ok so i found a belt routing that works with the stock belt (its a little tight but it works)


heres a drawing (yes i suck at MSpaint)


LMK wat u think, or if this would cause any problems.

 

I think thats in one of the tech articles about how to remove your AIR/Smog pump..

 

yes but for the article u needed a new belt and the routing when from the alt to the ps pump to the wp.

 

reminds me of some kind of brain teaser puzzle. i'm probably wrong, but won't that make the water pump pully rotate backwards, or does that matter?

 

Would it matter, yes. Does that belt routing spin the water pump backwards, no.


Good job, Borsty. How's that belt routing working out so far on your car, or have you driven with that routing yet?

 

i havent started the car up yet, brand new engine and i just test fitted it, for kicks saying 'hey why not nothing to lose, and bam it fits, everything turns the way it should, in theroy.



oh yeah, never put vortec heads in place of regular SBC heads once were big big big PITA

 

How does the idler sit? Does it look normal or does the pulley sit lower?

 

You should be okay but I would monitor your water pump. It may slip seing how you sped up its rotation with less torque applied to it. The alternator pulley is smaller than the PS pulley.

 

its a little higher, its a tight fit.

 

i just now put that setup with the belt on my 90 formula, and the car runs fine but now i have a coolant leak, its driping from arond the timing chain cover, looks as if its coming from the water pump, i think maybe its from the different belt routing, because the way the belt pulls on the water pump is in a different direction from the stock way, plus now i cant use my air because when the clutch kicks in the belt slips around the crank pully, and squeals real loud and the belt stops. but as long as the clutch doesnt kick in in runs fine. ill try and post a pic of it later today.

 

You mean the belt stops moving completely?

 

yeah completly, because if you look at the amount of area that the belt used to touch the crank pully when stock, that area is almost cut in half. so the belt touches on about 1/3 of the crank vs. 1/2 the crank. thats why if you look at the tech artical that was posted the guy said to get a longer belt so that you can route the belt so that it touchs the same amount of area on the crank pully as before.

 

Do you know what length, or who knows what length? This is going to become an issue real fast for me//. I just got the hugger orange on my engine, now I'm cleaning up the serp brackets.

 

this was posted in the tech artical, he said to use a 96.8 in belt.

 

It seems hard to understand that taking the stock route while eliminating the smog pump you would need a longer belt. You don't have to take that trip down the smog pump which is below the a/c.

But, with the been there and done that thing. I will take others learning experiances and profit. Was that tech article on TGO?

 

https://www.thirdgen.org/newdesign/t...rpentine.shtml


thats the link that was givin to me.

 

okay, I see. He is going from the altenator to the power steering pump, water pump, crank, back to the a/c. The longer belt allows you to route this way and give the necessary contact to the crank.