Anyone have any idea if you can use poly locks on non-roller rockers? Need an answer
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Joined: Apr 2003
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Anyone have any idea if you can use poly locks on non-roller rockers? Need an answer
Im kinda ticked right now because I ordered some comp magnum roller tip rockers from thunderracing and the guy told me these would come with poly locks. Well I get them today and they come with the regular spacer thing and the ****ty nuts. So that pist me off, I hate ****en adjusting valves using the TDC way, I like to do it with the engine running and these damn nuts wont let me. I have a set of 16 poly locks I could use, can I use these on these rockers?
I wanna use the car tomorrow and its been dormant for about 2 weeks now and I can't drive it because my old rockers got chewed up. Anyone know please?
I wanna use the car tomorrow and its been dormant for about 2 weeks now and I can't drive it because my old rockers got chewed up. Anyone know please?
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Joined: Jan 2005
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From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
The spacer-this is the pivot ball? I see no reason why not. I've used poly locks on stock rockers. I got tired of them backing off too. Just check for any interference between rocker body and nut. I wouldn't forsee any problems as long as no interference with poly locks hitting valve cover.
Pasky, You can use the poly locks on your regular styled rockers, but you might not be able to use them on your rocker studs. On the cheaper studs (factory and cheap screw in), the top surface of the stud isnt machined flat, it is domed. If you have studs like this, you arent supposed to use them, because they cant lock right on them. I dont guess anything could stop you from "machining" them yourself, but that is just what they recommend when you call them. I went down this road once for a rocker that wouldn't quit loosening. I finally double nutted it and used some loctite.
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Joined: Apr 2003
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Car: 1991 RS Camaro (Jet Black)
Engine: 95 383 CI (6.3) LT1
Transmission: 95 T-56
Well the thing is with these spacers or you called them pivot *****? Is that I don't think my damn poly's are tall enough. I've used poly locks on these studs just dandy but my other roller rockers that got chewed also sat a little higher so their was less stud to screw on. Im just so *** damn pist at thunderracing right now, i'd call them up and bitch them out if they were open
. Any easy way to adjust these fricken rockers while the engine is running. I tried putting them to where there is some slack in the pushrod and tried to start the car but it didn't want to turn over, as if the push rod was gonna bend if I kept turning the car so I took a nice big brick and chunked it at a wall.
. I hate this ****.
. Any easy way to adjust these fricken rockers while the engine is running. I tried putting them to where there is some slack in the pushrod and tried to start the car but it didn't want to turn over, as if the push rod was gonna bend if I kept turning the car so I took a nice big brick and chunked it at a wall.
. I hate this ****. Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2003
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From: Carson City Nevada
Car: 86 coupe
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt 3.27 posi
chill bro!just adjust the exhaust valves while the intakes are full open,and same with the intakes.
spinn the pushrod while tightening the adjusting nut,when you get to the point where the pushrod just stops,add 1/8 turn preload.that should get her running.
when she's all warmed up and running,back off each nut till you hear it clatter,then tighten till the clatter just stops.then slowly tighten 1/4 turn more.don't forget to replace all the oil you're gonna lose!keep idle rpm low if you can adjust it,and there are clips that go over the oil hole in a stock style rocker to deflect the ensuing oil bath you and your engine are about to recieve.get the stamped ones,not the wire ones.
by the way,this is a hydraulic cam isn't it?
Eric
spinn the pushrod while tightening the adjusting nut,when you get to the point where the pushrod just stops,add 1/8 turn preload.that should get her running.
when she's all warmed up and running,back off each nut till you hear it clatter,then tighten till the clatter just stops.then slowly tighten 1/4 turn more.don't forget to replace all the oil you're gonna lose!keep idle rpm low if you can adjust it,and there are clips that go over the oil hole in a stock style rocker to deflect the ensuing oil bath you and your engine are about to recieve.get the stamped ones,not the wire ones.
by the way,this is a hydraulic cam isn't it?
Eric
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From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
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Yes you can use Poly-Locks on any rockers you want to.
However, it would work better to just go to GM, and get some new stock nuts; and then go to the hardware store and get 16 regular 3/8"-24 nuts, and use them as jam nuts on top of the regular lock nuts.
You can adjust them with the engine running, if you use a very thin-walled socket.
However, it would work better to just go to GM, and get some new stock nuts; and then go to the hardware store and get 16 regular 3/8"-24 nuts, and use them as jam nuts on top of the regular lock nuts.
You can adjust them with the engine running, if you use a very thin-walled socket.
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Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 1,768
Likes: 2
From: Gambrills, Md
Car: clapped out 84Z
Engine: 355 efi roller
Transmission: tremec TKO
Originally posted by pasky
Well the thing is with these spacers or you called them pivot *****? Is that I don't think my damn poly's are tall enough. I've used poly locks on these studs just dandy but my other roller rockers that got chewed also sat a little higher so their was less stud to screw on.
Well the thing is with these spacers or you called them pivot *****? Is that I don't think my damn poly's are tall enough. I've used poly locks on these studs just dandy but my other roller rockers that got chewed also sat a little higher so their was less stud to screw on.
I remember that the stock nuts are really tight to the body of the rocker, and I had to grind down the sides of a deepwell socket to get it not to hit the rocker when adjusting lash with engine running. Why not try and set lash with engine off.
Like 85 said, Crane Kool Nuts are what you want. That's what I use with my stamped steel rockers. They're plenty wide to cover the entire top surface of the pivot ball and have a lock nut that will work with stock studs that aren't machined flat on top and are the right length for these types of applications/rockers.
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