I have a wiring harness that I am fixing (melted) and I have to wire up about 60 connections.

I'm wondering if its ok to just use those crimp things that you buy in a bag and use a pair of pliers to squeeze shut on the connection?

THe wires are kind of under the dash board and I'm not great with a soldering iron, so I'm just wondering if there is any reliability problem with using a crimper.

Thanks
Rob

 

if you twist the wire and keep it clean w/shrink tube and silicone dielectric grease (to protect from moisture and corrosion) on each connection,it should last for years. don't do cheesy crimps like a tech at circuit city would do,make sure all the copper strands are there after you strip the insulation 1/4"-1/2" back,twist and crimp hard.the butt splices should match the gauge of the wire your crimping. don't buy butt splices from an auto store,you can get a package of 100 for $8 at a hardware store. do it right or don't do it at all.

[This message has been edited by junkyarddog (edited June 29, 2001).]

 

They are usually OK, if installed properly. Using a pair of pliers won't really get it. You can get good crimpers for fairly cheap at electrical type places; the most convenient one almost anywhere is Graybar. There's one of those in practically every town. Get the one made by AMP that has 2 crimp jaws on the end, and the strippers and cutter in the handle; don't get the one that has the strippers on the end. Get 2 Ideal T-strippers, the one with a red handle that covers from about 16 gauge to 22 gauge, and the one with a yellow handle that covers from about 10 to 18 gauge.

There are several sizes; using the correct size is important. Always use the smallest one that will fit on the wire. If possible, fold the wire back and crimp 2 layers of the wire, so that the connector is full.

Soldering is better, but you should be able to get it to be reliable with good attention to detail. Don't nick the wires when you strip them, make sure the wire is all the way into the barrel of the splice, etc.

Use the splices with the thin clear Nylon insulation rather than the thick opaque vinyl kind; that way you can actually see what you're doing. Graybar has those too. You'll need as many as three sizes: red for 18 gauge and smaller, blue for 14-18 gauge, yellow for 10 & 12 gauge.

Have fun!

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Thanks for the advice guys. I dont think we have any Graybar stores here in Virginia, but we have plenty of electrontics stores. I'll check around for one of those crimper/strippers. The one I have is pretty old and doesnt strip wires well because its dull.

Robert

 

Look in the phone book, I'd bet money there's a Graybar there. Or check www.graybar.com I don't think I've been in any town larger than about 40,000 anywhere in the country, that didn't have one. Their prices are better than typical electronics stores on stuff like that, and they usually have everything in stock.

 

Ok, I found one like 5 miles from my house. Ill check itout this weekend. Thanks,
Rob

 

Only bad thing about splicing at all - if they're all close to each other, your harness will be about 12" around! You could install a connector (60 pin or multiple smaller ones). That'll help keep the repair neat and orderly.

 

Strip, line splice, solder, shrink tubing. Just my opinion but the dissimilarity of the crimp connectors isn't a problem with AC signals and power circuits, but some of the low level DC signals used by the ECM are very sensitive to any circuit resistance.

As mentioned above, crimps can also get cumbersome and very "amateur" looking.

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Later,
Vader
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"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

In real tight areas and wires that are close together, I agree with vaders post.
However Im a big fan of Posi Lock connectors..you insert 2 wires on each end an twist them until its tight.
No other work needed and Ive never had problem fixing bad wires this way.
Only downside is theyre a litle oversized for wires that need to be very close to each other.
Summit racing sells this in a kit and theyre resuable and have man good charactersitics like high melting point, resistants to chemicals and etc.

Wires that I have crimped and connected before have pulled apart over time or came off...posi lock has yet to come off.




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1986 Vette Coupe,auto, alum. heads,40 over,crane cam,3.73 Gears,The usual Mods..
Had an 86 Bird before..want to get another F car again!

 

A soldering iron is only like $9 at radioshack. Just do that

 

Whenever I use those connectors if I'm using stranded wire I twist and solder the end to make it solid...then crimp it.

I agree with Vader on the ECM connections BUT if your going to do bulk connections also try staggering the wire connection points so you don't end up with 50 connectors all in one spot.

Buy one of those automatic wire strippers, it will be well worth it for your project and it gives consistent results without fraying the wires.

 

Tech's at Circut city are actually supposed to solder all of their connections. I'm a certified electronics installer and I use connectors for all of my installs, but in your case, I would solder and shrink wrap. If you're doing anything with any permanece, and especially if you're dealing with low current computor wires, soldering is the way to go. If you still decide to use connectors, try to use quality connectors like 3M's and make sure you use good crimpers. The ones sold at most parts stores that have built in strippers with different sized slots are garbage and make really poor crips. Try to get Kleins, Blue points or something similar. Check all of your connections by giving a little tug on the wire. Also, watch out for friends sneaking up behind you and yelling BZZZZ.

 

Soldering and shrink tubing is the way to go. Let the soldering iron get to full operating temp before proceeding and heat the wire connection with the tip of the iron and let the solder flow into the wire. Make sure to place the shrink tubing over the wire before you connect them. Just think how good you will be at soldering after doing it for 60 times!

 

99% of the time, I always solder & heat-shrink... but in that 1% where I can't, I use a non-insulated butt connector. After crimping the butt connector onto the wires, I use the soldering gun to fill the ends and center of the butt connector. Then I finish off with heat shrink.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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