I read in a post earlier that you can add atf to your motor oil and it will act as a detergent to clean the gunk out of the engine. im sure there are other "myths" out there, im just wondering if anyone on this board knows any. I'm willing to try almost anything cuz my lg4 is getting old (115k). thanks-


------------------
1987 LG4 Camaro z28

Performance
KN airfilter, flowmaster 80 series and catco high flow cat, 180* thermostat

System
Panasonic CQ-DF200U deck, fosgate speakers (hpc1369, frc2246)

 

Uh, I've read several myths on here from time to time but that wasn't one of them .

------------------
1990 IROC 350
Mods: Too busy trying to make it run right to mod it.
Airfoil, Dynomax cat-back, MSD coil, 180 t-stat, Bald Eagle tires,
Hypertech fan switch, Accel 23# injectors, Holley AFPR, ported plenum,
Ported Daytona Yellow stock base, Moroso valve covers, other stuff,
Ruger P95DC, hot wife, new oil filter, thick rubber floormats, no cats.
18.0 @ 85MPH since I'm one big-a$$ MF
"It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

 

Z28,

If you are concerned about sludge formation in the crankcase, use synthetic engine oil instead of the mineral oil. Unless you have a lubrication problem, the sludge is probabyl ont severe enough to warrant the ATF method (which does work to clean the sludge, gum, and varnish but can cause ash formation). Fully synthetic oil will clean the engine thoroughly and provide superior lubrication.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Let the bodies hit the floor!"
Adobe Acrobat Reader

 

I have tried the ATF idea. It works. I would not recomend waiting for 3k miles to change again, I would go for 1k, this would prohibit the ash formation that Vader is refering to. And only do this in the summer, or warm months. The ATF doesn't have the same characteristics as oil of course, so in the winter, or cold months, they will separate, and not lubricate properly.



------------------
Joshua Johnston
1991 Z-28
Flowmaster
K&N
305 / 5spd. (Temporary)
Soon to have:
350, Ported Vortec heads, Edelbrock RPM, Holley 750 D.P., HEI, 11.07:1 CR, Comp Cams Roller-.510"/.520"-282*/288* dur., Shorty Headers, Dual 2.5 Exhaust, T&R Motorsports custom air intake

 

Never heard of adding atf to the oil but have heard of slowing pouring it down the carb to clear out carbon. Tried it on my old 80 impala worked pretty good but puffs a hell of a lot of white smoke though, always do this outdoors.

------------------
406SBC
-DART SPORTSMAN 2 HEADS
-RPM INTAKE
-750 SPEED DEMON MECH SEC. CARB
-HEDMAN HEADERS
-COMP CAM EX .507/.510

 

I've always used Marvel Mystery Oil to keep the ins of my (good) motors clean. Good stuff. Never heard the ATF thing though. I've 'seen the light' on synthetics as well. Good stuff too.

 

I know a guy who runs ATF in his oil for about 100mile before each oil change to "clean" his engine. I'm trying it right now in my 85Z
the oil pressure sender was messed up when I got it, it would always max out and not give a proper reading. I added ATF and now it reads normal. It works but like vader said, don't run it for very long.

------------------
WHO NEEDS VTEC? I HAVE VORTEC!

1982 Camaro "VortecZ"
Vortec headed 350 bored .02 over, comp xtreme cam, edelbrock 750 carb, edelbrock performer rpm intake, dynomax 1 5/8" shorty headers, accel ignition, stock TH700r4, powertrax locker, 3.73's

1985 Z28 stock LG4/700r
T-Tops, A/C, soon to be modded.

 

Ive always suspected that the marvel stuff
WAS a kind of atf - just look at it