I was going to go with the Xe282Hr cam, but since it makes its high power up in the high rpm range, I figured that will hurt me down low in the 1/4.

Anyone know off the top of their head how much $$ the comp afr 195 cc heads cost. I know how much the base models cost (1300)

Ok so back to my cam choice. I already bought the valvesprings for the 282 cam I was going to go with. Which are the specs here

comp 987 dual valve springs, (Specs- O.d 1.430/ i.d .697) (121@1.800 installed seat load) (Open load 388@1.200) (Coil Bind 1.150) (Rate Lbs/In. 1.150) (Titanium Retainer 730) (Steel Retainer 740) (Shims 4754)

I'm trying to hit low 12's if not better high 11's. And some people are saying it wont happen with that 282 cam. I would like to use those valvesprings so I don't have to go with other ones. What do you guys think I shoudl do.

The motors going to be carbed 750, t56. Shooting for 450-500hp. Hopefully the afrs will help me out. Do yous think I should stick with this cam(282hr), or get a different one? If so what and why. I'm curious. I already got those valvesprings along with the titanium retainers ugh.

 

AFR lists the 195 street heads at $1299
the competition heads list at $1974 and have 20cfm more flow overall

Here are the 282 cam specs from Comps website http://www.compcams.com/Technical/Se...umber=08-432-8 and is what is on or would be on your cam card.

Overall that is a nice street cam, actual duration is low enough to be streetable and provide brakes. The specs on that cam will make your engine a torquey thing from about 3K-5500 so rpm is just abour right for you dual combination purpose of street strip. With the right intake (I'd recommend a vic jr personally with 1" 4 hole spacers) you will not igve up any power under 3K and it will have a nice idle (lil loppey but not too bad)

The springs you currently have area actually a step above recommended per cam specs so your fine there, but it's usually cheaper initally just ordering the heads complete and they will be able to install a set of springs that will suit that cam just fine-keep your for back up. and like I said before, since this is a hyd roller, you need to get a rev kit to really maximize the combination, it makes the lifters follow the cam lober better at higer rpms. Granted this thing is'nt going to spin a whole lot to make good power so your good there, but that extra spring pressure WILL help!!

You've read my bit about cams already, there are better out there that will make more power without losing drivability, it will come down to how valve events get ground. If you want to err on the safe side,, this AFR headed combo/cam you have picked out will work just fine-not maximized by any means, but you'll go faster than you've gone before so you will be happy. Then when your ready to really step it up, the heads you have are a good base to build on, then just get a bumstick that'll get you where you'll want to be in the future since going this fast will get boring after about 1 month of driving it.

It'll definatel get you into the mid to low 12's with sticky tires and good driving.

Edit: just did an extrememly quick run with that cam in my DDyno, 355, 10.5 comp., 750cfm carb, small tube header with mufflers, I used my head flow specs since the competition 195's are pretty close to that, etc...the 450hp goal is attainable, granted everything else will come into play of hitting/exceeding that mark, but it give you an idea.

 

Hmm, i was hoping to hear more from then just IHI but its cool man.

goodness, thats a lot of more money I thought it would be. I think I may just go with the street heads.

hm I dont want to use their damn parts. I want to build the heads using my own. I see yeah that their spring pockets are opened up too much for my valvesprings. So I can't use those. I wanted to build everything how i wanted hmm

And actually to think of it, their valvesprings are so closely matched But not exact. What I think i'm going to do is, change a cam choice and look to see what spring is exactly matched for that cam and hope for it to be 1.450 o.d. since my valve spring is 1.430. Are you sure they couldnt use a spring cup , or is that too much of a difference. For some reason I want to stay with all hyd roller stuff.

I forget did you say that the bullet cams were hyd roller?

I hope getting the base street heads dont hurt me too much, but if I'd change cam that might help me . Like you said the bullets are great.

 

I know you have the springs already, but that's just one of many lessons I've perosnally learned over the years, you start with plan A and start piecing it together then midstream you get an apiffany and now petty much everything you have is not right for the next plan....a few years back I literally had an entire top half from the cam to the intake sitting in my office to hop up my olod 355, then I decided I wanted more and was lucky enough to sell the entire top end only losing $50....it put the buyers chevy II into the high 11 sec range so my parts selection was spot on which made him happy after he got it running and myself happy for staying "int the groove" just modded vortecs (not the good castings-reason I decided to sell after I had them flowed) and a solid flat tappet cam on his 9.5:1 383.

Bullet sells every kind of cam as Crane, Comp, Lunati, Howards, Isky, etc...your best bet is to just call them and see what they have to say since cams are their bread and butter-asking specific questions on this board is good for opinons, but when it comes to spending your money/my money I ultimately talk to the guys that do this stuff so I can try to hit the combo the first time when it comes to cam selection/convertor choice which are 2 critical parts to going fast and making use of the power you have instead of wasting it. Just remember these are the guys that helped get the highly marketed names you read/hear about on the map so they know their stuff, they just dont do the big budget advertising since they really only specialize in 1 aspect-cams.

The base heads flow 262cfm at peak, the comeition heads flow 282cfm at peak....20 cfm equates roughly to .15-.2 on the track everythig else given being the same. BUT...below peak both street and comp heads flow numbers are VERY close and those are the numbers you need to pay close attention too so you will not be in too bad of shape.

 

oops double post

 

lol see I call them up and its like hmm what do I say.

I'll be like , I'm going to run the Afr 195 street heads and am alittle concerned on which cam to go with . I wouldnt know what to say. I know more lift will usually bring more power.. But I don't think I know enough to be able to talk with an expert.

 

So if I go hyd roller cam, I'm going to need a high rev kit. Why do people like hyd roller if theres such a big worry about valve float

 

im concerned with the hyd. rollers and high rpm.. dont mix well. check into that for sure.

 

hmm, If my block was hydrollic roller block from the factory, Do I keep it a hyd roller block? Maybe a block will last longer hyd roller rather then solid roller?

 

the block longevity prolly wont have much at all to do with whether its hdyro or flat.

 

people go with hyd rollers because hyd lifters are self-adjusting and don't require periodic lash checking. They also prefer hyd rollers to solid rollers because hyd rollers by design have oil flowing through them. Therefore, needle bearings of the rollers get lubed very well in the process. Where as solid rollers are mostly solid. They have oiling of the needle bearings, but they don't work as well.

If you are building for torque and would never go above 5.5-6k, they say go with hyd because you'll be able to do 100k miles and not worry about lifters at all.


I've asked this before and some people said that their solid rollers would only last somewhere between 8-20k before at least one roller would self-destruct and they require periodic checking.

Then again, apparently they started making bearing-less solid rollers. Since I was going to go with solids (race / weekend cruiser) anyway, I might explore this option further at some point.

Check out this thread

 

well if I was to go with hyd roller lifters and then went with a high rev kit. Wouldnt I have the best of all worlds? Extended life time miles with little problems, and a good protection if I felt the need to hit 65-7000