness A LOT thinner than the socket I got from NAPA. The cheaper sockets were about $7-9 if I remember, and the NAPA one was $24 (SEP 00). I knew that this part is often difficult to remove, so I got the beefer socket from NAPA. I think this is an example of "you get what you pay for".
The only reason I didn't just use a deep socket was because I thought I would need the torque of this socket to reinstall the new one, and didn't know about being able to reach it with an open end wrench from below (two strikes against me).
Before removing the O2 sensor I saturated it in penetrating oil at least once a day for a week. I wanted it to "live" in penetrating oil until "THE day" arrived.
Even with ~91K miles on it, it came out easily.
While it may have come out easily without the penetrating oil (sometimes this happens), I mention it because I've had great success using this technique for removing rusted on parts that I thought would give me trouble.
Regarding the last part of your question. I consider changing the O2 sensor right up there with changing the oil or sparkplugs. Use the advise given in this thread - penetrating oil, 7/8" deep socket and extension(s) or open end wrench if you can access it from below.
Mine was $24 from NAPA late last year.
[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 16, 2001).]
That said, I'll share my experience of removing this sensor.
The O2 sockets I saw at the some of the parts stores (PEP BOYS, SEARS, etc.) looked rinky-dink (low quality) IMO. The sockets had a wall thickness A LOT thinner than the socket I got from NAPA. The cheaper sockets were about $7-9 if I remember, and the NAPA one was $24 (SEP 00). I knew that this part is often difficult to remove, so I got the beefer socket from NAPA. I think this is an example of "you get what you pay for".
The only reason I didn't just use a deep socket was because I thought I would need the torque of this socket to reinstall the new one, and didn't know about being able to reach it with an open end wrench from below (two strikes against me).
Before removing the O2 sensor I saturated it in penetrating oil at least once a day for a week. I wanted it to "live" in penetrating oil until "THE day" arrived.
Even with ~91K miles on it, it came out easily.
While it may have come out easily without the penetrating oil (sometimes this happens), I mention it because I've had great success using this technique for removing rusted on parts that I thought would give me trouble.
Regarding the last part of your question. I consider changing the O2 sensor right up there with changing the oil or sparkplugs. Use the advise given in this thread - penetrating oil, 7/8" deep socket and extension(s) or open end wrench if you can access it from below.
Mine was $24 from NAPA late last year.
[This message has been edited by Stuart Moss (edited June 16, 2001).]
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When I replaced mine about a month ago, I used the Oxygen sensor socket. I tried using a wrench, but the flange that the exhaust manifold connects to the y pipe seemed to only give me about 1/8" of rotation, and not nearly enough torque to break it loose.. I used a couple extensions and a ratchet and it came out very easily.. Then I took the Oxygen sensor socket back to where I got it from.. I'll buy it again the next time i need it..
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 223
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From: Oklahoma City, USA
Car: 89 IROC
Engine: Yes
Transmission: That, too.
It may also make the job easier if the exhaust pipes are warm when you do the job. Just go for a short drive before jacking the car up. Don't get the exhaust too hot, or you'll burn your paws.
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