i sort of have 2 questions and ill get to the point as quickly as possible, 1)Im modifying a 305 TPI from an 88' model motor, i got a set of 88' corvette alluminum heads, i bought a cam from lingenfelter/accel cam part #74211, and i was advised my accel to get their double springs and titanium retainer, everything is installed on the vette heads, i installed the cam on the 305 put in the stock but great condition roller lifters, installed comp replacement pushrods, and as soon as i tried to install the FULL roller rocker arms from comp i cant seem to bolt on some of them, the stud from the head wont stick out too much off the rocker arm for me to put the nut in, do i have to rotate the cam in order to get some of the nuts tightened, by the way its 3/8 studs and 1/5 roller rockers, why isnt the roller rockers sticking through the stud to give me room to put the bolt on????? im confused could it be that i need shorter pushrods, since i installed that cam??will roting the cam help me out?what should i do?????

 

Vortech,

Regardless of what position the engine is stopped at, some of the valves are going to be in the open position. Look at your old cam and you'll see why. The roller rockers have a larger pivot boss than the standard pivot ***** on stamped rockers, so you will likely have to rotate the engine until the vales on a particular cylinder are supposed to be in the closed position before you can install the rockers. As you do, you should check the clearances of the rocker arms and all valve train parts to insure adequate and safe clearances of the components.

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Later,
Vader
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Justice and Freedom will Prevail

 

Are you sure you got the right pushrods? Roller cam motors use a different lenght pushrod from the conventional style SBC.

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Michelle
92 Formula 350
91 Z28

 

Im sure i got the right pushrods they did say for 87 and up roller lifters, and i figured id have to move the crank in order to to get the nut into the head stud, i have one more question, how are u suppose to tighten the nuts on the stud, do u torque them down? im pretty sure its not hand tightening, everything else seems to work fine. any suggestions?

 

I'm sure this sounds stupid but I just did this recently and I almost F'ed up my entire engine. On the crane RR There is a rounded side and a flat side to the pivot piece. If you acceidently put the flat side down there will be barely enough stud to get it on. Make sure the flat side is up

 

No you do not torque them down. Here is the quick and dirty of setting your valves:
1- bring the engine to #1 firing. This is with the balancer aligned at the 0 mark on the tab, and the valves for #1 will both be closed (if the valves for 1 are moving and the valves for 6 are closed you're on #6 firing. Actually it doesn't matyter where you start, just that you know where you are.
2- now set the valves for #1 (or whichever cylinder you are on. You'll tighten the poly locks by hand (if you can't put them on easily w/ your fingers clean up the threads on the studs w/ a die) until there is no slack between the pushrod, lifter and rocker. Note you do not tighten till you collaps the lifter, you tighten till there is just no slack, but you'll still be able to push the pushrod down a small amount against the plunger in the lifter
3- now tighten the rocker down another 1/2 - 1 full turn. This is a matter of preference, but with 1/2-3/4 turn you can't go wrong.
4- now hold the outside of the polylock stationary while you tighten the inner jamb nut down to lock it in place.
5- now turn the crank 45' and repeat on the next cylinder in order
6- 18436572



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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The TPI & Carb Boards
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
305 TPI A4 2.73 - 14.8 @ 93.1
Stock except ported plenum and dual cats
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

 

dont worry i didnt make that msitake its not the nut thats the problem is the head stud wont come out of the roller rocker arm, so i cant screw in the bolt, but im sure i might have to move the crank, or unless im wrong??????/

 

ed moderator, ur the man for helping me out, but im a moron when it comes to degrees or anything, i did however get the #1 piston on top lined up the dots with the cam and crank sprocket, other than that im lost, this is my first rebuild im im sort of lost in the mechanic words, hell im building this motor reading car craft and other sources, dont think u wasted your time, i copied what u wrote and im asking around for help, i really didnt know so much work goes into building a motor, ed u wouldnt happen to know anything on the rocker arm problem would u?

 

.

 

OK, a little more help.
First, yeah you'll need to rotate thge engine to get the rocker stud to stick through some of them.
As for degrees, actually i screwed this up anyway. I meant to say 90' between adjusting valves, i don't know why i was thinking 45. 90' is 1/4 turn. So you'll adjust #1, turn the crank 1/4 turn clockwise (the timing mark will now be on the drivers side) and adjust #8, 1/4 turn again (mark is now down) and do #4, etc. The firing order is 18436572, follow that for the rest of them. Like i said, just make sure that you are on 1 or 6 firing when you have the timing mark on the top, you can tell by which one has open valve(s) (lifters will not be all the way down)
Don't worry, after you get through this it'll all start seeming like old hat.
...ed

 

Here's a little more help....

Buy a Helms shop manual.

I don't mean to be critical with that comment. Its just the truth.

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

 

Well i sort of found the problem, i called Lingenfelter/Accel yesterday to find out why the roller rocker arm wouldnt go all the way through the stud and he said "Oh u gotta get longer studs" just like that. Now im at a point where im really getting pissed off at LPE/Accel, At first when i bought their cam, they said i didnt need anything else, later i found out i need springs,retainers, ordered that, they said i didnt need anything else, later i need Valve Locks, ordered the damn Valve locks, they said there sure thats the last thing i need, Now i freakin need Longer studs for the head, Im really getting pissed at LPE, how many times do i gotta order parts wait another freakin 4 days and find out later im gonna need more parts, im sorry but i hate LPE and i suggest that no one buys their product.