ok, heres the story..... early spring i took my engine out... had to do some repairs and such.... took the heads off, put new head gaskets on, put the heads back on... put the engine back in, put everything back on... for the most part, the car trys to start, but most of the time, it dies right after i let off the key. it will start every once in a while, when i play with the timing.... and if i let ot cool down, it wont start....

their is a tremendous amount of smoke that comes from the exhause manafolds, but their is a little oil on it, and i painted the manafolds, whitch might explain the smoke....

i have tried playing with the timing, unplugging the computer timing controll, plugging it back in, thinking that wold work....

last night i put the stock igntion coil on, instead of the accell coil.. and it foesnt fire as good, and couldnt get it to run once.....

im about to the point of running a carb, and i really dont want to do that. my car has been sitting WAY too long for my taste, so im practiacally BEGGING for help here...

thanx

jon

 

Just a thought,but could you have timed the engine to the exhaust stroke instead of the compression stroke?I had a simular problem starting my car after i changed the motor earlier this summer.I pulled the distributor,rotated the engine once,and dropped the distibutor back in.She's been running great ever since...

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86'Camaro Berlinetta SC,former 2.8,now 350 cid,4 bolt main.94'TPI 350 heads(pocket ported),420-442 lift summit cam,cloyes double roller timing set,Modified q-jet carb(e hanger,ch rods)700-r trans(rebuilt)3:42 gears,t-tops,b&m megashifter,grant wheel,fresh headliner,Macewen white face gauges,American racing wheels..Dedicated to those who enjoy scrounging through junkyards more than throwing money for new stuff...

 

ill try that, im willing to try just about anything.... im sure it wasnt on the exhaust stroke, cause both rockers where up. and why would it start every once in a while if it was timed with the exhaust stroke?!

keep the ideas coming, im sick of just staring at my car, wishing it was fixed...

thanx
jon

 

i forgot to mark everything when i pulled the engine.... and i think i have everything plugged in.... just adding a little detail.... the only thing i know thats not plugged in is the emisions.... cause they didnt work anyways, the previous owner chopped them, and i removed the pump when i pulled then engine.... none of the sensors where hooked up before.... and i took the fan out for the a/c / heat. those arent hooked up either. i dont think those would have anything to do with it, but maybe im wrong.... dunno...

jon

 

Jon,

Remind me again, what year/engine do you have?

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Later,
Vader
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Justice and Freedom will Prevail

 

my combo isnt showing up in my messages for some reason.... i have it set in my signiture.... if anyone can explain this to me, id really apreciate it....

87 iroc, 350 tpi, BW t-5, centerforce dual friction clutch. everything is stock, with the exception of a little pollishing of the heada and intake....

jon

[This message has been edited by sunbound (edited September 23, 2001).]

 

so you dont have to take off your valve covers, just rotate the engine with the crank nut while number 1 spark plug is off, with someones or your finger covering the hole. when you start to feel compression, turn the engine over until the timing mark on the harmonic balancer is at 0, then put your distributor in pointing at number 1 spark plug wire. you would be surprised that a SBC can run with mixed up plug wires or off time.

[This message has been edited by u r sofa king we tah did (edited September 23, 2001).]

 

SBC?
ill check the timing mark, and try again.... but i thaughtr with both ro0chers up, it basically meant that both valves where closed, and that was the compression stroke....
i might be wrong, but.... i'll tery the mark... if i can find it...

jon

 

Sometimes it's a little hard to tell that both rockers are up. It's best to turn it over while watching the #1 intake rocker. As that rocker just reaches the top, you should be getting pretty close top TDC. Just continue turning till the mark hits 0. I will usually stop it a few degrees before TDC (what ever initial timing I want) then set the distributor so the rotor is pointing to the #1 plug wire (I put the cap on and make a little mark on the dist. where #1 is, then take the cap off while I drop the dist. in). In over 33 years of engine rebuilding I've never had an engine fail to fire (due to timing) on the 1st bump of the ignition switch.

 

thanx for the suggestions... i got the car to start good now....
it appears that when i changed the head gaskets, i messed something up, cause now my coolant looks really milky, and the car get hot really fast. and it's got no torque. i really wish i had a way to test it before i put the engine back in again, but i lack the money to go it... from what i understand, those testing stands cost about 1000 - 2000 dollers!
so i think im gonna pull the engine, take off the heads, take the and the block to the shop, have the re-deck the heads and the engine, magnaflux the heads, and put everything back together.... tomarrow im gonna call and ask. i might have them port and polish the heads while their at it too.... dont know....

the car is gonna be parked in the back yard this winter, gotta get a covor for it....

if i dont get around to the engine till spring, whats the best way to prep it for storage? just throw a plastic bag over it?

thanx for all your help

jon