Put another 5 quarts of Max Life??
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Maryland
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 L03
Transmission: Borg-Warner WC T-5
Put another 5 quarts of Max Life??
Fellas and Ladies,
I got my RS with 68K miles on it. It had sat, gotten dirty, kinda ugly and I have since cleaned it a lot and modded it a little. I changed out the oil when I got it and put in Valvoline Max Life. The engine did not and does not smoke on start up, nor does it leak oil. I do have some ticking/tapping noises when I get on the gas, but I'm not sure where they are coming from as of yet. Anyway, my question, should I continue to use the Max Life or should I use something else???
I got my RS with 68K miles on it. It had sat, gotten dirty, kinda ugly and I have since cleaned it a lot and modded it a little. I changed out the oil when I got it and put in Valvoline Max Life. The engine did not and does not smoke on start up, nor does it leak oil. I do have some ticking/tapping noises when I get on the gas, but I'm not sure where they are coming from as of yet. Anyway, my question, should I continue to use the Max Life or should I use something else???
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Joined: May 2003
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From: Toledo, OH
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Oil is oil; highly debatable, but the "weight" matters a million times more than the "special blended" addatives. Run 5w30 or 10w30 and you can use the cheapest stuff, pending it's the properly rated API Service code (is SL the newest?). The only differences you will find from brand to brand are negligble in standard applications.
Synthetic oils aren't any more special. They're made in a lab- the only difference being that all of the oil molecules are uniform. Dyno oil from alaska might be different from texas, or the north atlantic, etc etc. Also, dyno oils may contain chains of hydrocarbons rather than individual molecules.
Synthetic oils aren't any more special. They're made in a lab- the only difference being that all of the oil molecules are uniform. Dyno oil from alaska might be different from texas, or the north atlantic, etc etc. Also, dyno oils may contain chains of hydrocarbons rather than individual molecules.
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Joined: Nov 2003
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From: Maryland
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 L03
Transmission: Borg-Warner WC T-5
Originally posted by johnjm22
Mobil 1 Synthetic.
The ticking/tapping noises your talking about are the TBI injectors.
Mobil 1 Synthetic.
The ticking/tapping noises your talking about are the TBI injectors.
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
And adjust your base timing properly. It's likely the previous owner advanced it too far but you didn't tell me at what RPM, MPH, coolant temp it's happening so I'm just giving you something to do
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 389
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From: Maryland
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 L03
Transmission: Borg-Warner WC T-5
Originally posted by JPrevost
And adjust your base timing properly. It's likely the previous owner advanced it too far but you didn't tell me at what RPM, MPH, coolant temp it's happening so I'm just giving you something to do
And adjust your base timing properly. It's likely the previous owner advanced it too far but you didn't tell me at what RPM, MPH, coolant temp it's happening so I'm just giving you something to do
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Joined: Oct 1999
Posts: 6,621
Likes: 2
Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
You might have replaced the knock sensor with a wrong version. Part stores are natorious for mixing up the 2 typs of knock sensors. Unplug the EST module that's on the drivers side firewall next too all the relays, then measure the resistance between ground and pin E which I believe is a white wire. Tell me the resistance you measured and I'll tell you if it's the correct sensor.
Also, have you tried driving around with less base timing, is the noise just as loud? Noise not coming from the intake or exhaust scares me... rod knock it isn't because that'll show up even on decel (no gas) so that's a good sign, also your oil pressure I'm assuming is checking out okay.
Also, have you tried driving around with less base timing, is the noise just as loud? Noise not coming from the intake or exhaust scares me... rod knock it isn't because that'll show up even on decel (no gas) so that's a good sign, also your oil pressure I'm assuming is checking out okay.
Thread Starter
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Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 389
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From: Maryland
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 L03
Transmission: Borg-Warner WC T-5
Originally posted by JPrevost
You might have replaced the knock sensor with a wrong version. Part stores are natorious for mixing up the 2 typs of knock sensors. Unplug the EST module that's on the drivers side firewall next too all the relays, then measure the resistance between ground and pin E which I believe is a white wire. Tell me the resistance you measured and I'll tell you if it's the correct sensor.
Also, have you tried driving around with less base timing, is the noise just as loud? Noise not coming from the intake or exhaust scares me... rod knock it isn't because that'll show up even on decel (no gas) so that's a good sign, also your oil pressure I'm assuming is checking out okay.
You might have replaced the knock sensor with a wrong version. Part stores are natorious for mixing up the 2 typs of knock sensors. Unplug the EST module that's on the drivers side firewall next too all the relays, then measure the resistance between ground and pin E which I believe is a white wire. Tell me the resistance you measured and I'll tell you if it's the correct sensor.
Also, have you tried driving around with less base timing, is the noise just as loud? Noise not coming from the intake or exhaust scares me... rod knock it isn't because that'll show up even on decel (no gas) so that's a good sign, also your oil pressure I'm assuming is checking out okay.
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: Ajax, ON
Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
Originally posted by v8nate92RS
My dad said it sounded like it might be the air pump. I'm not sure, hopefully I'll get the car in the shop this coming week to have a mechanic take a look. My oil pressure is fine, however my sending unit just went and it only works when I'm at idle or under 55 mph, above that it pegs.
My dad said it sounded like it might be the air pump. I'm not sure, hopefully I'll get the car in the shop this coming week to have a mechanic take a look. My oil pressure is fine, however my sending unit just went and it only works when I'm at idle or under 55 mph, above that it pegs.
You have electrical problems. Hope your dad is good with wires.
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Joined: Oct 1999
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Car: 91 Red Sled
Axle/Gears: 10bolt Richmond 3.73 Torsen
Sounds like you're explaining an exhaust leak. They only show up when you're on the gas. Check the air pump and fittings and don't bother with the base timing until you've checked for those exhaust leaks.
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 1,054
Likes: 1
From: Ajax, ON
Car: 85Z28 87GTA 91GTA 98SS
Engine: SBC, LS-x
Transmission: T-5, 700-R4, T-56
Re: Put another 5 quarts of Max Life??
Originally posted by v8nate92RS
Should I continue to use the Max Life or should I use something else???
Should I continue to use the Max Life or should I use something else???
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 389
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From: Maryland
Car: 1992 Camaro RS
Engine: 305 L03
Transmission: Borg-Warner WC T-5
Re: Re: Put another 5 quarts of Max Life??
Originally posted by HalfInchWrench
I only use Mobil 1 5W30 and have driven over 600K. I am about to change it to an engine that has 100K on it. The old engine still works fine, just down on power.
I only use Mobil 1 5W30 and have driven over 600K. I am about to change it to an engine that has 100K on it. The old engine still works fine, just down on power.
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