ok, let's try this again-- i have a '90 Iroc. TPI, with a 305(or 350, still have to run the engine numbers).

here's the problem--the car runs fine. except during acceleration. you can be stopped on a road, and just slam the gas to the floor(no that's not how i drive), and it doesn't even feel like your moving. let's put it this way, i have to put the gas about 3/4 of the way down just to get up to the speed limit at a decent rate. i know it's just a stock Camaro, but something is up(i did some tests on the backroads around here, my friend's stock Saturn leaves this thing in the dust...).

i replaced the EGR valve and solenoid(engine light--still on but i think it's an O2 sensor). checked for clogged exhaust--it's clear. changed fuel filter, fuel pressure is good. timing is on, i've checked the spark plugs and wires over and over(i've owned the car for about a year--went through 2 sets os spark plugs and 3 sets of wires through people telling me "it could be a problem").

i'm thinking it could be the transmission, but i'm not sure. there's no grinding or anything, but i dunno where else to go with this, the tranny fluid seems right(right color and smell and stuff). but i'm gonna change the filter in it and put new fluid in it this week just to make sure.

any suggestions or secrets into figuring out what the problem could be? any help is appreciated. thanks.

 

Dose your RPM's go up when you "slam the gas to the floor"?

If so It would be your tranny slipping bad. Make sure your TV cable is set right and try again. If your fluid level is right "Warmed up running in park" And your TV cable is set right I would have to say you tranny is toast Hope that is not the case for you.

Good Luck!

 

ugh i figured that would be the case(damn that sucks, i poured about 3 grand into this thing just on tires/suspension stuff since that was all **** when i got the car). thanks for telling me what to look for though.

the RPMs are normal when i stomp the gas. well normal for that violent condition(it shifts at the right time though, though i think it goes a little high in 1st or 2nd gear--i don't do that much at all so i can't remember). oh it's an automatic too. i forgot to say that everytime i stomp the gas the car kind of hesitates.--on a side note i thought for a while that it was shifting roughly out of first, but my "mechanic" friend assured me that it was just me being too paranoid.

the RPM guage kinda jumps around(just the guage, the needle will randomly move around--but the RPMs stay normal though), it's been doing that ever since i replaced the EGR valve though.

i'll check the tranny later today though, if everything seems normal i'll drive it around and give you guys a more accurate description on what it does and stuff.

thanks for the help i really appreciate it.--at least if that's the problem i have it narrowed down, that's a plus i guess

 

sorry i forgot all about this board and this post(been sick)

--checked the tranny fluid it seems fine. right color, right smell and everything. haven't changed the fluid/filter yet, will be doing that soon though.

i'm trying to drive it more and more to see what it does/doesn't do right.

oh yeah, by the way the engine runs at a temp of about 220, i know each car is kinda different and stuff but that's safe right? just seems a little too hot for me(all the other cars i have/had ran at about 180 never above 200).

 

220 degrees is a little hot for your car to run at. You might want to take a look at the thermostat. As for your hesitation, you said you changed the E.G.R. valve right? When you changed it, where did you get the new valve from? If it was G.M., did you remember to get the orifice washer number off the original and put the correct orifice size into the new valve? If you bought it from an autoparts store, are you sure you got the right valve. The orifice size is very, very important to making the car run correctly. It's not uncommon for people to get the wrong size valve. As a matter of fact, I've had to take three back in the past. The autoparts store kept trying to give me the E.G.R. valve for the caprice! If you're not throwing any codes, I'd say to check the valve out. The orifice size will degrade performance, but since it's working, it usually doesn't trip a code.

 

oh no don't say EGR valve please don't! here's the story with mine--none of the auto parts stores around here had an EGR valve(actually, i never even thought about going to the GM place). the type of EGR valve advanced carried didn't fit the intake. after trying to deal with NAPA i had to "special order" it from New York(80 damn bucks).

whoever designed the TPI system should be shot, it was a bitching taking all that crap apart and putting it back together just to change the valve.

but anyways, i'm sure it's not the valve, i changed it because the code for it tripped(with the new one on it's not runnign any different at all, well, it could be just me, but it is a little more responsive). i'm positive that it's an O2 sensor tripping the engine light though, that reminds me i need to replace that.

i'm gonna check the throttle position sensor(or, replace it if it's not too much of a hassle), since i've been hearing people say that but haven't even checked it out yet.

thanks for the help.

 

Quick question. I apologize if you've already answered it in one of the other posts. Does the engine run fine while you're toolin down the road, but when you come to a stop, or try to take off, it becomes a slug that seems like it's flooded? Also, exactly which code did it give you. I can probably help you sort this out, but I'm gonna need a little more info.

 

When you're at cruising speed and then step into the throttle, does the tranny downshift into passing gear? If not, you're TV Cable (a.k.a. Detent Cable) could be disconnected or missadjusted. That would also explain the harsh shifting.

 

Hello
Is it hitting on all the cylinder? Also have you pulled the valve covers to check out what the valve train lookes like. My ta with the 350 tpi had kind of the same problem, and tecs where saying it is this pice and that pice, (tps, computer, egr) you know the runaround. I told the guy pop the valve covers I believe that it is a bent push rod or two. Well he would not because of what the book said to do--that dam book---well i knew better and limped the car home pulled the valve covers and on the passanger side I had 3 bent push rods and 2 bent valves, some dumba$$ put 7/16 ***** in the rockers so they had to much play

later and

GB


rk

 

it's cool about the question i know all my posts are way too long and i really don't list what i've done in anykind of logical way lol.

the car runs fine just cruising down the road, no shaking or anything. when i'm at a stop everything seems to be right(RPM's and the way it idles--is around 1,000 too low of an idle?), if i stomp the gas to the floor it hesitates badly and takes a couple of seconds to actually go, and it gets up to speed really slowly. for ****s and giggles a friend of mine and me went on a back road and "raced" his Saturn and my car(he doesn't care about his car so he rags it out), the Saturn left me in the dust!!

i wouldn't complain about it too much(i mean other than the extreme hesitation it actually seems to run fine), but it makes it extremely hard to pass someone(2 lane country roads are all around here--have to have the gas to the floor to be able to pass someone very slowly).

my brother works at advance so he does the computer thingy, it's always the code for the EGR system, since i replaced the valve itself and the EGR solenoid, he says it's just an O2 sensor(if it helps any, the engine light comes on just a little before the engine gets to operating temp and randomly turns off and on when the engine is at operating temp).

if you need any more info just ask, i've had this car for about a year and have been constantly running in circles, thanks for the help.

 

TV cable huh? i'll see about checking that out too then, thanks.




yeah just about everywhere here has given me the runaround numerous times(hell one place swore it was the differential gears, everything on that damn car is stock!!). bent push rods could do that? it didn't even occur to me that could do that. well i guess it's worth a check at least. would that cause the car to tap some?

 

Rick makes a very good point with the pushrod/rocker arm possibility. It's definately worth checking out. And yes, it would cause a tapping noise, but you would also notice a difference in the exhaust note that would let you know that you weren't firing on all 8. I had the same problem with a 79 riviera, except the rocker arm had come loose and bent my pushrod. Car ran like **** all the time and really sucked down the go-go juice. Come to think of it, have you checked the valve lash lately? I'm sorry to say it, but I'm still thinking that either you need a serious tune-up or that E.G.R. valve isn't the right one. You might want to try calling the autoparts store you bought it at and see if they still have the sale on file. If they do, you could check to see if the part number they ordered for you was the right one. The box the valve came in would be better, but most of us throw them away when we're done. If your codes keep coming up with the E.G.R. system, you're problem is gonna be there. The o2 sensor usually does get trashed by a bad E.G.R. valve, but the o2 has its own code. Do you know what code number you're getting?

 

damn, well back when i gave it a tune up(took it to one of my brother's friends that helped me a little with it and stuff), his words were "damn sounds like it's missin", but after that he really didn't say anything(this was back when we thought the EGR was the problem). now i can't even get him to look at it though.

i'm sure the EGR is the right one(they went through the dealership to get it if i remember right), i actually have the box(with the old EGR valve in it) somewhere around here i'll look for it tonight or tomorrow. so the O2 sensor has it's own code? i'll be able to run to the store and hook the computer to it again Thursday night and i i'll post the code that pops up. again thanks for the help i really appreciate it.

 

It's a pleasure to help out a fellow f-body man. Drop us the code when you get it.

 

sorry the engine code will have to wait till later this week. between one of my close friends trying to commit suicide and my mom getting into a car wreck that damn car has been the last thing on my mind.

is a TPS(throttle position valve) expensive/hard to replace? if not i'm gonna replace that(i think it's the only thing i haven't even checked that i've been hearing from day one. worth a shot i guess), Thursday night i'll get the code and post it on here since my brother works then.

oh, he's determined to convince me that an O2 sensor is setting of the code(he says he remembers it being the EGR code). guess we'll see once i'm able to hook the computer to it again. later.

 

Sorry to hear about all the mayhem you've been experiencing lately. I sincerely hope everything works out in the end with your friend and that your mom is okay. Waitin' for the code is no big deal. Just post it when you can. As for the T.P.S., they're not hard to change, but I wouldn't spend the money on it until I was positive that was the problem. My biggest reason for this is that every once in a great while you'll get an electrical part that's bad from the store. Then it creates more problems and complicates the troubleshooting process you've begun. You can do what you want, it's your money after all. I just wanted to bring that to your attention. I have gotten 2 ignition modules from the parts store that were bad, as well as a fan relay from G.M.

 

thanks i really appreciate it. this is one weekend i hope never happens again.

as for the car, i guess i can wait to get the code and then go from there(well, that seems like the smart move right now). i'll get the code and start going over basically everything you guys mentioned in the thread later in the week. thanks for the help you have no idea how much i appreciate it.

 

No problem.

 

wow this thing is just dragging on and on. ok. i bought a new starter yesterday(it needs it), and the computer at my brother's work is broken(suprise suprise). so i went to the GM place. they wanted around 40 bucks to run a diagnostic check on it. since i figured i paid that place enough with all the "great" work they've done with the car, i'll wait until i'm able to get it done for free and by someone that will try to help me and not screw me over.

i'm putting the starter in tomorrow(hopefully--if it's not raining). and i'll check inside the valve covers to see if everything is straight there if i have the gaskets(i'm pretty sure i do just gotta look for 'em). oh yeah according to the PC at Advanced Auto TPS is only for multi-port engines not TPI(i just wanted to price one for the hell of it).

my brother is convinced that it's something in the distributor. anything anyone can fill me on what he could be talking about? because he just mentions it and then tells me "not to worry about it and just drive it". but i am getting kinda tired of pushing the gas to the floor just to barely pass someone and to get up to the speed limit at a decent rate.

by the way the engine is still running kinda hot(constant 220 when it gets warmed up).

 

Your autoparts store should be able to retrieve your code. Another way to get the code is to take a paper clip and fold it over and insert it into the a and b prong ports on you aldl port that connects to the E.C.M. then turn the ignition key to the on position, but don't start it. The service engine soon light will blink once, then twice about three times. The next flashes will contain any codes the E.C.M. has stored in it's memory. As for the hot running condition, check the air dam underneath the front of the car to make sure it isn't cracked, busted or missing. If it is, get a replacement and your temp should return to normal. The air dam helps the radiator get additional cooling and is kinda important. Let me know where you're at by posting when you're done. And every camaro model from carb to tune port has a T.P.S., so the autoparts store employee doesn't know what the hell he's talking about. I wouldn't let him help me with anything else.

 

that's so awesome, seriously that's MacGuyver type **** i love it! i've somewhat heard about it but i haven't had anyone tell me exactly how to do it, thanks(i take it i just get the code to an auto store and they'll be able to tell me what it is?).

i have the air dam also, i'll check out the thermastat once i get the time.

and thanks for clearing up the TPS issue. the guy at the auto parts store is my brother---complete ****ing idiot. he's half the reason why i get pointed in the wrong direction(can never tell him he's wrong though). thanks i'll just use this to drive the point home to him. maybe pull off the part number and shove it in his face if he doesn't believe me.

i dunno what i'll be able to get done since it looks like it's gonna rain any minute, but i'll keep you guys updated.

 

When you get the code, just post it. Either someone else or myself can tell you what it is. As for your brother, follow the following procedure:

 

my buddy had a sluggish 98 and he fixed it by punching out his catalytic converters

 

thanks, i told my bro about it today and he says that he knew it. i know he's a moron, but i think it's mostly him being jealous(he's always wanted an Iroc). so now that i finally got it through my thick skull; i'd rather go back to the incapable money grubbing hands of the GM place again than listening to anything he has to say again.

i'll post the code in the next day or two.

 

 

another thing you could do to get the code, works awesome http://winaldl.joby.se/

 

ok, sorry for the wait, this week was damn long but hell if i had any time to do anything. i managed to finally replace the starter(that was a bitch--who's damn idea was it to put the exhaust in the way of the starter?) nice to have my car start with just one turn of the key.

oddly the day i was able to do something was one of the days my brother was working at the store, so i just swung by there and got 2 codes from the ECM.

the first was for the EGR(code 32). i really don't wanna go through all the trouble of getting and replacing another damn EGR valve since that one is only like a month old, any suggestions?

the second was for the ESC(Electric Spark Control Module).--code 43. the thing is, i replaced that when i gave that car the tune up.

of course my brother couldn't give me any help, but the other guy there said there's some section in the Haynes manual that goes over the codes and what could be setting them off. i'll go through that one and my Chilton book and see what i can find.

would any of this be the couse of my acceleration problem(i know the EGR would, but the ESC?)

 

The E.S.C. system could very likely cause the car to run real slow. The code 43 you received is the result of the E.C.M. losing the E.S.C. signal and retarding your timing. You're gonna have to use a Voltmeter to check for continuity in the wire plugged into the Knock Sensor. If it has continuity, and the wire isn't losing it's signal, check the connections at the Knock Sensor and the E.C.M. to make sure they're good and free of corrosion. If they are, replace the knock sensor and see if that makes the code go away and restores performance. If it doesn't, you might have to replace the E.C.M. The code 32 that you got for the E.G.R. valve means you have some checking to do. Check and replace if necessary, the Vacuum hose that goes between the valve and the solenoid. Then start checking those electrical connections to make sure you don't have a open or short in the circuit. If you don't find a problem there, you're gonna have to troubleshoot the valve and solenoid to see if they're the problem. Your Chilton's manual should have that procedure. If they pass the tests, then it's possible that you have a bad E.C.M. The strange thing about both of these codes is that either could be set by a bad E.C.M. which makes the E.C.M. a very possible suspect in your case. Let me know what you find out.

 

damn sounds like i'm gonna be busy, again thanks for the info i really appreciate it. over the course of the weekend and week i'll check what you said out and post what i find and what i have to fix/replace and what not. hope to get all this done as soon as possible, wish me luck!

 

Good luck! And

 

instead of replacing a bunch of crap... let's do some tests!!



1st thing's first... when have you replaced your PCV valve last? Been a while? Take it out and shake it. Does it jiggle freely still? Or is it like a solid piece? It should freely jingle the weight inside of it.

They're a good idea to replace at every tuneup, and can cause a lot of hesitation and off-idle problems.




Check the distributor... lot and lots and lots... should probably try checking out your ignition coil first.

and I know that this picture is for V6's, but the same outputs should read the same... the ports just may look different on your HEI distributor.

 

A lot of checking has already gone on sellmanb. 2 codes were found and one has to with the E.G.R. valve that was just replaced. The other has to do with his E.S.C. system. Both could be attributed to his E.C.M. so instead of replacing it, he's gonna check the connections to make sure none are loose, dirty or anything else. I've seen this problem before on this site and the guy fixed it by cleaning the connection to his E.C.M. The E.C.M. gets blamed for a lot of stuff way too often, so I'm having him check out a couple of last things. If you have any idea of voltage level for the Knock sensor or ways to test the E.C.M. itself, feel free to chime in. Everyone in here appreciates it. I'm not trying to be a jerk or nothing, I just wanted to let you know that there have been some testing. We're not just buying parts at random to try to fix the problem.

 

actually i never mentioned it but i replaced the PCV valve a day or so after the tune up(ironically that was when i was going by ear on what i "should" replace rather than just looking at the engine light and testing things).

i'm trying to get in touch with a buddy of mine that has a Voltmeter, but i think i'll just ahve to go out and buy my own(the tools i have are very limited so i don't mind spending the money on more stuff i need now and possibly will need in the future). been busy this weekend with yard work and odd chores but i'm gonna start checking that stuff out as soon as i get a chance to (even printed everything out so i can have it on hand). appreciate the help, thanks, later.

 

Glad to help my man. Trust me, buying a Voltmeter is one of the best investments you can make. Make sure you get a good one like the Actron III professional. I have one and it has paid for itself many times over already.

 

stupid question--Actron Digital Multimeter will work right? picked it up earlier since i was in town(60 damn bucks!). just wanna make sure it's what i need before i open it up and tinker with it.

 

Is it yellow and a little bit longer than your hand? If it is and it says professional series, then yes. It should git-r-done.

 

it's a little shorter than my hand and black--on the back of the box it says it tests fuel injectors, sensors, alternators, spark plug wires, ignition and charging systems, battery condition and cranking voltage.

haven't opened it yet since the people that work at the Sears here don't seem to know the return policies from their asses. it's the only thing close to what i've seen a Voltmeter look like(my oldest brother used to do electrical work and had like 2 or 3 of them--this looks the same but smaller and black). i'll check it out when i get the time to.

 

Dam sure sounds like low fuel pressure! Rev's up all the way to redline but doesn't seem to go or have any power. What did your fuel pressure read when you tested it? I had the same problem and after I tested it (the last thing I did because I was convinced it could only be electronic problems) and put a new fuel pump in, it ran like I had a new engine!

 

yeah i got people saying that a lot(from bad fuel pump to bad fuel injectors). bought a fuel pressure guage and checked it a couple of weeks ago and it was well in range with what the Haynes book said it should be.

 

Sounds like you got the right piece of equipment. Give her a go around and see what you find out.