I've had my iroc sitting for about 4 months - it wouldn't start - I've changed plugs, wires rotor, dist. cap.

So I unhooked the first spark plug from the drivers side and inserted a fresh plug in - no spark.

I hooked a plug from the wire that goes to the center of the distributor cap and plugged it into a spark plug with the other end hooked up to (I'm not sure if I'm correct) the ignition coil?? and still no spark. Any ideas or is the art that feeds into the center of the distributor cap bad? Am I also correct that this is an ignition coil?


Help me please, my iroc wants back on the road.

 

new ignition control module - the other was bad - no change

what next?

 

now youre sure it has nothing to do with the starter...will it crank?

 

OK we'll give the long sordid tale to get everyone up to speed though no one replied to me a few months ago when this ordeal started.

Car - 1990 Iroc - 305 - automatic

Car had been sititng in the garage for one year. It had starting problems but I kind of let it sit. Fuel was just about on empty. 6 months ago manged to get it working (dead fuses, was too lazy to check before - I have no better excuse)

Durinjg the two weeks it was working-

Refueld twice - so old gas is gone - was filled with premium
Got oil change, including filter and all fluids checked and lubed

Went out a couple days after the oil change can died on me - jumped out and made sure it was getting air and the fuel was pumped- managed to get it started from under the hood (I have a remote starter switch)

At this point I changed the back shocks and changed the rims and tires. Drove 3 miles on the car and came home after checking the shocks - I picked up my wife for her to see the improved ride - we get 1/2 mile the car stopped - after an hour I got it started again and it went 1/4 mile. From there I had to push it home 1/2 mile on the back roads.

At this point

Checked and rechecked fuses - various times - most recently today

Replaced fuel filter - 6 months ago
replaced plugs - 6 months ago
Replaced distributor cap - today
Replaced rotor- today
Replaced ICM - tested bad at autozone replaced 2 hours ago

Tried spraying starter fluid in the throttle body - tried 6 months ago before knowing the ICM was bad -will be trying this again tommorow.

It pretends it wants to turn over but nothing - which when all else fails fall down to the three things you need - fuel, spark, and oxygen - which I'm trying to verify


Now current theory is that the ground I pushed the plug against - exhaust manifold sucks due to rust build up so this may be why I'm not seeing spark. I'm going to run a wire from the negative battery terminal tommorow to the end of the spark plug and try the test again and see if it produces a spark.

As for the security light it comes on then goes off like it always had - so the VATS is psuedo cleared


Fianlly to get eh error codes unless I hooked up to the wrong connector here is what happened - I hooked up to pins 6 and 12 nothing happened - I then hooked up pins 5 and 6 (since the faq said some newer cars needed these 2 brideged) - when I did this the fan came on when I turned the key.

Now what have I missed and what else can I tell you guys that may help?

 

Forget running a ground wire, hookup a timing light to a plug wire and look for the light to flash. Still no sprak, check the resistance of the pickup coil, specd between 500-1500ohms.

 

I'm sorry, let me apologize for not dropping everything on that day to check in and help you fix your car for no charge. My wife and kids mean nothing to me right? I have to have you foremost in my mind so as to anticipate every problem you will have so that I can come hold your hand and walk you through it. What in the world was I thinking?!? Must have been that anti-seize Vader slipped into the pancake mix... Yes, this sort of thing irks a few of us and we mainly won't answer thusly antagonized. That said, I'm feeling magnanimous so....

What pray tell did you use to goop the back of the ignition module? Did you have it tested before you left the parts store? (Go ahead, ask any of us why I ask, you'll cry) Checked the coil (typically I'm lazy and have a few extras lying around, so I just swap 'em, IIRC they go for a whopping $8-12) Have you verified fuel pressure? What the hell is the car setup? Codes should be pins A and B top row right two pins. IIRC Tin Man (aka Vader) has a nice picture or three floating around. Pin G get 12 volts to verify fuel pump operation (and pressure). That's how it's been on the dozen or so I've owned, though haven't had a 90 yet.

Mmmmkay?

 

If you have a spare ignition key that hasn't been used, try using it to start the car. The chip in your current key may have worn down enough to create a problem with the V.A.T.S. Believe it or not, I had the same problem. Post back if to let us know if something fixed it, or everybody struck out.

 

For red devil - I wasn't trying to be a smart *** I was attempting (being a network technician) attempting to narrow the problem down as much as possible

I used the grease that came with the ICM to place on the back and put it onto the distributor

I tested the part before it left the store - the tech showed me what my part should be doing and used this one instead.

I don't have an extra coil - BTW are you referring to the pickup or ignition coil? - and am I correct in assuming the iginition coil is the part that hooks up from the wire (spark plug type wire) from it to the distributor cap?

I have not verified fuel pressure since I don't have a guage and I don't want to spray gas all over by doing the poor mans push down the schrader valve check.

AFAIK the car setup is mostly stock the only thing I ever found that hte previous owner did was hook up the remote start button.

Plant protection - unforfutantely I don't have a timing light - but I did do the wire to the negative battery terminal - still no spark - so I beleive I'm still not getting fire.

Ircoracer07 - I'm looking like crazy for the second key but haven't found it yet.


THe guy at the parts store stated the next step would be the pickup coil - since you need to remove the distributor to get this part off - I'm concedding defeat and takiing into the mechanic unless I find the second key today and that works. I don't have time to screw up the timing now by mismarking slightly. I have 6 weeks until I move 2500 miles and I need this car running at least long enough to get it on a trailer.


Then when I move into the house we are buying I would be more eager to take out the distributor - since you can gather from myself not know positively what the ignition coil is I'm still a novice mechanis but have been cutting my eye teeth on f-bodies for 6 years now - slowly I'll be able to fix what ever is wrong with them and not anything else though.

 

update

Bought a test light - no light from the spark plug wires - no light from the ignition coil

new ignition coil - still no light from the test light

I do get a light plugging into the ground side of the ignition coil - I got this on the old igintion coil also


VATS time I guess - will the VATS stop power from the spark plug like terminal of the ignition coil?

I do know unplugging the VATS fuse kills the starter - trying to trce the problem now from this point.

 

The V.A.T.S. system kills the ignition so people can't start your car without the chip. So yes, it could be your whole problem. I had my dash torn apart trying to figure it out. The one thing that took be totally by surprise was that the starter wouldn't even kick over. If your starter does kick over, then I'd check teh wiring to the Distributor and the ignition coil. If you have a car manual there should be detailed instructions on how to test the ignition coil. The pick up coil should also be tested at this time. I'll break it down for you.

Pick-up coil test
1. Take off the cap and rotor.
2. Disconnect the pick up coil wiring connector. Do this carefully.
3. Check for continuity between the connector terminals and the
Distributor body. (If you have continuity you're shorting to
ground and you're gonna have to replace the pick up coil.
4. Measure the resistance next. It should be between 500-1500
Ohms. Flex the wires on the pick up coil while you're doing this
to see if that changes the resistance.

If your pick up coil is shot and you don't want the hassle of replacing it, just buy one of the cheapies from the autoparts store. It'll get the car where you're going and that's all you care about, right. Well, that will Git-R-Done,lol. This is also a lot faster since you're only pulling the Distributor out and putting the new one in. Just remember to have the rotor pointing in the 4:30 position which we call #1 plug wire tower. This will make it even easier. Then all you have to do is reset your timing right quick and you're done.

It would be easier for you to get directions on checking your ignition coil from a manual. I don't have any diagrams I could post to aid you in where to place your ohmeter leads. Let us know how it goes.

 

Could be your ecm check resistance on your injectors bad injectors can burn the ecm. They should test around 16-16.8 ohms lower than 10 is bad. I have had similar problems with mine and also have had vats problems. When i had vats problems the car wouldnt even crank so i dont think that is the issue here.

 

 

since this thread got bumped and I got an email that it was replied to

For everyon'es FYI - the distributor had gone bad.