Recently I have been having some charging problems and would like your suggestions. As soon as I hit the brakes while cruising my voltage begins to drop and by the time I come to a stop and am idling my volts drop down to about 10.9v. I have after market digital guage cluster and know it isn't entirely accurate, but there is definitely a volatage drop as my lights dim and blinkers slow. One time last week I actually stalled and had to get a jump to get started again (fun times during rush hour). When the problem first started I replaced the battery(pretty old) and had the alternator tested and it appeared on it's way out so I replaced it. Had it tested at autozone so just got 110 amp replacement there. At this time I also came to find out that the previous owner had installed underdrive pulleys which I thought was a nice find at first but now am starting to regret. They resemble the march 3-piece aluminum set. I have tried running it with the stock (smaller) alternator pulley and didn't help and I am running a shorter serpentine belt. BTW the car is an 88 IROC 305 TPI. I have now been thru 2 autozone replacement alternators and still no go. I was wondering what my next best move is. Do I upgrade to a better aftermarket alternator, return to stock crank and waterpump pullies (don't know original sizes), or invest in one of the March underdrive alternator pullies I read about when I did a search? Strange thing is I never had any kind of problems with the original alternator even with the pullies until it went south. The car is my daily driver and reliability is first even though I do like the idea of having $150 pullies I didn't really shell out for. Any suggestions?

 

Those autozone alternators are worth much. The original alternator lasted for over 8 years in my car. The replacement didn't even make it 1 year. But since they have a lifetime warranty on them I didn't complain much.

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92 Camaro RS, LO3, 5-spd, T-tops

Performance:
K&N Open Air Filter, Edelbrock performer TBI intake, Fastchip Prom, Timing +4 degrees, Centerforce clutch, Xact 8mm wires, SLP 1 3/4" Headers (coated), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Richmond 3:42 gears, Torsen HD Posi
Sights & Sounds:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers. Z28 grille w/aftermarket lights, MacEwen whiteface gauges
NEXT UP: TBI & Suspension mods

 

Yeah I have heard that b4 and that's why I was wondering if upgrading to a high output alternator would solve my problem. Anybody else?

 

TTT

 

You could try getting one from NAPA, theirs are usually quality parts and also carry a lifetime warranty on them.

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89 RS V8,Borg-Warner 9-Bolt rear,Open element,Flowmaster.

 

Please check all your connections. Specifically grounds. In changing the alternator, you probably hit all the + side connections, but what about the ground side? I had a truck here at work that would not charge for anything. The best I could get out of it with a 140 amp alt was 12.5 volts. I finally figured out that the ground from the block to the batt was corroded and not flowing the current properly. I changed it and the charge immediately jumped to a solid 14 volts at idle. Much better.

To test this, put a volt meter on the alternator while the car is running. note the volts. Then, w/o changing engine speed, check the voltage at the battery. If the voltage is lower at the battery, then you have poor continuity somewhere. If the voltage is consistent then you need to change your pulleys or raise your idle speed.

 

I'll test the voltages tomorrow as I don't currently have the car tonight. I had to get a jump again this morning to get to work. I also cleaned both terminals on the battery as a precaution. One quick question about testing at the alternator...Do I just test where the single + wire bolts up at the alternator or do I have to tie in where the factory connector hooks in to the alternator? If this is this case which of the wires at the connector do I test and is there any preferred method for testing? Thanks again for the reply.

 

Well I checked the voltages at both the battery and the alternator. The battery reads a little over 13v and the alternator is reading a little under 10 volts. I was getting 10v at both where the battery lead bolts into the alternator and coming out of the alternator where the factory harness connects to the alternator. Any suggestions on what could be the problem?

 

BTT

 

I would check to make sure your belt is totally tight, if a little loose slipping occurs. Just take a long screwdriver or anything that you can use for leverage and pry(sp?) it tight while you tighten the bolt.

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"Putting any amount of money into a RICE BURNER is like wiping your a$$ with a turd. "
'86 IROC
T-TOPS, TINTED WINDOWS, BRAKE LIGHT BLACKOUTS
GM GOODWRENCH 350
EDELBROCK TES HEADERS
3" Hooker CatBack w/Aero Chamber muffler
EDELBROCK 600CFM CARB.
KN AIRFILTER
ACCEL HEI DISTRIBUTOR
160* Stat, just switched to 180* b/c of winter coming and going to college in the mts.
3:73 Posi
Rebuilt 700R4
B&M Megashifter, 5" Autometer Tach w/shift lite