did a search but didn't see anything.

Anyone use the new Mobil 1 Extended Performance or whatever it is?

Claims you only need to change oil every 15k miles or 1 yr whichever comes first. I think Amsoil does something similiar right?

Any thoughts on going that long? I just bought it since it was only like a few bucks more, and if I can get away with changing oil less often, great, still don't think I want to wait 15k miles though

 

AMSOIL has been saying 25,000 miles or 1 year oil changes, filter change at 12,500 miles or 6 months, whichever comes first, since 1971. I've been doing it that way myself since 1983.

When Mobil 1 came out in 1975, they were saying the same thing. In the 80's, as they cozied up to the OE's and decided to stay on the "3 months or 3,000 miles", "sell more oil" bandwagon of the major oil companies, they dropped that recommendation. Now, they come out with it again, but only with a more expensive oil and still only 15,000 miles.

There's marketing, and there's science. Personally, I choose science.

(Granted, AMSOIL does their share of marketing, including there "XL" line aimed at the quick lube market. However, they back up everything they say with testing and guarantees.)

(And, no, I don't have any biases on this topic... )

 

your full of it :-p


but many even dino lube oils are saying you don't have to change every 3000 miles
hell my old rotary which isn't nice on oil and gets a good amount of blowboy (compaired to a piston motor) back in 87 recomended 5000 mile oil changes with dino juice


and oil has gotten better since the early days where oil had to be changed all the time cause it broke down quick, the loose otlerances made for some nice contamination of the oil the oil also couldn't nutralize those contaminations and such



oil now is able to handle this stuff a lot better
doesn't break down as much also with engines made now their tolerances are a lot tighter making for less blowby getting into the oil. the addatives do their job a little better and synthetics of any sort (speaking real synthetics here with a poa or esther base stock not just highly refined dinojuice) do an even better job

 

Call me old-school, but 15000 miles scares the bejesus out of me. Even if it is safely possible....I wouldn't do it. I'd rather change my oil more often and spend more cash if I can sleep easier at night without thoughts of oil-pan-sludge and lifter-galley-deposits creeping into my dreams.

 

Synthetics out perform dino oil 10 fold. It protects better in every fashion, stays consistant throughout all temperature ranges, doesn't create acids that eat your engine and the list goes on. Your manual will tell you that you can go 7500 miles on dino oil. The real reason why you don't want to go too long with dino oil is because it creates acids over time due to the combustion cycle and eats away engine parts. This acid needs to be flushed even if the lubricating properties of the oil are intact. Synthetics won't do this and as long as you can filter out the heavy stuff (and change filters periodically) you can keep using it.

 

http://neptune.spacebears.com/cars/s.../oil-life.html

mobil 1 safely lasts over 10,000 miles under normal driving conditions.

I change my oil when it gets black. Sometimes this is a few months, sometimes longer. Whether it's wasteful or not, I dont care. The topic has nothing to do with synthetic oil lifespans or 3000 mile oil changes.

Mobil 1 extended seems to carry a lesser certification than regular Mobil 1 full synthetic . It doesn't get the "energy saving" label and it is SL rated, instead of SM. So you're sacrificing some performance for longevity, that is to say that the performance of the oil is a little lower than regular mobil 1 supersyn but it keeps that level across a longer range of time and eventually exceeds regular mobil 1 at some distant time in it's use. basically, unless you're going to keep it in for 15,000 miles, it's not worth the extra money.

 

You're Old School!

Petroleum oil won't last as long because it isn't made up entirely of lubricants. The "good" synthetics are. Petroleum has stuff in it that oxidizes under heat and stress and becomes non-lubricants. The end result is oil pan sludge and lifter galley deposits.

I do sleep well at nights, and on the rare occasions when I've pulled open a synthetic-lubricated engine (upgrades, sensor replacement, for example), I do not find oil pans full of sludge or lifter galleys with a lot of deposits.

How worried are you about driving on tires with more than 10k miles on them? Probably would be pretty upset if they lasted less than that, actually. But, those of us who were around when synthetics first came out remember well bias ply tires that didn't last more than 10k miles. Somehow people believe higher-tech radial tires will last longer than old school bias ply tires, but can't accept the possibility that newer tech synthetic engine oil can last longer than old school petroleum oil.

This topic comes up all the time, and about all one can conclude is you can lead a horse to water but you can't make it drink.

Drink up, boys, the water's fine!

 

never new the extedred drain mobil one didn't have a energy conserving tag on it


I'm using mobil 1 extended drain 5w-30 in my tranny right now would it make any difference to gas mileage if I switched to the just plain old mobil 1 that has the energy conserving cert on it?




and 57 I have a question for you
my tranny says to use 10w-40 but that was back in the 70's when the car was first made
do you think I would be able to use a 5w-20 mobil 1 for the oil instead or should I just stick with the 5w-30 mobile 1?
if I was able to switch to a 5w-20 and not hurt anything would any gas mileage/performance be gained by it or prolly not?
last question I have for you. which oil is better mobil 1 or amsoil or not enough to tell the difference between the two of them :-p testing your non bias attitude here :-p

 

I hope you didn't pour engine oil in your tranny.

If you believe the ratings though, yea you save some mileage by using an oil with the "energy saving" label. Extended Drain is also only SL certified, not SM like regular Mobil 1 supersyn

 

I'd use 10W-40 in it.

http://www.amsoil.com/performancetes...vs_mobil1.aspx

 

I did pour engine oil in my tranny

and if you owned my car I would hope you wouldn't pour gear oil in there


it's what honda calls for is 10w-40
but don't like the 10w-40 so went with 5w-30 instead

 

the only difference between regular mobil1 synthetic and the 15,000mi extended performance synthetic is that there are more additives in the latter to counteract the acids that accumulate in your oil, so it will stay cleaner longer. mobil even guarantees your engine against failure due to lubrication problems for 15k mi. some might say that additives will tend to cause problems like coking etc, but with a well-running engine and a high quality oil like mobil1 i doubt that will ever be an issue. others will opt for the greater protection and longevity of the extended life. take your pick. both are very good choices. i have extended life in my engine but i'm pretty sure i wont be keeping it in for the full 15k mi.

btw there is some info available right on the mobil1 website: http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...formance_FAQs1

 

I change my oil when I feel like doing it, usually twice a year with M1. Mobil has several new extended life products one is a conventional oil with additives that lasts 5k or so, the other is a semi syn and then the "new" full synthetic oil 15K.

57 started a thread a few months back about someone doing private testing with thier 4th gen using regular M1 and Amsoil. Both oils seemed to hold up quite well.

 

one thing I might say bad abotu amsoil though with something that was done on a rotary motor and I can't verify if that truely was the cause of the deposits so take with big grain of salt

some guy was running amsoil and when he ended up doing a full rebuild on the motor there was deposits near the spark plug area on the car that he says usually aer not there when burning dino juice.

could that have been caused by other things though? maybe
I'm not sure myself.

I know someone else did something with a spoon or something like that with dino juice and some synthetic oil. I'm honestly not sure which but he put some oil in a spoon like container and heated it up with a torch and the dino juice left ash and other deposits the synthetic oil burned nice and clean


and yeah you are prolly wondering why I'm posting this since your motors shouldn't burn oil. well sometimes they do. part of life sometimes with piston motors :-p

 

Actually, I didn't start it, but safemode linked it above.

As I said before, they didn't follow AMSOIL's recommendations for filter change, which may have altered the results.

 

another question I have for you guys as far as oil in the tranny

I understand some use normal synthetic oil

while others have chosen to use ATF instead

with the tranny I have many ppl have used atf with no problem and I found some synthetic atf that I can put in

what would be the differences between the two as far as performance, gas mileage, wear and such? the only thing I know of is ppl said using atf is it easier on the syncros

again right now I have 5w-30 synthetic in there would it be better to try synthetic ATF or just stay with the synthetic 5w-30?

 

The claim is AMSOIL does leave small ash deposits over time, more then M1. I cant beleive it would leave more then dino juice but who know how long the AMS was left in the engine or what failed to lead to an engine tear down.

As far as trans fluid all auto makes now use a synthetic fluid, GM has since the early 90's (Syncromesh). It's only a tad thicker then ATF but is supposed to have nearly the same protection as gear oil. I used syn 80-90w in my WC T5, it shifted like crap cold, went to syn ATF and dident like noise. Syncromesh made me happy, even at $8.99 a quart.

 

my main goal with this car (and sorry to hijack thread) is gas mileage

I'm trying to beat anything I can into this car to get the best gas mileage I can without making a hit to reliability

I notice my 1 2 shift sometimes grinds but I can work through it but if you think synthetic atf won't grind anymore I might try it


how much different is the synthetic atf vs the "normal" atf?

and between synthetic atf vs synthetic motor oil should be about the same gas mileage I take it?

 

so 15,000 miles between oil changes? That makes synthetic seem so much more reasonable.

I too am "old-school" eventhough I'm not even in my 20's yet. I was always taught 3,000 miles or 3 months, whichever comes first, of course this is with dino oil. I also learned synthetic will make the seals leak and should be avoided... lots of which I have now realized is a big crock.

Now I have been reading up on synthetics a lot more, and I plan on only running synthetic in my new engine. After reading more and more, I'm thinking of switching over to synthetic in my current commuter (143,000 miles, Mitsubishi built engine) to help it last longer.

I just don't understand the oil change intervals. If I were to run Mobile 1 Synthetic and a good filter, how often should I change oil realistically?

 

realisticaly, probably twice a year or less. Your filter should be changed more often, depending on the size and how quickly your oil becomes discolored.

Again, this is all assuming you're driving your car like a regular person.

 

anymore even new dino juice doesn't require 3000 miles or less before being changed


many ppl do it cause of old stigma of the old days



my dad won't even switch to synthetic in his pickup truck because he thinks running 3000 miles between oil changes is going to look good when he tries to resell the old truck and thinks it would be doing better for the truck also