camaronewbie

I just wanted all to know that, despite all heard about replacing the fuel pump, it really wasn't that bad. It took me 8 hours, start to finish, working all alone, to do mine, in the driveway. I promise there are worse repairs to have to do.

Also I wanted to let everyone know - if your pump just dies one day, you CAN get the car home without a tow bill. Get any junkyard fuel injection pump (I used a 1980's Dodge Conquest in-tank pump), connect it in the fuel lines under the hood, duct tape it to the fender, and apply electricity from a "hot-in-run" source - it'll suck fuel through your dead pump and get you home!

Worst part for me - the exhaust. I had to hacksaw my I-pipe where it went into the muffler - it rusted really bad there and wouldn't seperate. I got a $4 connector, some new clamps, and made it work where I cut it. But my tailpipes are misaligned - a trip to the muffler shop for assistance may be needed for myself.

Please make sure you get a good quality replacement pump - although not terrible, there is too much work to be a cheapskate with this. I went to CarQuest, got a pump and screen for about $60 - this is one time I refuse to use Advance or AutoZone, although they were only $28. AND MAKE SURE YOU GET A NEW SCREEN!!! I guarantee yours will be shot, or you'll ruin it trying to reuse it.

Other Considerations while your here and have more than 8 hours:

New Coil Springs - they are cheap enough, and the old ones come out to get to the tank.

Shocks - only a few bolts away, but adds some time to wrestle with carpet and rear seats.

Differential Lube - when's the last time you changed it?

Sway Bar Bushings - you take 'em out, why not replace with those new poly ones you've been drooling over!

Here's a play by play for those interested - hope it helps. Anyone with differing experience please chime in:

1) DRAIN-OH - Drain the tank - siphon out what you can - makes tank weigh much less for the wrestling to follow - leave gas cap off. Remove the gas door and the plastic housing around gas filler tube.

3) I KNOW JACK! - Jack the rear end of car - Jack stands - make sure they are on the frame, and NOT under the lower control arms or any suspension component - you must move the rear end assembly up/down during process. I placed stands under framerails just in front of LCA's

4) DUH!!! Remove the Obvious from under car - muffler assembly from I-pipe, disconnect I-pipe from cat (I had to remove I-pipe completely to manipulate rear end), panhard bar and stabilizer bar, metal heat shields, etc.

5) NO BLEEDING - Disconnect the fuel lines. The lines lead foward to a bracket that also holds the rear driver side brake cable - take the bolt out of this bracket to allow move movement of the brake line - but leave brake lines untouched - we don't want to bleed!

6) Disconnect the wire to the pump/fuel guage sending unit

7) Remove the pass side wheel (trust me).

8) SHOCKING!!! - Place floor jack under rear end housing, and slightly jack rear just to relieve the weight, so that you can remove the rear shock bolts (lower) - You can remove the nuts from the rearward side, and leave the bolt in the shock. The shocks (and sway bar) are the only things that hold rear end up!

9) SWAY UP THERE? - disconnect/remove the sway bar end links - they will limit how low the rear can be lowered, and we need every inch!

10) THE LET DOWN - Carefully, Slowly let rear end down as far as it will go. WATCH YOUR HEAD - the Coil Springs will fall out - make sure you keep the rubber mounts both upper and lower for the springs (they tend to fall quietly and roll unseen waaayyyy across the floor). ALSO - watch the brake lines to ensure they aren't being stretched too far. ALSO - make sure the shocks aren't artificially holding up the rear end - make sure they don't get caught on the axle as it comes down - this could really hurt later when the shock "pops" free and the rear falls on you!

11) AYE AYE CAPTAIN! Remove the I-pipe, twisting and cursing it over the rear end and towards the front of car - it will be in the way when wrestling the tank.

12) STRAPPING - Remove the bolts holding tank straps (these are forward of the tank). Lay on your back, remove the bolts with a socket & extension, while holding tank on knees.

13) The tank should be free, but should kinda hold itself in place (you'd be too lucky for it to fall out). The straps are removable, from the bottom rearward end, by sliding them to a horizontal position (the strap ends are a "T" shape, that slide in a groove on the frame - move to horizontal and the "t" will come out of the slot. It won't hurt to bend the straps either - they are flexible, and easy to bend back.

14) THE WRESTLE - I found it easiest to lay with my feet towards the driver-side rear wheel and my head on the pass side for "The Wrestle". The tank is awkward, but lightweight (assuming you siphoned it). Pull the tank towards the pass side (you'll see why the coil spring and pass wheel was in the way) as you work it downward and rearward.

NOTE: I actually had to manhandle my tank some - the filler tube gets stuck in the fender before the tank is angled enough to pull out. I actually grabbed the tank while it was kinda holding itself in place, and pulled downward slowly, steadily, and very carefully, bending the filler tube very slightly as I worked the tank towards the pass side of car, and out towards rear of car. After reinstall, repositioning the tube is easy (see below).

After a few choice words, and some grunting, you should be sitting in front of a very dirty, dusty gas tank, and have at least one eye full of crud. Wash face, and take 5.

15) THE LEAKDOWN - Before proceeding, check your filler tube area around the tank for indication of leakage - it's been posted here that these tanks sometimes would leak around the filler tube - and now would be the time to have yours fixed (most radiator shops can solder gas tank leaks cheaply - and let them do it - they know how to put fire to this tank-o-fumes without blowing up!).

16) WASH THE TANK! Stuff a rag partially into the filler tube, take that sucka to the yard, and hose it off so that dirt doesnt get inside. Dry the tank.

17) SHE NEEDS LUBE! - Take some motor oil, and pour it around the top where the pump is held - spread it around good all over the locking cam that holds the pump in the tank. You will be using a screwdriver, and metal against metal makes sparks - not good with a freshly shaken tank full of fumes.

18) THE LOCKDOWN - The pump is held with a locking cam. You will see 3 tabs protruding on the innermost ring - take a screwdriver and rubber mallot, and gently tap on these tabs around counterclockwise. You should see the cam moving as you tap. It must be turned about 2/3 around before it unlocks. Watch the tabs don't get caught in the fuel lines and other protrusions on the cam.

19) REMOVAL - when unlocked - gently remove the top, the pump is in there at a weird angle, and youll have to gently twist and turn to get the pump assembly out. NOTICE the orientation for the reinstall. BE CAREFUL with the float for the guage - you dont want to bend the wire that holds the float or your guage will be off later. There'll be much dirt in the cam locks that may need to be wiped clean - less dirt in your tank, the better. This would also be the time to clean the tank - if you have alot of dirt in there, you could empty it, spray a can or 2 of brake cleaner in there, swish, and empty out through filler tube.

20) PUMP SHOT - This pump is a replacement for many applications. It should have instructions, and gaskets, tubes, screws, washers, nuts, etc. You'll see what you need for your car. Make sure you replace the pickup screen as well - after all this, it's no time to be a cheapskate! And use the new oring for the cam lock - the old one is cracked and brittle.

21) BACK IN THE SADDLE - Carefully replace the pump/float assembly into the tank, and tap the locking cam back clockwise until the tabs hit their stoppers. Wipe any excess oil off so it doesn't drip into face. Make sure you have the bolts for the straps within reach, place tank under car, put straps in their slots, and wrestle the tank back into place. Hold tank with knees while getting the strap bolts in front started. Just get them started, and reconnect the fuel lines to the tank, as well as the wires for the guage/pump.

22) CHECKPOINT CHARLIE - Before proceeding - fill the tank with 5 gallons of gas and check it all. Connect battery, turn key to on, and check guage - you should get a reading above Empty, although it won't be accurate since the car is jacked up it'll read lower than it should. You should also hear the pump prime. If it doesn't work, now was the time to know, right?

23) OH HAPPY DAY!!!! - Just reassemble everything, all the while with a big smile! Start with I-Pipe - get it back over the axle and headed towards muffler, but don't reconnect at cat just yet.

Again, please be carefull with the rear end when jacking to get shocks into place - it's heavy - it will hurt you!

COIL SPRINGS - make sure to get the rubber spacers back in place correctly - there will be dents where the end of the coil presses into the rubber. Jack slowly while holding each in place.

Watch I-Pipe making sure it doesn't bind. Get shocks reattached to hold rear end up. Reassemble the rest (sway bar end links, panhard bar, stabilizer, heat shields, muffler, etc. Don't forget that bolt for the brake line/fuel line holder.

This would be a perfect time to install new fuel filter - but maybe wait a day or 2 - let the old filter trap the major particles shaken loose during this process - that way they won't be in the new filter.

BEFORE reinserting plastic housing for gas filler tube, check for alignment. Once the straps are secure and tightened, you can bend the tube in the fender by placing a very large screwdriver in the tube, and bend where needed. I used the screwdriver end of a lug wrench, bending slowly and carefully to realign to center of fenderhole without poking a hole in filler tube.

24) AFTERGLOW! Start, check fuel pressure (if you have guage), drive easily at first, making sure all was reattached properly. Make circles in a parkinglot - I found some lug nuts not completely tight (we are all human). Listen for that exhaust system vibe that makes you crazy, and readjust those crazy tailpipes like I have 3 times. Enjoy - worry free! The factory pump lasted 13+ years, this one should be good for awhile.

firebird45331

Hmmmm makes me glad my fuel pump is on the side of the block

Virtualdemo

I would like to add....

Have someone to check up on you every so often. Car may have fallen on you and you are stuck in the hole where the gas tank was at...lol

Seriously though, I have changed around 5 fuel pumps by myself but I asked someone to check on me "just in case"

Lates,

Demo

strider681

thanks very much for this post!! for awhile I was debating on taking my car in to a shop ($450) or cutting an access panel or doing it myself. it is involved and not just any oil changer or parts replacer can do it, but for anyone out there that has the ability to work on cars it's not really that hard!! this guide has everything you need step by step to drop the tank and replace the pump the right way!! I just did it today for my first time and it was alot easier than I had expected. while not the easiest thing in the world, it was definately easier than cutting a hole in my floor and hacking the lines and all that jazz. did it in my driveway with a 2 ton floor jack and jackstands. now if it was raining or snowing I prob would pay the money for the shop monkeys to do it, but if weather permits and you have basic tools I sure hope anyone thinking about cutting their floor or replacing their pump themselves try it the right way first!! only time I needed help was getting the tank out.

senatorcbp

I say its pretty bad to do but it is capable of being done. BTW great step by step. Anyone who needs to do this for the first time should print this and follow it. I changed mine after a few months of trying to figure out if it was the pump or not. I could hear it prime for two seconds with the key on but I had no fuel pressure. I said the hell with it and bought the pump and strainer dropped the tank and found out the problem was the tiny rubber piece that connects the pump to fuel line turned into oil and fell apart. That explains that my pump was indeed working but it was just shooting fuel out the top. But oh well put on the new pump and hose and bam started right up.

SaintedCorrupt

I'll second that!!

It was so much easier when I had to change the pump in my truck. 8 bolts, jack up the front of the bed, and there's the top of the tank.

Red Devil

Wow. I'm in awe. You really didn't hack the back of your car up to change the pump?


Excellent.

82knightrider

iTrader: (1)

this is a great thread man.Im gonna change out the fuel pump in my 83 CFI now.Thanks man for the great info

xlwhellraiser

iTrader: (1)

Why didnt you just cut an access hole??? ( sorry had to do it)


Here in Denver is freezing up the *** so I really don't think I would survive 8hrs in my driveway. Especially when my hands get cold after 15mins. So I am gonna cut up my car and be done in half hour. There you go!
Or a very good friend of mine is willing to change the pump for me for 150 bucks. I thought maybe he can drop the tank for me and I can cut up the lines and do the access door right.
But most likely i am going to just cut them up!

Call it hack job, call it a mod I don;t care!


Oh, and if I blow up please tell people that I was fighting terrorists and that I got blown up by a BFG ( )

camaronewbie

Well - I seriously thought about an access panel - then I thought about it, and knew that I'd end up with 1) no usable gas tank, 2) no usable trunk area, and 3) a BIG fire - since I didn't have marshmallows or hot dogs available, I decided a fire was a waste of time.

gatoRS92

Very nice write-up!

But where is step 2?

Randy82WS7

i always use the engine crane to pick up the back of these cars to drop the tank i have pics of an 88 v-6 bird that i had for a little bit hanging off an engine crane when i was replacing the pump in it

they arent hard to drop with the stock exhaust but it is a bit of a wrestle usualyl to get the tank back up in there due to the filler neck being solid one piece and pretty long

otherwise not bad, can do it in a couple hours if you have everything ready and have dropped tanks before,

AUSSIROC

iTrader: (1)

Awesome thread! Mine is just about to quit so this is great.
Cheers!

jbailey8748

poor rear bumper
whats that chain attached to, not much down there cept axle

mike_c

iTrader: (13)

Not to dig up an old thread, but I just used these instructions to change my fuel pump this weekend and they were incredibly helpful! Took me about 9 hours total. Wasnt that bad, just very time consuming. I'd reccomond this write up to anyone who wants to change their pump the right way. This should really be in the tech articles section.

rpwils

Do you need to remove the muffler from the I pipe? Mine is wielded on from the shop.

Shinobi'sZ

What fuel pump did you buy? Did you stick with the stock injectors. I know on my 90 Firebird one injector when bad and the motor wouldn't start? However I could hear the fuel pump prime everytime and the relay click. I replaced the #1 fuel injector after it was found to be bad and the car runs fine. I understand the Bosch or FMS injectors do not have this problem.

rpwils

I have not bought anything yet. The car will start but lops and than dies unless I pump the gas. The fuel pressure is really low so i assumed it was the pump. Could a bad pressure regulator cause that?

thunder69n

Howdy, thanks for your post. Im an amature to working on my 87 firebird v6 automatic 2.8

So I am in the process of changing my fuel pump.

Need to lower my rear end, but lost on that part??

working on removing very dificult bolts that attach a brace thats in the way of fuel pump and maybe my stabalize? the botth attach to a bushing at one end. theres three 5/8 mm bolts on driverside. On passenge side they meet at the bushing with bolt going through bushinginto a nut 18mm on htis end, broke another ratched and neet to get a 18mm wreng to hold bolt while turn nut, got nut off the stabalize bolt so far.

Car is on jackstands in rear and ramps in front wich (prolly not the brightest??)

also think just figured need to get my car put back together filled with gas and exaughts put on so doesnt break when car rolls back off the ramps, need the front of the car lower then the back to get my exaughst that won't come out withought axle removed? becouse its shaped like a squiggle over my rear axle. ???? was disapointed after chizeling off a weld that held my drivers side hanger for my exaughst
Dosnt look like the fuel pump straps, will remove, they unbolt at teh top, and swing down at the bottom,is that were the notch should be when they swing down? to actually remove the straps. really need to be able to get my exhaust out to, shouldn't be an issue

thunder69n

theres a bolt I cant get to come out, were the panhard bar and stabilizer bar meet up, pan hard bar is removed, other end of stabalizer bar removed, . nut from passenger side taken off the bold, but bolt wont slide out , been hammering but no avail. really dont want to try and drill this out, have a titanuim bit but may nee advice on drilling it out gonna be outa a car couple more days couse this last stupid bolt

Dante93GTZ

iTrader: (5)

Did you wind up having to remove the torque arm? Just curious if I'll have to on mine.

camaronewbie

no need to remove torque arm

cIaRmOaCrZo

this is pretty good write up ill admitt. but iv already done 2 of these in my 3rdgens and you dont have to drop the rear end... just remove the heat sheilds, tank straps, fuel lines, gas door, panhard bar, and take a pry-bar and slide into filler neck and slightly bend down on it to where it moves barelly 1/2 inch. then pull the tank. it only takes 3-5 hours TOPS, depending on your facility and tools. so leave the rear end alone and save 4 hours lol. but im against the whole hacking up the trunk too. these cars have just started gettin more difficult to find so why do permenent damage on a car thats becoming "slowly" extinct?

Ozz1967

iTrader: (4)

I installed an intake pump on my 84 because my new block didn't have a provision for a mechanical pump. Took me the better part of two days because I had never done it before but it was a complete PITA. Worst part was getting the tank in/out. I wound up bending my filler neck...no matter how I twisted and turned, the thing wouldn't come out and once it did, I couldn't get it back in. Real pain in the rear.

yendor

Is there a reason this isn't a sticky? Looks like people have been using this write up for years (as I did). very good write up.

onewheelpeel

All this article needs is pictures and this would be an excellent sticky!! I will be tackling this project in the near future! After reading this I feel very confident that I can do it.

dabird07

iTrader: (10)

old thread answered alot of question but heres one might be stuppid but wat height was used for the jack stands?

i know ure dropping alot and should i probly put some up front too

i was thinking 21 inches maybe

there on sale from summit like twenty bucks for a pair check em out!

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SHC-950159/

thanks

or two feet
http://www.harborfreight.com/6-ton-j...set-38847.html

bluers91

It's not too bad, just takes some time. We did it over a couple days. This should give you an idea of height. It's better this way too because you won't have to cut the gas lines and you won't hack up your car.

dabird07

iTrader: (10)

looks around twoo feet thanks man

olveracm

can you tell me/us more about getting a fuel pump from another car to get the car home? or could you msg me. .