Just for fun I did a search on hydrogen on ebay and found this:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...tem=5749442786

I'm sceptical, sounds scam-ish the way it's written and all, but the guy seems to sell almost nothing else and is atleast delivering his equipment to people who have bought it(wether it works or not,*shrug*), gonna contact some of the people who have bought it and see if this thing actually worked or not.

I'm wondering if this could actually work or not, the principle of the unit is that it uses electrolysis to generate small amounts of hydrogen in the car which is then mixed in with the gasoline to increase mileage.

I'm not sure if you can burn hydrogen and gasoline at the same time without problems, I'm also not sure if a cars generator could provide enough hydrogen to create enough hydrogen, like say the 105amp version in m GTA,
I know this would have been utterly fake if the guy claimed it could run on water alone which was converted to hydrogen on the fly, but it only claims to add small amounts of hydrogen to the mixture so less gasoline will be burnt and hence improving mileage so I am not sure and I felt that maybe the engine-sawy people here might know for certain.

Also this is interesting and does look very legit, I'm keeping tabs on it:
http://www.unitednuclear.com/h2.htm

 

Another thing, my real username here is HisDivineShadow but I've forgotten my password and the e-mail I have on file here is no longer working so I can't get to my old account either

 

The hydro boost. I had posted something before for someone, but I can't find the thread. :shrug:

http://www.fortunecity.com/greenfield/bp/16/hboost.htm

IIRC this guy had something to do with it...

http://freeenergynews.com/Directory/...rney/cracking/

 

Why don't you buy one and let us know how it works, my guess is that it doesn't do squat. It would take a huge amout of current (more than your alternator makes) to make enough hydrogen to affect the MPG by any amount, then with the alternator being worked so hard it would use even more fuel just to turn it. No way could it double mileage. I don't believe this will work but I am a big believer in switching over to hydrogen for all of our power needs.

 

Never tried it, I'm too lazy to build one, however, a note of caution, that man is NOT the originator, and is obviously a complete moron. If anyone does get this, DO NOT USE STAINLESS STEEL AS YOUR LEADS!!!!!

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Many people using the electrolysis method for rust reduction swear by stainless steel, stating (incorrectly) that it's not consumed, stays clean and seems safe.
Stainless steel is indeed consumed when used in the electrolysis process, although slowly. The main problem with using it is the hazardous waste it produces. Stainless steel contains chromium. The electrodes, and thus the chromium is consumed, and you end up with poisonous chromates in your electrolyte. Dumping these on the ground or down the drain is illegal. The compounds can cause severe skin problems and ultimately, cancer. Hexavalent chromate is poisonous. These compounds are not excused from hazardous waste regulations where household wastes are.
These compounds are bad enough that government regulations mandate "elimination of hexavalent chromate by 2007 for corrosion protection."

Does your electrolyte turn yellow? That's a sign of chromates.

If you have been using stainless steel for the anodes (positive electrodes), wear rubber gloves when working with or near the liquids. If you need to dispose of it, allow it to evaporate into powders and dispose of the powders in sealed containers during your local "hazardous waste clean-up days".

Best bet - don't use stainless steel no matter how tempting it is.

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We use the method for rust 'removal' in cycle tanks. Same principle and same results on the toxic result.

 

the alternator doesn't get harder to turn the more it's worked (no more than it would be harder to turn any mass faster and faster). There are no clamps inside the alternator that would cause more friction to be induced that would make the pully harder to turn at any load. So, the leaching effect of the alternator is static, meaning no matter what load, you are leaching the same power from the engine, it's up to the alternator to either take advantage of that current or not. It's not like an ac pully, the alternator doesn't turn off and on or engage the shaft at will, it regulates the magnetic field that induces the current as needed. At least that's what I saw when I opened my CS-130 and rebuilt it.

That being said, load on the alternator creates heat, heat does leach power from the motor. Load on the alternator also decreases the power available to the rest of the car, but obviously, things like supercharges and turbos work on the principle that a little leaching can convert unused energy into energy that is far more available to use by the engine to make it go forward. So, you could think of this electrolysis tank as a form of electric supercharger. This is by no means a magic device here, it will produce some power, though i doubt it's worth the trouble since you would need a lot of water (weight and space) and you'd need to convert a lot of that to hydrogen (apparently you're just wasting the oxygen) to make back the energy you are using when the engine burns it, this means you have a limited use of this.

 

I just dont see how this is any better than using nitro. It's the same principle, nitro may not be able to be home brewed but it's a much lighter setup, has little, if any, leaching effect to operate and provides a much more reliable amount of fuel to the mixture for accurate AFR.

I'd also wonder if the gains this guy says he sees is simply due to lack of fuel to burn the amount of O2 in the air due to a bad O2 sensor / fp regulator etc. Technically, if your car is running as it should be, then the oxygen should be spent burning the fuel, there shouldn't be much left to do anything with hydrogen. So anyone seeing gains with this device, can likely see the same gains simply by tuning up their car and making sure it is running up to spec.

A supercharger or turbo are power adders that increase the O2 available and lets the fuel system dump more into the engine in the same space.
A nitrous system increases the oxygen available either in the fuel or in the air mixture so that the fuel system can dump more fuel into the engine.
See a patern here? There are more power adders, some that add more highly combustable fuels and such... but the thing is, you can't add power by simply providing the fuel if you dont also provide the agent used to combust it. Most of the time we're agent limited, meaning we're limited by the O2 available, that's why most of the power adders add oxygen.

Adding nitrogen without adding oxygen is pointless in a correctly operating engine, and the amount of oxygen produced by electrolysis is exactly 1/2 that of the hydrogen produced, is highly flammable and dangerous to keep in a quantity you'd need in reserve to make any sort of real use out of it. That's why people prefer to use nitrous to externally add oxygen, nitrous is non-flammable and stable at any sort of real world temp, it only breaks apart at the high temp inside the combustion chamber of the engine.

Sorry to continue to ramble on, but i'm sure we've seen quite a few products like this. The oxygen has to come from some where, and since it's not adding it itself, it must be due to a bad AFR or timing etc. To put it simply, the thing would only work if your engine wasn't working like it should.

 

While I am sceptical to that e-bay person I am not that sceptical to the article that was linked by RedDevil and I think it has merit.