Well, she just won't start, won't turn over, the starter is just clicking again, I've inspected and looked over all the wires I can see and I see no problems.
I don't know what to do.
I am on my tird starter in 6 months so I am beggining to think its not the starter.
I'm stuck here until I get it started.

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1 5/8 Hooker Competetion Headers, custom y-pipe,no cat, modified Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

If all connections are good, clean, and tight, and all the cables look good (no cracks or obvious damage/corrosion) Then i would look at the battery. Even if it looks good on a voltmeter it can still have a dead cell and not be able to produce the current you need to get started.
Try getting a jump, if it starts on that i vote for a shot battery. If it's old, it may have just been it's time. If it's not that old (less than a couple years) then you mioght have another problem that is killing you battery like a weak alternator or a constant draw.
It is possible to just keep getting bad starters though (it's also possible that your headers are cooking them). A good example are the reman starters from pep boys. They come with a lifetime warranty for a reason, because you will have to replace it at least every 6 months. If you can't afford to be stranded, perhaps you should look into a quality new unit.

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Ed Maher - Moderator @ The TPI & Carb Boards
92 Z28 Convertible - Quasar blue / Tan top
305 TPI A4 2.73 - 14.8 @ 93.1
Stock except ported plenum and dual cats
-=ICON Motorsports=-

- Definitely prototypes, high powered mutants of some kind. Too weird to live, too cool to die

 

The starter problem is older than the headers so I don't think that this is the cause. The current starter on it is one from autozone which I bought brand new and installed it just over 2 weeks ago. The altenater I replaced about a month ago, also a brand new unit. The battery is a little over a year old. Baterry I guess will be my next step, but when this happened before it sometimes eventually started after many attempts. Hopefully it will this time. but its been a while and it still won't start.

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1 5/8 Hooker Competetion Headers, custom y-pipe,no cat, modified Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

I'd definatly check the battery as Ed has already suggested. Its definatly not a heat soak problem and SHOULDN'T be a starter problem... Maybe a short to ground somewhere..? Draining the battery?

 

hey buddy, i had the same problem with my elky last year and man ill tell u i feel bad. nothing like havin a kickass car taht wont start. i was the laughin stock of the dang school. i found out after four starters and two alternators that the battery terminals were shot and the battery was dead as a door nail. get some new terminals and a new battery and u will be back in business.

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86 berlinetta
350cui w/.30 over
.526 hilift cam
hooker supercomps
3" duals
edelbrock streetmaster
holley 750 dp
bad asshauler

 

Well I just got a jump from someone, at least tried to but no go, there was no change, sa,e clicking sound, only thing I can notice is the the rubber is worn on the positive cable, but theres not much corrosion at all. If I can push one wheel on an icline i may be able to give the selonoid a good whack. maybe its the spring

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1 5/8 Hooker Competetion Headers, custom y-pipe,no cat, modified Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

Did you take the battery out and go have it tested? Sometimes they get so low, they won't start your car even with a jump. SO, pull it out, take it to Autozone or some such and have them test it. It might just need re-charged or it might have a dead cell.

 

Check the ground to the battery, if this is loose at all there will be no start even with a jump.

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"Rice burners are like tampons...Every pu$$y has to have one"
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite

 

Well the headlights are strong as are the interior lights, so I dont know if its a lack of power, granted the starter requires a lot of power, i'd think it would do something if it were a power issue, or am I wrong?

 

try getting a rock or a hammer of some sort and see you you can tap on the starter a couple of times.

 

Alright, well I was out there and managed to get a few good whacks at the selenoid with a ratchet. After doing that I got something different, I could hear the starter engage into the flywheel and I sthought it would crank, but It didn't I got about 3 of these and then after that I got the click again. I repeted this process about a dozen times, so I just got back inside. thought I'd update and get your thoughts on this.

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1 5/8 Hooker Competetion Headers, custom y-pipe,no cat, modified Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

I guess its time for a new starter, hard to believe a $120 starter only lasts 2 weeks, good thing it has a lifetime warranty, pain to take in and out though in a low car. Especially when you have to do it in the parking lot at work(2 weeks ago) or at school(today I guess). I have to drive this thing to PA in a month to get it repainted, wonder If I should bring a spare starter with me?
Damn this sucks.

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1 5/8 Hooker Competetion Headers, custom y-pipe,no cat, modified Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

I feel your pain... I think we've all been there at some point in time.

Since you've replaced the starter recently - is it possible the connections on the starter itself are loose/dirty?

Is there a mechanics class at your school? Maybe you and a couple buddies could push it over to the shop and use the equipment there to help diagnose it. The shop instructor would probably help you figure it out.

 

Well this University was basically built by Ford and there are a few auto labs around. But, most have to do with tech research, not repair. I was looking for one of my proffesors, who teach one of my Mech Engin. classes and also teaches an auto Engin seminar but no luck. It would be nice to get it up on a lift instead of doing it on the ground, especially when it looks like its about to rain.

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1 5/8 Hooker Competetion Headers, custom y-pipe,no cat, modified Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

Well its done, I replaced the starter and got back home. I still curious what would make 3 starters go bad in less then 6 months when the origional one lasted 9 years.

Thanks to everyone who responded

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1 5/8 Hooker Competetion Headers, custom y-pipe,no cat, modified Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

Clicking sound = Dead Cell Battery

 

Sounds like you should hook up a remote starter solenoid. I am not sure why, but it appears that you are toasting starter solenoids which I would say is common because of the headers, but you said it started before the header install. Either way, a remote solenoid will prevent the stock location solenoid from keeping you stranded ever again. Summit sells a kit for about $40 or you can just pick up a Ford fender-mounted solenoid, a new cable to go from the new solenoid to the old one, and a piece of metal that you can drill two holes in to short out the old solenoid. The stock wiring that goes down to the starter will reach if you mount the new remote solenoid on the passenger fenderwell. I put mine between the coolant overflow tank and the inner fender. I think there is a tech article on this procedure on the main page. I used the build-your-own method I described above and I have had no problems with starting since. This mod will not stop the actual starter motor itself from failing, but the solenoid is the culprit 90% of the time anyways.

Good Luck.....

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1987 GTA L98 MD8
355, TFS Heads, LT4 Hot Cam
My GTA

The Minnesota F-body Club

 

oh yeah definitely get a heat shield for ur starter. those headers sure do do a number on them solenoids there.

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86 berlinetta
350cui w/.30 over
.526 hilift cam
hooker supercomps
3" duals
edelbrock streetmaster
holley 750 dp
bad asshauler

 

I will definitely have to look into that. That may be my weekend project.
Thanks for your help guys I really appreciate it.

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1 5/8 Hooker Competetion Headers, custom y-pipe,no cat, modified Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires

 

This may seem out of place, but trust me....


Do you have an alarm on your car?

My RS had the EXACT same symptoms.... went through 3 starters before I figured it out....
Someone had suggested that I check the ignition wires to my alarm system. Well, one day I got stuck at a gas station, and decided to yank the alarm module clean out!
Havent had a problem yet.

Hopefully you wont have the problem again, but if you do, and you do have an alarm... That is what I would suggest trying...

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http://kiztope.50megs.com
92 Pontiac Firebird Formula 5.7/A4
K&N, nothing else yet!

92 Rs 3.1/T-5
Beautiful car, several mods, but now I am turning attention to the 'bird!

AIM : Theonekiztope
ICQ: 8787542

"Maybe one day life will take a turn. When it does Lean into it!" Leon Calrinsky (98)

 

I in fact do have an alarm, its a code alarm.
That sucks that it could be the culprit, that thing cost some money. Any dea how/why it would do this?

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1 5/8 Hooker Competetion Headers, custom y-pipe,no cat, modified Flowmaster,Edelbrock open filliment filter with K&N filter in it
160 stat, BF G-Force w-rated tires