Here is the story...
I just bought a 89 Firebird 2.8L
It started and ran fine when I drove it home and the next day.
On the third day, it did not want to start. I eventually got it to start and it would die a couple of times but I got it driving.
That day I was disassembling the Steering column, because the tilt mech. was broke.
While taking the Ignition apart, I found that the VATS wires to the lock cylinder were broken at the lock. Now this is the weird thing, while the wires were broke the car ran and the Security light came on with the key on and then turned off once the car started (from what I have read on here that is what is supposed to happen) but sometimes the security light would come on while driving; like when the wheel would wiggle (because of the broke Tilt)
So... I replaced the steering column and fixed the two broken Ignition cylinder wires (I'll add a pict of the fixed lock)
I tested the Ohms on the key and then checked the repaired wires and the repair was successful (measured the same Ohms as the key pellet)
When everything was reassembled, the Security light came on for a few seconds and then goes out (that differs from before the repair because the light would stay on until the car was started).
But the car still doesn't want to start right away.
another thing i noticed was that something is hacked behind the drivers kick panel (I think this is where the starter relay is located, but i don't think its there. there is a disconnected connector with cut wires and maybe a grounded wire, I'll have to double check I don't really remember. Definitely a hack job of some kind.
Could someone send me a pict of a starter relay so I can see if mine is gone. Is that something that people do to bypass VATS remove the relay?
Is it possible that ignition cylinder and key was replaced the resistant in the key is wrong? What would the car/Security light do it that were so?
Is there a way to test the signal coming out of the VATS module to see if it is sending the ECM the correct signal, my gut tells me its not.
One thing I forgot to add is that the key warning buzzer switch is not right.
I have to wiggle the key to make it buzz when the key is in the off position. Does VATS use that switch to make sure a key is inserted in the ignition? I would think that it would. any idea what might fix the loose buzzer switch?

Thanks.
I know its a long one but please help.

 

Your on the right track and you know what your talking about. Check under the dash where the bright-orange and black/white pair runs to the cyliunder. Where its disconnected the is a possiblility that theres a resistor there to bypass the vats.

Thanks to Trickster@tgo.org when i had the infamous vats problem the first thing i did was go to the relay a.k.a. CAMARO-(Starter Enable Relay) or FIREBIRD-(Theft Deterent Relay) They are the same thing but only diagnosed by each individual name per car. My problem turned out to be the ingnition switch itself. They are only $12 so i would try that out.

Sorry if i didnt help.

 

Well this is where the starter relay is supposed to be right?

 

Yes. And that was the original connector. Someone obviously bypassed it.

 

Is there a way to check if the Prom has been replaced with a burned non-VATS chip?

Does anybody know?

 

I hope you were not the one that butchered up that harness.

 

Did you read the post!?!
I'm trying to fix this damn problem!


I hate having to fix wiring in cars because the Dumb-*** who owned it before me didn't know what the F_ he was doing.


Do the next owner a favor and DON'T BYPASS VATS! If you are not smart enough to fix it and can't afford to have it done right then you don't have the RIGHT to own a Third Gen!


Well... I feel a little better...

 

Trust me brother, I feel your pain!

Haha!

 

Does anybody know?

 

If the EPROM was for a VATS car, I don't think it would run with it bypassed... right?

 

I checked the ECM and I don't think the EPROM cover has every been taken off.
Like I said I was having problems with starting the car, since the starter relay was bypass it still turned over but did not start (but it was intermittent) when I fixed the cylinder its now starts good.
I just wanted to make sure that the EPROM wasn't swapped out.

Is there a number on it that would tell if it was not the original?

Thanks all for your help!

 

Birdofprey. Do you want a pic of mine? Its a 91 GTA but pretty close though.

 

Sure if its not to much trouble...

 

I hope you plan to fix that hack-up. That almost looks like a fire hazard there...

I can tell that you have done your homework on this subject, my hats off to you

 

Thank you sellmanb, and to all who have helped me.
does anyone know what the part number might be for that missing relay?
any chance its the same as the headlamp or the other relays that are by the firewall in the engine compartment?

 

Sorry my ISP has been down for a few days. Gone to get a pic now. And a part #.

 

The number i pulled off the top of the relay was 14093107.

But here is the pic of my starter enable relay a.k.a. Theft Deterent Relay.

I ahve a few more if you need them.