K guys i was having an issue with my car running for about 5 minutes then dying. Didnt just die it would slowly lose RPM and then die. This happened and the time it would actually run got smaller and smaller. Now it has good compression, timing is lined up perfect (#1 at tdc matched up with rotor poiting to the #1 spark plug wire) getting plenty of fuel @ at carb friendly 7 psi. Now im 99.9 percent sure its ignition related. Thing is before i was not running a ballast resistor and the engine being new i didnt do a long drive until farely recently to a dyno shop. Happened to die there the first time . So running a mallory hyfire VI ignition box (brand new) to a mallory coil dont remember the part # but its compatible (brand new) to an old mallory unilite distributor. So checked for spark at the coil wire and shes sparking like the 4th of july. Checked for spark at the ends of some spark plug wires and also getting spark. Does not look to be as strong as the spark im getting from the coil wire but none the less. Spark plugs gapped at .040. So my question is is it possible i some how ruined my distributor by not running a ballast resistor. Because right now i have no idea what else could be the problem. Valves are all opening and closing as they should. Could i have f*cked somethin up in the distributor by it having a full 12v at all times even tho its not supposed to? Or is my problem else where and if so what? Thanks guys.

 

You can burn up points by not having a ballast resistor.

Have you checked the points in the distributor?

(That's a loaded question, BTW.)

 

No points in the Unilite, is there?...But still may need the reduced voltage to stay alive...


Didn't GM eliminate the ballast resistors for the 70's HEI's with the "start" and "Run" terminals on the solenoids, or is that for a different reason?

 

 

Okay you funny old bast***, just enlighten me...my mind has faded and I haven't had a 70's GM for 15 years (thank goodness for that)

Oh, BTW, I think my '57 PU can be your car...so nana-nana

 

right no points in the unilite. Imma go back out and see if shes flooded or what i hope its that easy at least to get her started. Ill feel dumb if its that lol

 

Check for spark first. I even have my 10YO daughter help me here

I've a guess at the carb, but would rather wait until you see if spark is present.

You know the old saying, right? (back when we only had carbs)..

Most iginition problems are due to the carb, and most carb problems are due to the ignition...

 

k guys well it LOOKs as if all the plugs are bad. I checked for spark at the coil and at the ends of the spark plug wires. All were fine, did this with and with out the ignition box and still nothing. So i pulled the plugs and pluged them into the spark plug wires and turned her over again. And theres like no spark. I mean there is but its not jumping like its supposed to its lik sparking inside. So imma get some new plugs and let you guys know. Thanks

 

That sounds like the wires going to the plugs not doing their job, not the plugs man. When you put the plugs into the wires to check them did you ground them?

 

yes i did, those plugs are recommended as the starting plugs by Air Flow Research (autolite 3910s) but are the coldest plug they offer so imma bump it up 2 heat ranges, i remember other people were having issues with them as well with sputtering n dying n stuff. The wires (MSD 8.5mm) are doing a fine job like i said i checked those as well and it sparks fine.

 

so new plugs, sparking, fuel ... still not working guess its time to re ajust my valves (solid cam) and then align the distributor to it. If that doesnt work f*ck guess i gotta pull her and see was up