What do they use to seal the adjusting screw on aftermarket AFPR like cranes and accels?

Do they use liquid teflon sealant or something else?

James

------------------
1985 Z-28 305 TPI
165 ECM,STB,SFC,GW "wonderbar"

 

I honestly didn't see anything sealing the threads on the crane.

 

Nothing is required to seal the adjusting screw. This is because the AFPR cap/spring/adjustor screw is ON TOP of the fuel pressure regulator diaphram. There is no fuel on top of the diaphram, therefore, no fuel in the cap of the AFPR.

------------------
KevinP92Z
92 Z28 383 SLP cam,SLP headers,SLP 2ontheLeft,Trick Flow TW heads & pistons,Edelbrock base,Accel SuperRam,52mmTB,Scat Crank & forged ConnRods,MSD 6AL,SLP convertor,Baer 13/12" Track,Moser axles,Hotchkis,Genuine GM 3.42s,SLP HD Torsen,17x9" chrome SS rims
96T/A w/SLP Ram Air,SLP 2ontheLeft, Bilsteins, Baer, Hotchkis, Genuine GM, Torsen
76 4X4 Blazer 400TPI project

 

what about the potential of a vacuum leak?

James

 

The fine-threaded screw is a tight enough fit to the cap threads that the potential for vacuum leak is pretty minimal.

If you wanted to prove it to yourself, attach a hand vaccum pump and put a slight vacuum (don't pull too much vacuum or damage to the diaphram could occur) on the fitting and perform a short leak test to assure yourself that the screw threads aren't leaking.

However, many use a drop of loctite 222 for keeping the screw from loosening on its own, but this also will help seal the threads a little more.

------------------
KevinP92Z
92 Z28 383 SLP cam,SLP headers,SLP 2ontheLeft,Trick Flow TW heads & pistons,Edelbrock base,Accel SuperRam,52mmTB,Scat Crank & forged ConnRods,MSD 6AL,SLP convertor,Baer 13/12" Track,Moser axles,Hotchkis,Genuine GM 3.42s,SLP HD Torsen,17x9" chrome SS rims
96T/A w/SLP Ram Air,SLP 2ontheLeft, Bilsteins, Baer, Hotchkis, Genuine GM, Torsen
76 4X4 Blazer 400TPI project

 

I used a small jam nut on the adjusting screw. This keeps the adjusting screw from moving once I set it, and also pre-loads the threads a bit to help seal it better.

 

another question: to gain acces the the fpr are you supposed to remove the plenum or the pass. side runner?

I plan on using vaders' article to make my own afpr.

James

 

I used regular ol' thread sealer for the threads, and I'm glad I did in case that diaphram ever ruptures. For the screw I used a small allen slug, (you can get them at any home hardware store), so I have no plenum interference issues, I just cut a 5/16 allen wrench down so that I can reach in there and adjust it in seconds. Hope this helps.

------------------
Kevin Irving
85 Trans Am WS-6, 305 TPI, custom burned '86 PROM with '87 "165"ECM, Accel Supercoil & 8.8 Wires, Rapidfire #2 @ .055", MSD 6AL, 1.6:1 Roller tipped rockers, Homemade AFPR, K&N cone, no airbox, Aluminum Driveshaft, Wonderbar, TB Coolant Bypass, Ported Plenum, Descreened MAF, Syclone Fuel Pump, JET Airfoil, Mobil 1 synth in all but transmission.

http://www.geocities.com/transam85tpi/

 

The AFPR are best changed with the plenum off. I say this because if your tool doesn't fit the security torx head just perfect, you'll have rounded heads real quick, which will require the plenumb out of the way anyway. If you alaready have changed the screws to another style head and can access them with the tools you have, then go ahead.

 

The crane regulator comes with the safety torx bit.