3.0" crank w/ 6.0" rods
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Car: 91 RS (Black, T-top)
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3.0" crank w/ 6.0" rods
will a 3.0" crank work with 6.0" rods. the original rods are 5.94"... is there anyway to make it work with 6.0" rods? or is .06 too much of a difference?
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Im assuming that the 5.94" rods are from the Caprice too? And you are planning on using 6" rods instead? Assuming the 4.3 crank has the same journal size as the rods, they should work; the piston/deck "height" is what will offset any changes in stroke or rod length. It seems to me that a 302in.^3 piston for a 6" rod would work. I would definitely mock up the assembly and check/modify the deck height though.
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ok. then i'll just get the 5.94 connecting rods from the caprice too. the standard 4.030 pistons will work with those rods i assume.
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the standard 4.030 pistons will work with those rods i assume.
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Originally posted by paul_huryk
Isn't the 4.3L a V6 motor?
Isn't the 4.3L a V6 motor?
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Originally posted by formularpm
Depends what you mean by "standard" but probably not. A regular 3.48" stroke 350 piston probably will not work properly with a 3" stroke crank without taking half an inch off the deck height.
Depends what you mean by "standard" but probably not. A regular 3.48" stroke 350 piston probably will not work properly with a 3" stroke crank without taking half an inch off the deck height.
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The 5.94" rods will not need different pistons, unless the 265 v8s pistons are still attached. Any piston for a standard 5.7" rod with a 3.48" stroke will work fine. The reason is the compression height is the same on both a regular 350 piston and the baby LT1 4.3. If you take 1/2 the stroke, add the rod length the two lengths will be the same. 3.0/2= 1.5+5.94=7.44 then 3.48/2=1.74+5.7=7.44. Then you add in your compression height and how deep the piston is in the whole and they will be in the exact same place. It is the cheap way to build a 302, although I hope you have a 1 piece rear seal block. I helped build a 267 out of a 305 block , 4.3 crank and those 5.94"rods. the same way and the stock 305 piston worked just fine in this case.
Last edited by Fast355; 04-03-2005 at 10:54 AM.
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i take it your building a 302?
you HAVE to use the crank and rods from teh L99 engine (caprice 265 v8) with pistons for a 350 sbc w/ 5.7" rod.
heres how it works
the 350 has a 3.48 stroke, thats .24" longer at TDC then a 3.00 crank assuming both are using the same rods and pistons. so that means the piston wont hit TDC with a 3.0 crank and 5.7" rods UNLESS! and this works out perfect, you increase the rod length to 5.94", i think GM did this on purpose.
3.00" stroke
5.94" rod
350 pistons for 5.7" rod
it works out perfect. good luck with your build, i am going to be putting togther one of these in the future.
you HAVE to use the crank and rods from teh L99 engine (caprice 265 v8) with pistons for a 350 sbc w/ 5.7" rod.
heres how it works
the 350 has a 3.48 stroke, thats .24" longer at TDC then a 3.00 crank assuming both are using the same rods and pistons. so that means the piston wont hit TDC with a 3.0 crank and 5.7" rods UNLESS! and this works out perfect, you increase the rod length to 5.94", i think GM did this on purpose.
3.00" stroke
5.94" rod
350 pistons for 5.7" rod
it works out perfect. good luck with your build, i am going to be putting togther one of these in the future.
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Car: 91 RS (Black, T-top)
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Originally posted by Fast355
The 5.94" rods will not need different pistons, unless the 265 v8s pistons are still attached. Any piston for a standard 5.7" rod with a 3.48" stroke will work fine. The reason is the compression height is the same on both a regular 350 piston and the baby LT1 4.3. If you take 1/2 the stroke, add the rod length the two lengths will be the same. 3.0/2= 1.5+5.94=7.44 then 3.48/2=1.74+5.7=7.44. Then you add in your compression height and how deep the piston is in the whole and they will be in the exact same place. It is the cheap way to build a 302, although I hope you have a 1 piece rear seal block. I helped build a 267 out of a 305 block , 4.3 crank and those 5.94"rods. the same way and the stock 305 piston worked just fine in this case.
The 5.94" rods will not need different pistons, unless the 265 v8s pistons are still attached. Any piston for a standard 5.7" rod with a 3.48" stroke will work fine. The reason is the compression height is the same on both a regular 350 piston and the baby LT1 4.3. If you take 1/2 the stroke, add the rod length the two lengths will be the same. 3.0/2= 1.5+5.94=7.44 then 3.48/2=1.74+5.7=7.44. Then you add in your compression height and how deep the piston is in the whole and they will be in the exact same place. It is the cheap way to build a 302, although I hope you have a 1 piece rear seal block. I helped build a 267 out of a 305 block , 4.3 crank and those 5.94"rods. the same way and the stock 305 piston worked just fine in this case.
so how did the 305 react to the decrease in stroke? was it a lot more rev friendly?
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Just to warn you ahead of time, you are going to need either special light weight pistons or pay to have Malory metal added to the crank in order to balance the rotating assembly.
The 3.75" bore pistons from a 265 V8 will be considerably lighter than 4.030" standard replacement pistons. So be ready to pay for either one of those two things.
You may find the "uniqueness" quickly wears off once the $$$ runs thin.
The 3.75" bore pistons from a 265 V8 will be considerably lighter than 4.030" standard replacement pistons. So be ready to pay for either one of those two things.
You may find the "uniqueness" quickly wears off once the $$$ runs thin.
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Car: 91 RS (Black, T-top)
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Originally posted by AJ_92RS
Just to warn you ahead of time, you are going to need either special light weight pistons or pay to have Malory metal added to the crank in order to balance the rotating assembly.
The 3.75" bore pistons from a 265 V8 will be considerably lighter than 4.030" standard replacement pistons. So be ready to pay for either one of those two things.
You may find the "uniqueness" quickly wears off once the $$$ runs thin.
Just to warn you ahead of time, you are going to need either special light weight pistons or pay to have Malory metal added to the crank in order to balance the rotating assembly.
The 3.75" bore pistons from a 265 V8 will be considerably lighter than 4.030" standard replacement pistons. So be ready to pay for either one of those two things.
You may find the "uniqueness" quickly wears off once the $$$ runs thin.
Last edited by 91rs5.0; 04-04-2005 at 01:37 PM.
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Originally posted by my3rdgen
Does the 4.3 V8 (baby LT1) have a 3.00 inch stroke, or a 3.10?
Does the 4.3 V8 (baby LT1) have a 3.00 inch stroke, or a 3.10?
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A 350 crank core will cost you about $50.
$50 = 30-50 HP
That's likely to be somewhere between $1.00 and $1.60 per HP, depending on how you build the rest of the motor. Maybe even less than $1/HP, if you build a REALLY REALLY hot one.
That's the cheapest HP money can buy, BY FAR.
The decision to use that "free" crank won't look so good when you put it together and it's gutless and your "uniqueness" gets totally smoked by people with the same money or less in their stuff, and you realize that you just spent $2000 or whatever, on building this gutless motor; and the only way to fix it is to go buy that $50 core, and THEN re-spend about half of that $2000 all over again.
Think "big picture" instead of "cheapest I can get by with".
$50 = 30-50 HP
That's likely to be somewhere between $1.00 and $1.60 per HP, depending on how you build the rest of the motor. Maybe even less than $1/HP, if you build a REALLY REALLY hot one.
That's the cheapest HP money can buy, BY FAR.
The decision to use that "free" crank won't look so good when you put it together and it's gutless and your "uniqueness" gets totally smoked by people with the same money or less in their stuff, and you realize that you just spent $2000 or whatever, on building this gutless motor; and the only way to fix it is to go buy that $50 core, and THEN re-spend about half of that $2000 all over again.
Think "big picture" instead of "cheapest I can get by with".
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Originally posted by RB83L69
A 350 crank core will cost you about $50.
$50 = 30-50 HP
That's likely to be somewhere between $1.00 and $1.60 per HP, depending on how you build the rest of the motor. Maybe even less than $1/HP, if you build a REALLY REALLY hot one.
That's the cheapest HP money can buy, BY FAR.
The decision to use that "free" crank won't look so good when you put it together and it's gutless and your "uniqueness" gets totally smoked by people with the same money or less in their stuff, and you realize that you just spent $2000 or whatever, on building this gutless motor; and the only way to fix it is to go buy that $50 core, and THEN re-spend about half of that $2000 all over again.
Think "big picture" instead of "cheapest I can get by with".
A 350 crank core will cost you about $50.
$50 = 30-50 HP
That's likely to be somewhere between $1.00 and $1.60 per HP, depending on how you build the rest of the motor. Maybe even less than $1/HP, if you build a REALLY REALLY hot one.
That's the cheapest HP money can buy, BY FAR.
The decision to use that "free" crank won't look so good when you put it together and it's gutless and your "uniqueness" gets totally smoked by people with the same money or less in their stuff, and you realize that you just spent $2000 or whatever, on building this gutless motor; and the only way to fix it is to go buy that $50 core, and THEN re-spend about half of that $2000 all over again.
Think "big picture" instead of "cheapest I can get by with".
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I know what they're like, because I've had a 302 before. Probably before you were a gleam in your mama's eye; maybe even before she was a gleam in your grandma's eye. Built it just about like somebody with this "rev it to the moon" bit would do it; HUGE solid cam, big heads, 4-speed, the whole schmear. Yeah it screamed.... once I got it past 35 mh in 1st gear. Problem is, it took about 12 seconds to get to 35 mph. I got my a$$ handed to me by B210s and CVCCs and Pintos at stop lights.
Some things are so obvious they're easy to overlook. Which in this case is, more inches = more power if all else is equal. You can outsmart yourself all the way around this one, but in the end, it'll still be true.
All I'm trying to do, is to save you from turning your wallet upside-down over a bonfire.
Some things are so obvious they're easy to overlook. Which in this case is, more inches = more power if all else is equal. You can outsmart yourself all the way around this one, but in the end, it'll still be true.
All I'm trying to do, is to save you from turning your wallet upside-down over a bonfire.
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Originally posted by RB83L69
I know what they're like, because I've had a 302 before. Probably before you were a gleam in your mama's eye; maybe even before she was a gleam in your grandma's eye. Built it just about like somebody with this "rev it to the moon" bit would do it; HUGE solid cam, big heads, 4-speed, the whole schmear. Yeah it screamed.... once I got it past 35 mh in 1st gear. Problem is, it took about 12 seconds to get to 35 mph. I got my a$$ handed to me by B210s and CVCCs and Pintos at stop lights.
Some things are so obvious they're easy to overlook. Which in this case is, more inches = more power if all else is equal. You can outsmart yourself all the way around this one, but in the end, it'll still be true.
All I'm trying to do, is to save you from turning your wallet upside-down over a bonfire.
I know what they're like, because I've had a 302 before. Probably before you were a gleam in your mama's eye; maybe even before she was a gleam in your grandma's eye. Built it just about like somebody with this "rev it to the moon" bit would do it; HUGE solid cam, big heads, 4-speed, the whole schmear. Yeah it screamed.... once I got it past 35 mh in 1st gear. Problem is, it took about 12 seconds to get to 35 mph. I got my a$$ handed to me by B210s and CVCCs and Pintos at stop lights.
Some things are so obvious they're easy to overlook. Which in this case is, more inches = more power if all else is equal. You can outsmart yourself all the way around this one, but in the end, it'll still be true.
All I'm trying to do, is to save you from turning your wallet upside-down over a bonfire.
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since when are 302s "gutless"?
I hope you like tail lights, because you're going to be seeing alot of them soon. With an empty wallet. You won't even be able to buy a look at the front of another car in your rear-view mirror.
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Originally posted by RB83L69
And here I thought you wanted to hear some reality; instead, all you want is for some other inexperienced impressionable youngster to come along and help you ooooh and aaaaah over your idea. You're the type that's easily distracted by shiny things I guess. But that's OK, you can spend your money any way you like, it's none of my business. Heaven forbid that you should take advantage of someone else's knowledge they acquired the hard way, and would prefer to make all the mistakes yourself rather than listen to someone that's already made a few of them share how to avoid them. Not that there's anything wrong with that; doesn't affect me one way or the other; after all it's your money; it's just ..... well, stupid.
I hope you like tail lights, because you're going to be seeing alot of them soon. With an empty wallet. You won't even be able to buy a look at the front of another car in your rear-view mirror.
And here I thought you wanted to hear some reality; instead, all you want is for some other inexperienced impressionable youngster to come along and help you ooooh and aaaaah over your idea. You're the type that's easily distracted by shiny things I guess. But that's OK, you can spend your money any way you like, it's none of my business. Heaven forbid that you should take advantage of someone else's knowledge they acquired the hard way, and would prefer to make all the mistakes yourself rather than listen to someone that's already made a few of them share how to avoid them. Not that there's anything wrong with that; doesn't affect me one way or the other; after all it's your money; it's just ..... well, stupid.
I hope you like tail lights, because you're going to be seeing alot of them soon. With an empty wallet. You won't even be able to buy a look at the front of another car in your rear-view mirror.
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The 302 isn't anything special, and by todays standards, rather worthless- but that's history you don't want to hear.
A stock (apparently) LT1 sin't all that special either, don't bother cleaning your rear view mirror.
If you are as thick with regard to suspension advice as you are with motor advice, it won't matter what you have in the engine bay, you won't be going anywhere quickly.
A stock (apparently) LT1 sin't all that special either, don't bother cleaning your rear view mirror.
If you are as thick with regard to suspension advice as you are with motor advice, it won't matter what you have in the engine bay, you won't be going anywhere quickly.
Last edited by five7kid; 04-05-2005 at 10:46 AM.
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Originally posted by Red Devil
The 302 isn't anything special, and by todays standards, rather worthless- but that's history you don't want to hear.
A stock (apparently) LT1 sin't all that special either, don't bother cleaning your rear view mirror.
If you are as thick with regard to suspension advice as you are with motor advice, it won't matter what you have in the engine bay, you won't be going anywhere quickly.
The 302 isn't anything special, and by todays standards, rather worthless- but that's history you don't want to hear.
A stock (apparently) LT1 sin't all that special either, don't bother cleaning your rear view mirror.
If you are as thick with regard to suspension advice as you are with motor advice, it won't matter what you have in the engine bay, you won't be going anywhere quickly.
stock lt1 will run low 13s in a 3000 pound f-body rather easily that may not be track respectable, but its street respectable.
Last edited by five7kid; 04-05-2005 at 10:46 AM.
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You didn't know RB either but had no problem acting like an *** to him.
Last I checked thirdgens didn't weigh ≤3000lbs.... unless your s/n was ODB.
Stock LT1s run low 13's? Define -low- 13's.
Didn't the '95 'vette with an LT1 pull something along the lines of 13.7?
With a curb weight of over 3300 lbs.?
The LT4’s on the other hand dipped into the 12’s
Is that your idea of a 3300 lb. ‘f-body’ in the low 13's??
And it all depends on -whose- street. Particularly since that oh-so-mighty LT1 was replaced with more powerful engines. A 13 second car was respectable around here back in 1991… but wait… that would be history to you huh?
Last I checked thirdgens didn't weigh ≤3000lbs.... unless your s/n was ODB.
Stock LT1s run low 13's? Define -low- 13's.
Didn't the '95 'vette with an LT1 pull something along the lines of 13.7?
With a curb weight of over 3300 lbs.?
The LT4’s on the other hand dipped into the 12’s
Is that your idea of a 3300 lb. ‘f-body’ in the low 13's??
And it all depends on -whose- street. Particularly since that oh-so-mighty LT1 was replaced with more powerful engines. A 13 second car was respectable around here back in 1991… but wait… that would be history to you huh?
Last edited by five7kid; 04-05-2005 at 10:43 AM.
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Originally posted by Red Devil
You didn't know RB either but had no problem acting like an *** to him.
Last I checked thirdgens didn't weigh ≤3000lbs.... unless your s/n was ODB.
Stock LT1s run low 13's? Define -low- 13's.
Didn't the '95 'vette with an LT1 pull something along the lines of 13.7?
With a curb weight of over 3300 lbs.?
The LT4’s on the other hand dipped into the 12’s
Is that your idea of a 3300 lb. ‘f-body’ in the low 13's??
And it all depends on -whose- street. Particularly since that oh-so-mighty LT1 was replaced with more powerful engines. A 13 second car was respectable around here back in 1991… but wait… that would be history to you huh?
You didn't know RB either but had no problem acting like an *** to him.
Last I checked thirdgens didn't weigh ≤3000lbs.... unless your s/n was ODB.
Stock LT1s run low 13's? Define -low- 13's.
Didn't the '95 'vette with an LT1 pull something along the lines of 13.7?
With a curb weight of over 3300 lbs.?
The LT4’s on the other hand dipped into the 12’s
Is that your idea of a 3300 lb. ‘f-body’ in the low 13's??
And it all depends on -whose- street. Particularly since that oh-so-mighty LT1 was replaced with more powerful engines. A 13 second car was respectable around here back in 1991… but wait… that would be history to you huh?
my car weighs 3029 pounds. and I will do more weight reduction on it after I put the lt1 in, but it doesn't matter because I won't be keeping the lt1 stock.
Last edited by five7kid; 04-05-2005 at 10:43 AM.
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For the sake of the technical content within this thread, I took the liberty to edit out the non-technical, rules-violating comments.
For the sake of your TGO status, I'd suggest you all keep it technical and not attempt to stroke your cyber-egos.
For the sake of your TGO status, I'd suggest you all keep it technical and not attempt to stroke your cyber-egos.
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Originally posted by five7kid
For the sake of the technical content within this thread, I took the liberty to edit out the non-technical, rules-violating comments.
For the sake of your TGO status, I'd suggest you all keep it technical and not attempt to stroke your cyber-egos.
For the sake of the technical content within this thread, I took the liberty to edit out the non-technical, rules-violating comments.
For the sake of your TGO status, I'd suggest you all keep it technical and not attempt to stroke your cyber-egos.
What would be cool would be to put this aftermentioned 302 into a Vega/Monza or the like. THAT would make for a fun car. Put a fart can and bookshelf on it and fool all the Jap Happies into thinking you've got an "old POS 4 cyl." domestic econobox.
But unless you can get an f-body well into the sub 3,000 lb. range I wouldn't bother. You don't really think that GM built the 302 for the Z28 because they wanted to, do you?
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