Last year I had a problem of having rubber from the drag strip fly up during my burnout and stick to the rear quater panels. It was a pain to get it off and some of it was realy stained in there. How can I prevent this besides using that Burnout Guard stuff and mud flaps? Any ideas? Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

------------------
1984 Camaro Sport Coupe - 73K Miles, Rebuilt 355 TPI L98, Crane 2032 CompuCam - 214/220 @ .050", Crane adjustible fuel pressure regulator, custom burned PROM, stock TPI intake, gutted air box with K&N filters
F41 Suspension Package, 700R4 Tranny, TCI Breakaway torque converter, 3.27 Disc Brake Posi Rear
Hooker Shorty Headers, Catco High-Flow 3" Cat, Flowmaster 3" American Thunder Cat-Back
New Paint
Best 1/4 Mile Run (with old LG4 motor):
16.760 @ 80.74 MPH

Coming Soon:
Aluminum Drive Shaft

 

A friend of mine used Baby Oil and it worked fine. Just put it on a rag, then wipe it onto the area behind the wheels. The nice thing about Baby Oil is that it's actually mineral oil w/ fragrance. Almost as potent as mineral spirits.

------------------
92 RS w/t-tops 305 TBI Auto.
170K miles and don't burn a drop o'oil
-K&N Truck filter #1500 w, open ele.
air cleaner
-Dynomax 2 1/2" cat-back
-B&M TransPak
-Jet Stage2 Chip
-180* T-Stat w/ 185* Fan Switch
-JVC CD--Alpine speakers & 4ch. amp
Rockford 2ch. to 2 MTX 12" subs

 

Seems like it could work, but I would rather prevent it from happening. Would masking tape be bad for the paint? My car just got painted a few months ago. Thanks.

 

vaseline is the best. It goes on thick, rubs off easy, and you'll always have it on hand if you feel like screwing someone

------------------
Mike L.

"If it feels good - stay in it "

1987 IROC Z TPI 350 A4 3.27 Borg-Warner.

Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog

http://www.MichaelLasiuta.home.att.net

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

[This message has been edited by IROC5.7TPI (edited June 19, 2001).]

 

Try a spray-on cooking oil behind the rear wheel openings before you make your runs. It can help the cleanup, but make sure you get all of it off when you wash.

If you just got your car painted, I wouldn't advise applying anything to the surface. Allow a couple of months for a full cure. As soon as you can wax the surface, you can apply the oil to prevent the adhesion of the rubber frags.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

Try Not Doing A burnout on Radials, and Maybe You can run faster than 16's


j/k


Unless your runnig fullon slicks, You shouldnt be doing anymore than a quick spin-clean.



------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver 15.26 @ 87.0
Reader's ride -> My Ride

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

i saw some guy at the track that had car wax on the quarter panels.. might wanna try that.

 

I meant to put it on before, not after. It worked for him. Sorry for not making that clear.

 

There's a product out that's designed to protect the front against stone chips that would work perfect. It's a self adhesive clear plastic film that is easily removed without damaging the paint. It comes in fairly large sheets since it's designed to protect the whole front of a car, all you'd have to do is cut a few appropriate size pieces to stick behind your rear wheels. Try checking your local auto parts stores for that...

 

Take a look at the round-a-round boys pit areas, you'll always see a bottle a BabyOil for the track and rubber debris. Wipe on the soon to be affected area, then at the end of the night take a clean soft cloth and wipe it and all the gunk off.

 

Bort, the 16s were on the old motor, thank goodness. I didn't do any big burnouts in the box; I mostly got the crap onto my car from just starting my actual run.

My car got painted back in January. I have already waxed it twice. So will Vaseline really work?

------------------
1984 Camaro Sport Coupe - 73K Miles, Rebuilt 355 TPI L98, Crane 2032 CompuCam - 214/220 @ .050", Crane adjustable fuel pressure regulator, custom burned PROM, stock TPI intake, gutted air box with K&N filters
F41 Suspension Package, 700R4 Tranny, TCI Breakaway torque converter, 3.27 Disc Brake Posi Rear
Hooker Shorty Headers, Catco High-Flow 3" Cat, Flowmaster 3" American Thunder Cat-Back
New Paint
Best 1/4 Mile Run (with old LG4 motor):
16.760 @ 80.74 MPH

Coming Soon:
Aluminum Drive Shaft

 

Geddex makes a product called Burnout Guard.. It keeps the hot rubber from sticking to the body.. Cool thing is, after a day at the track all you need to do is wash it off.. I think it's like $10.00 a bottle (Spray bottle).. I know Next Generation carries it, but not sure who else..

------------------
'83 Trans Am

-Modified LG4 305
-Flowmaster 80 Series
-Holly HotShot air filter
-Edelbrock 1406 600cfm
-Performer Intake
-Sealed Power Cam
Plus many more.....

13.49 @ 107.08