I figured I'd start a new thread since the topic is now different. Here's the old thread for anyone who wants to see how I got here. https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...hreadid=303635

So I started the engine with a battery charger hooked up. I ran it for maybe 10 minutes and shut it off. I took the valve covers off to adjust the valves with the engine running, but it wouldn't start. Turning the distributor cap doesn't change a thing. I pulled the plugs and they are pretty black, but I've seen worse. I know the car is running really rich since I'm running a stock 305 bin on my setup. It still cranks, but it cranks a little slow. I took a break for a while, came back, put the charger on it, and it started. I took it for a spin around the block and parked it for the night. First thing today, it started up. I ran it for 5 minutes, then it died by itself. It wouldn't start, but it did crank over. I put the charger on it again and it started. I ran it for about 10 minutes again, then shut it off. It wouldn't start again. I tried starting it with the charger and that didn't help. What's the deal here??

Battery is a year and a half old, alternator is a little over a year old, starter is a year old.

 

i'm certainly no expert but check your connections at the battery and make sure that your battery is holding a charge. where are you grounding your charger to; because i was grounding mine straight to top terminal of the battery with a bad battery and it was cranking real slow. so slow that it wouldnt crank a full rotation. i moved the ground to the wire from the alternator to the battery, and it fired right up.

 

anddd I think I figured out the problem...white smoke was billowing out of the alternator when I put the charger on it and started it again!

So why do alternators go bad? I'm wondering if there is something that I need to fix before I get another alternator so I won't fry the new one.

 

Most common causes of killing an alternator are low/dead batteries, or age..innard (diodes/bushings/etc) begin to die.

You problem really seems like weak a battery.

 

So if I just get a new alternator that one will get wrecked too? Should I get a new battery too?

 

I got a new alternator and brought my battery to Sears to have them check it. They charged it up for 15 minutes and said it was fine. I looked at the charging machine and it said "battery good" right on it, so I guess I trust it.

I brought them home, installed them, and the car started right up. I had to give it a little gas to keep it running, as soon as I let off the gas it died. I turned the dizzy cap a little, tried to start it, and I got nothing. One little click. I figured maybe I had it too far advanced so it didn't want to crank, so I retarded it some. Still no crank. What's going on here?

 

15 minutes isn't enough to charge a battery...did they load check it?

Pretty sure it was mentioned above somewhere, but make sure the ground connection to the block is clean/shiny and tight, as well as the positive connection on the starter...also make sure the inside of both cables where they connect to the battery are clean and shiny.

 

It seems to start every time I try to now...crosses fingers.

However, I have a new problem. I have to give it throttle to keep it on once it starts and it runs like CRAP. It was running a lot better yesterday on the few occasions that it did start. I got a code 42. Haynes manual says "poor electrical connection, open or short in circuit, defective ignition module, defective ECM." I'm guessing it's the ignition module because I looked at all the connections on the coil and the back of the distributor and they look good. I don't think the ECM is bad. Where else would I look for poor electrical connections or shorts?

I took the module to Autozone. They had a banner on the outside: "Free battery charging, free alternator check, free ignition control module check." I go inside and ask if they can test my module. Guy replies, "Oh we don't have the kind of equipment to do that." Sigh, I hate Autozone.

So I guess I'll have Lappens or somewhere else test it tomorrow.

8Mike9 - They might have load checked the battery, I don't really know what the machine was that they had it in.

 

Stock ECM's are pretty crappy imo, I replaced mine twice in my old 3rd gen

 

Thanks Meatwad. I see your point that the stock ECMs aren't all that great. I have no real experience with this, but if the ECM was bad, wouldn't I get a code 55 which is solely for a defective ECM?

 

Code 42 happens when you disconnect the EST to set timng.

When you say running rough, you mean rpms are "choppy" or rpms surge up and down? If you have a weak battery and the car is running off the alternator, you'll get all kinds of surging...not related (IMO) to the code 42, but just food well a snack anyway) for thought.

Re: Load checking, if all you saw them do was hook it to a charger, the charger most likely said "fully charged". But when they load check it, they connect a meter looking thing with cables to the battery, press a button for a few seconds to simulate a load on the battery like when starting the car...let the button off and repeat a few times...after this, the charge in the battery is rad on the meter face...if still in the "green", it's holding the load, if not...means you may well need a new battery.

Not trying to talk you into buying one, just want to make sure you have it fully tested...in fact AutoZone should be able to do it while in the car.

Funny thing, I thought all AZ's had ICM testers...next time in there...take a look along and behind the counter, the two AutoZones around me both have thier ICM tester thing, at the end of the counter...far opposite of the cash register.

 

Hmmm the EST was connected when the light came on...

Its running rough like the RPMs are real choppy, its not surging.

I really have no idea about the load checking thing. All I know is that it was in some sort of device with connections screwed into the terminals. It didn't look like any chargers that I've seen, but it could have just been a really big heavy-duty one.

I'll get the ICM tested tomorrow and maybe the battery too.

 

Okay, for grins, maybe inspect the EST connection for corrosion/etc. Might lead you to your '42" issue, also inspect the wiring to the dizzy, may have corrosion as well.

Also, try the TBI/TPI forums for "code 42" search, IIRC, someone in the last few years had similar issues and code 42, had something to do with connections.

 

I think my problem is that its just running too rich. I have good spark and the timing is good. I disconnected the battery, reconnected it, and the code 42 went away. Every time I pull the plugs, they are horribly fouled. I have chipburning equipment, but I really haven't worked on it yet. How can I just make it have less fuel? I don't care if the tune is good, it just obviously needs less fuel. It's an 87 MAF 165 ECM. I've read all the PROM burning stuff, all the stickies and I've searched for 165 and 6E in the prom forum, and it seems like you tune with the MAF tables. Do I just want to increase the values in the MAF tables? I looked and I couldn't find an injector constant anywhere.

 

Just thought of something else, it said in the Haynes to use silicone grease or something like that on the bottom of the ignition module. Mine still had some on it, but it wasn't completely covered. I just put some regular grease on it, is that a problem? I get the feeling you are supposed to use the stuff they recommend for a reason. However, the code went away...