I plan on building the following engine for my 91 rs. i have a list of parts for the engine its not complete but i think it should make for a good combo. any input would be appreciated.

rotating assembly from either enginekits or speedomotive
http://www.speedomotive.com/383Forged.htm

http://shop.enginekits.com/osb/itemdetails.cfm?ID=85

world products Sportsman II 72 cc ironwith 1.6 SSI ( p.a.w.) roller rockers (1) . carne cams spring set cra-11310-1 ds (p.a.w.)

cranecams compu cam 214 int 220 exh lift .452 int .465 exh
or
extreme energy hyd roller 230 int 236 exh .510i .520e (2)

holley stealthram with 36 lb inj.

weiand electric water pump

rhoads lifters

competition cams double roller timing chain

msd 6a ignition with blaster coil


1.these rocker any good ? and can i use them with the sportsman II springs or would i have to change them ?

2. can i use this cam with the 1.6 rockers and the this cam with the sportsman II heads. should i change the springs if i do ?

3. how much torque and horse could i create with this combo?

since my 91 came with a v6 i'm going to need a posi unit for my rear.need it pretty cheap any ideas ?

i also have a 305 out what i believe to be an 87 iroc if i shouldnt use the 1.6 should i yank the ones out of the 305 or just but the 1.5 rollers? that much of a dif?

id like to do this in my car eventually

just thanking you guys ahead of time for your input any and all is welcome? just need ideas i dont wanna waste my money

 

I don't know what you intend to use the motor for, but if it's for the street then here are my thoughts.

1. Thw world product heads should be off the list because they
are cast iron and will run hotter. Aluminum heads will run
cooler and shave 40 lbs. off the front end. They will also allow
you to run the 9.5 compression ratio on 87 octane. Useful with
todays gas prices and for getting a little more power. Not much
mind you, but a little.
2. The 383 route is a good one to take, since it will give you more
low-end torque and allow you to run a bigger cam.
3. The holley stealth ram is costly and creates hood clearance
problems. It's a nice unit, but I wouldn't use it. That's just me.
4. The electric water pump shouldn't be run if you intend to drive
the car a lot. It's worth 15-20 hp at the most, but will need to
be replaced if you drive the car a lot. These are really intended
for the weekend warriors and strip only cars, not daily drivers.
5. 1.6 roller rockers are nice because they give you a little more
lift and fool the engine into thinking the cams got a little more
duration than it really has. The geometry is also better, which
improves valvetrain longevity and stability.
6. For the induction system, I'd check out Edelbrock or Accel's
fuel injection systems. You can use a better intake manifold
and overcome a lot of the problems T.P.I. systems suffer. As
a bonus, you will also have more tuning capability right off the
bat and not have to be burning prom chips all the time.
7. I'd use a cam similar to the LT4 Hotcam. If you want more,
bump the intake duration up to 224-226, just remember to
bump the exhaust duration up to match the heads needs.
A.F.R.'s usually like around 6 degrees more on the exhaust to
make the most power.
8. My head of choice would be the A.F.R. 195 competition heads.

A nice cam with this set up should net you over 400 hp at the flywheel and at least 450 lb-ft of torque on 87 octane. Not bad for a car you can drive around town all day. If you want to boost the octane to 92-94 you can also run a 175 hp shot of nitrous. With the right set up, I can see this combo easily making it into the low 11's. Have fun with it.

 

The HSR is definitely impressive and is a great intake as long as you don't have smog check.

You should consider a 9 bolt, because you will be well above 400 horse.

Since you are swapping out a V6, you do realize just how much work this is, right?

Just out of curiosity, how many engines have you built before?

 

i'm looking for performance and a somewhat cheap combo.
i like the idea about the aluminum heads its about 2.40 fo premium so i mean in the real long run it'd be cheaper.i'd like to spend no more then $5000 on the car all together including purchase price.i think right now including everything for the engine the list is about $2000. horse shoes and hand grenades

The afr are kinda of expensive more then a grand they have bare casting in the 180 cc castings but not in the 195. othjerwise i'd love to get em'. I hate to sound like cheapo but $1300 is a lot of money no matter how you slice it.

Would the 180cc be enough for that combo?

Any other manufacters have a head that you'd recommended within or lower then the $1000 dollar price range?

dont mind bare i'd actually prefer it.

I think the holley stealth ram is actually cheapier than most of the other alternatives at around $280 for the base and the plenum, thats not bad compared to the $700 for the superam.

any ideas about the posi ?

 

none actually, ive done engine work before, replaced bearings and gaskets but never actually from rebuilt rotating assembly on up before . im not worried about it though because its within my capability. plus everyone has to start somewhere.

thats a reason im asking for the personal experience and opinions. hopin to learn from other peoples mistakes or victories.

and yes i do understand thats its a great deal of work and itd be easier to just buy a car with a v8. right now i'm just making a list and checkin it twice like good ole' santa. (sorry bout the stupidity) lists just to make sure when i go to order parts i have enough cash.

not sure bout the nine bolt am i asking for my rearend to blow with the ten?

appreciate the help by the way.

 

I don't think the 180 A.F.R.'s will get the job done, unless you intend to feed the motor some nitrous. The 190's would be a good substitute. I don't know if you can get those bare though. Checking their website can answer that question really quick though. If you really like the street ram, then go for it. It would be a lot cheaper than the route I suggested earlier. Just keep one thing in mind when you're selecting a cam. Fuel injection will work best with a lobe seperation angle of 112. That's my opinion and what I've found works best with the least amount of headaches. As for your question regarding the 10 bolt rear-end you have, I think it should be more than enough to handle what you're doing. I've seen a guy running a highly modified 350 with a shot of nitrous that ran high 10's all day long with the stock 10 bolt. It was his daily driver and he never complained about issues with the rear-end. A very important thing to keep in mind is that the stock bottom-end of the 350 motors will live if you keep in mind 2 things. 1. Never exceed 6000 rpm's. 2. Never exceed 470 hp in naturally aspirated form. The bottom end can live happily as long as you don't break these 2 rules of thumb. The more important rule is the one I listed first. The reason I note that is because I've seen guys break rule number 2 but follow rule 1 and have a combo that survived. I've also seen others that tried to break rule 2, that followed rule 1, grenade their engines. As for your questions, which you feel are stupid; There is no such thing as a stupid question, only stupid people that didn't ask the question and wound up getting burned because of it. Always keep that in mind so you don't wind up joining the people who got burned.

 

You might actually get away with the ten-bolt for awhile. Depends on how hard you launch, the size of the tires, etc.

I've never seen an HSR that cheap. Sounds like a great price.

The reason I ask about your engine building experience is because my own personal opinion is that plastigage is not going to cut it for an engine as nice as what you are planning (checks drawer for clean nomex underwear and dusts off flame suit). I know a guy that used to build engines for a local drag racer here in So Cal. I can't remember if he has $30,000 or $60,000 worth of tools.

Have you checked out GM's crate motors? Building an engine is definitely an accomplishment, but I've been told that you can buy one of those GM crate motors for less than what you would spend to build something up. You might want to check out the ZZ383/425. It is similar to what you are doing (Fast Burn heads, though) and you can get the short block for a little over $3,000.

Good luck!

 

thats a lot of tools !!! the manifold is waht im going to buy and im going to use hte stock wiring harness and such except the fuel
rails. the manifold and plenum is $300 at summit racing and i heard that the hsr requires special rails which adds another $100.

i really really really want to build it myself. i think it would be a challenge and it cant be that hard since so many of the members have done it before. im not talking about a formula 1 race bred engine.

i should be real nice especial if i get the forged rotating assembly. i want it to last, so i dont think ill use nos. plus i dont like the idea of refilling a bottle. the torque sounds like it'll make for a really good street car.

any suggestions on heads besides the afr 195. i checked the site they dont list having any bare castings .

these any good ?

dart pro 1 (still feeling the pain $$)

or

trick flow specialties 195cc ??


im aslo thinking about using a rev kit with these to limit the valve float at high rpms. worth it or no ?

 

I'll look into the heads before giving an honest answer to that question. As for the hydra-rev kit, in my opinion that's overkill for the combo you're talking about. You shouldn't be anywhere near valve float with a cam in the neighborhood of what we've been talking about.

 

any one have any ideas on the the eads
any one every use any of them before ?

 

As promised, here's the list of heads I think you might want ot check out.
1. Dart Pro 1
2. Edelbrock Performer RPM
3. Holley Systemax
4. World Products Motown 220

They should all be realatively cheap heads with decent airflow characteristics. Hope that helps you out.