Monkie

Ok swaping a V8 into a V6 car. Which would cost more? TPI engine or a Carb engine? What would the prices be about? And why?

Mark A Shields

Are you talking used TPI parts? If new I would say the TPI would be way more expensive by the time you do computer work and get the TPI. You can get a carburetor for $200 and Non-CC distributor for $180. So I would think that carb. would be cheaper.

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"Rice burners are like tampons...Every pu$$y has to have one"
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite

Monkie

Yes I would be using used TPI stuff. I kinda know what I would need for the TPI setup and so could someone tell me just about everything i would need for the carb setup? And I would want a decent amount of power to start off with either way. (250hp+ and atleast 250torque too to start off with) So please guys give me some help!!!!!!!!!! Thanks!

85 Berl

Are you talking a whole new engine or just new induction? If you're switching from FI to carb, you can get a Holley or Edel. carb for about $200, and a non-CC distributor for around $100 from the parts store. You would need the new dist. because the computer won't have the info it needs to control the timing. Oh... and a mech fuel pump. There may be more, but that's all I know.

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Jeff

'85 Berlinetta, Special Beater Edition
Mods include a 4bolt 350 with 280*, .460 lift cam, Vortec heads, Comp Cams roller tip rockers, Edelbrock TES headers, no other exhaust . Also, rusted parts on all 4 corners, and crumpled fenders, thanks to the previous owner.

Monkie

V6 to V8

iroc5speed

v6 is fuel injected correct? I'm guessing so. So you would need to bypass the in tank pump, run a pump on the side of the block, get a v8 with a carb intake manifold, a new carb, and a distributer.

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'86 IROC 5-speed
305 LG4
edelbrock performer rpm intake
edelbrock 600 cfm carb
msd pro billet hei distributer
'95 3.23 rearend
hotchkis rear suspension
PST front polygraphite suspension
"speed kills. buy a f@&d, live forever."

Monkie

So you would need to bypass the in tank pump, run a pump on the side of the block

What do you mean? How different is the fuel injection?

What would be the best type engine to put a carb on? What kind of 350 or 383? I don't want anything crazy right now just something to give me some power until I can get some extra cash for the fuel injection swap.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

If you've got a V6 car and want a V8, the cheapest way to get there is to sell your V6 car and put the money towards buying a factory V8 car.

There has to be something very special or sentimental about the V6 car to go through this. Saving money is not one of the reasons.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4. 2.93 limited slip. 2-1/2" cat-back, ZZ3 intake, Accel HEI SuperCoil. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily driver, work-in-progress (LG4 CC system w/'87 LB9 block, ZZ3 cam, ported World 305 heads, Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback, restalled TC, Spohn SFCs).
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7 CR forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 600 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).

RB83L69

I was waiting for someone to say that... the cheapest, best, easiest, most effective, least hassle, most reliable, most thorough way to turn a V6 car into a V8 car is to sell the one and buy the other. You'll spend as much on the swap as you would on a whole car, because to do it right, you need a whole car; anything you can get out of your existing car will simply lower the cost further.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

Monkie

D'oh!!! I MEANT to ask "how do I buy a V8 car and sell my V6?" Silly me!

Z28DJP1987

More trouble then its worth V-6 to V-8. Sell this car and buy a 350TPI. To many Headaches!

94-6spd

Don't listen to them. All you need to do is look around for the parts you need. There will be brackets and things that you'll have to find. My car wasn't a V6 car but there was no motor or tranny in it when I started. I went to junkyards every now and then as I needed a part. If you are not in a big hurry it will help. As for the question for TPI and Carb...the TPI will definitely be higher.

Z28DJP1987

One more suggestion, if you want to keep the
V-6 car, SUPERCHARGE IT. More performance and
might be cheaper.

[This message has been edited by Z28DJP1987 (edited October 08, 2001).]

Monkie

I know what you mean man. And I obv want to do that swap asap but I have time because I have another car that could prolly rape the **** out of their cars (and yes its a V8 too! can you say, LT1?). I want to do this swap cause I want a project. The V6 was my first car and means alot to me. So could you guys HELP ME WITH THE SWAP please? Thanks!

PS: 94-6spd thanks for the back up man!

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Okay, you meet the "sentimental" test. You are in for a project. The earlier comments were offered because you didn't give adequate information pertaining to your motives. And, "cheapest" was in the topic.

Cheaper: Carb. Especially if you're going after 4th gens.
If you need to meet emissions: Probably TPI, depending upon year of your car.
Better: Your call; carb is 60's tech, TPI 80's. Really depends upon what you want to do with it when you're done. Best compromise between power, economy and driveability is probably TPI modified with aftermarket parts.

What you need (assuming no emissions and carb):

Move engine mounts on front crossmember to front bolt holes and get V8 engine halves; move brake line to the back of the crossmember or get a V8 piece; V8 versions of the following: transmission, flexplate or flywheel, accessory brackets (alternator, power steering pump, etc.), radiator, throttle cable, TV cable, cruise cable, exhaust from the heads to the rear bumper; fuel pump and lines (depends on what you have now and what you're going to); front springs (some say they kept the V6 pieces - couldn't be happier with the change in ride & handling when I finally changed mine to V8); front sway bar (ditto springs comment); harness unless you don't go emissions and are willing to trace & splice the V6 stuff; any hose, including vacuum, that goes to the engine. If you have AC, hoses. If you go TPI, computer, harness, TPI setup, in-tank fuel pump (unless your V6 is MPFI).

Things you don't have to change:
Rear end, brakes, struts, wheels, AC condensor or evaporator, steering wheel, stereo...

This list has been done before. The extent of it is why it is recommended to get a complete donor car, even if you don't use the engine out of it.