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New to the board....ignition switch problem?

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Old Jun 22, 2001 | 07:09 PM
  #1  
NotA3rdGen's Avatar
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From: Texas
New to the board....ignition switch problem?

Hi all new to the board here (not new to f-cars though). Now the for the question, lately i've been having alot of problems w/ my ignition and i don't know if i should replace the tumbler or the switch under the dash. Sometimes i will turn the key and it will not do anything then on the second try it will start and other times i have a really hard time turning the key at all. Also i have never been able to turn it to the 'accessory' position since i bought the car. So what do you guys think tumbler or the switch??

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Stock 88 305 TBi firebird

Purple Pearl 94 Formula A4, Accel 300+ ignition, Accel wires, FlowMaster catback, MAC headers, K&N FIPK. Jamex springs, KYB AGX shocks. IRS LCA's and PHR. B&M tranny cooler, Transgo shift kit. Enkei 'Win' wheels.

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Old Jun 23, 2001 | 07:16 AM
  #2  
ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
i'd replace the key switch cylinder, or tumbler as you call it. have you tried another key, they wear too.

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ICON Motorsports
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MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM
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Old Jun 23, 2001 | 09:15 AM
  #3  
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From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Go to the hardware store and buy a 2 dollar tube of lock graphite. Hop behind the wheel and put a towel in your lap. Take the key out and squeeze the graphite around the ring cylinder and into the keyhole.

Work the key in and out, re-graphite and repeat. Then turn the cylinder on and off, re-graphite and repeat.

You would be amazed at what this may fix.
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Old Jun 23, 2001 | 01:26 PM
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From: Texas
I'll try the graphite trick first....if that doesn't work i guess i'll replace the key thinger. Thanks guys.

------------------

Stock 88 305 TBi firebird

Purple Pearl 94 Formula A4, Accel 300+ ignition, Accel wires, FlowMaster catback, MAC headers, K&N FIPK. Jamex springs, KYB AGX shocks. IRS LCA's and PHR. B&M tranny cooler, Transgo shift kit. Enkei 'Win' wheels.

Pic of my car

My home page
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Old Jun 23, 2001 | 05:29 PM
  #5  
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NA3G,

You may have a problem with the rack gear and/or linkage in the column:




When you get this far, you might want to know what you're up against:



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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

[This message has been edited by Vader (edited June 23, 2001).]
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Old Jun 23, 2001 | 11:37 PM
  #6  
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From: Texas
Ok i didn't have any graphite but i did spray some silicone lubricant in there. And now it comes on the way it should. Doesn't get stuck anymore . It still doesn't turn to the accessory position though.

Vader: Thanks for scareing the hell out of me with those diagrams!!! I wanted to check out the rack/gear but i don't think i'm going to attempt it now. Last time i messed around w/ that many parts i tore up my tranny.

------------------

Stock 88 305 TBi firebird

Purple Pearl 94 Formula A4, Accel 300+ ignition, Accel wires, FlowMaster catback, MAC headers, K&N FIPK. Jamex springs, KYB AGX shocks. IRS LCA's and PHR. B&M tranny cooler, Transgo shift kit. Enkei 'Win' wheels.

Pic of my car

My home page
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Old Jun 24, 2001 | 10:47 AM
  #7  
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From: Portales, NM USA
Car: 86 T/A
Engine: 5.0 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
OK.... now I don't mean to "scare the hell outta' you" but get some cleaner like a contact cleaner or such and spray that in there to clean out the silicone and air dry with a air gun. Then get the graphite and shoot in there after allowing for total drying.

What you are getting is a temporary fix that shows that "lack of lube" was the problem, however silicone is definitely the wrong lube and so is WD-40 even though both will give the false impression that your prob is fixed. It will gum up shortly and also attract dirt, etc. That's why graphite powder for locks is dry.
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Old Jun 24, 2001 | 11:33 AM
  #8  
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From: Texas
wonderful!
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Old Jun 24, 2001 | 12:21 PM
  #9  
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Just don't puff in the graphite while wearing your Sunday best. Take Mike's advice and place an old bath towel, newspaper, etc. in your lap and under the lock cylinder before shooting the graphite at the cylinder.

He is absolutely correct - WD40 is not a good lubricant, and graphite is the lube of choice for locksmiths who don't like "rework". WD40 isn't even recommended to lube latches and hinges (except by them). GM requires engine oil for hinges and latches since it doesn't dissolve and wash away all the lubricant that is present (like WD40 or silicone sprays). Save that stuff for loosening rusty bolts, please.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader
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Old Jun 24, 2001 | 05:34 PM
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I had the same problem and it quickly accelerated to where I couldn't start the car sometimes to where I couldn't shut the car off and that wasn't any fun so I just got the whole key cylinder and replaced it and that problem went away.
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