What other things can be done to the car to make it faster, without doing anymore motor work which I have already done what I can without N20 or a supercharger. I've come up with these things but would like to know what else there is to consider

Rear end gearing
Tires
Weight reduction
Learning to drive you car

Also, what else can be done to the car for weight reduction that will have the most impact? I've completley gutted the car including everything in the engine bay (AC/Heater never worked anyway) I've removed all interior and carpet, all the stock wiring. The biggest thing I can thing of is the hood and front fenders. I have light weight wheels already.

The only thing going back in the car is the engine (and accessories), and the two front seats along with the dash.

 

Make sure you have it tuned perfectly.

 

you have to tune the car?!!!

j/k. Yeah i know that much, but i'm talking mainly about sticking the power to thr ground, helping acceleration, etc.

 

Tuning will help noticeably with acceleration

Suspension work, check out the suspension board for ideas.

 

what about weight reduction? any ideas?

 

Check out the bottom of page 3 on my cardomain site in my sig for a few ideas. I'd post some more up here but I'm off to get a haircut, I'll post some later.

 

That's a pretty desperate weight reduction measure.

 

Well ya know what they say, every little bit counts. It all adds up in the end. Couple hundred pounds here, couple ounces there, ya know.

lol, actually its so I don't look like I'm out of an 80s hair band Well not that bad I guess...

Hmmm now let me go look at my cardomain site and see whats on there because I changed a ton of stuff in the last few days with my engine being out.

 

A dual plane intake instead of that Torker II.

 

was waiting for u to say that hehe

The reason I chose the torker II was because 1. I was originally gonna get a torker II cam (which i did, but sent back) and 2. because desktop dyno showed an increase of HP with a single plane instead of an increase of TQ with a dual plane. I figured I could up the HP a bit more. That was my thinking anyway, i'm sure you will tell me why i'm wrong

 

Because you don't have enough stall to get into the Torker power band.

 

what kind of stall are we talking about? I dont want to try and street 3000 stall. I have a 2200 brake stall rated converter which is prob 2400-2600 flash stall rated

 

shedding pounds is detailed here. I'd put an emphasis on those that reduce rotational weight, such as carbon fiber (if you can afford it) or aluminum driveshaft. I'd definately look into some tubular suspension parts (esp. rear lower control arms, panhard bar, torque arm). And then of course you could shoot for an LS1 and drop 100 something lbs off your front end. Combine the Spohn front K-member w/ LS1 mounts (or stock mounts if you desire) and maybe some tubular front control arms and a trick coil-over setup and you'll be set.

Damn I sound like an advertisement.

 

Desktop Dyno modelled a typical single plane, not an abomination like the Torker II. The Torker is a short runner, small plenum single plane. It combines the dual plane's lack of high-rpm breathing capability with the loss of low-rpm torque found in a single plane, all in one convenient aluminum package.

 

lol. Finally someone explained why it was a bad manifold. Thanks. I will be getting a performer or better manifold, but after I take it to the dyno I would like to see the difference.

 

suspension, suspension, suspension.

You can have a 500hp motor, but with the stock 20 year old suspension (that wasnt that great on non-IROC cars in the first place, brand new) you wont get near as good times as the 300hp guy w/ slicks and a bunch of Spohn parts