ok i am going to be running a l69 with cccarb and ccdistributer
the stock computer will have to be hooked up for now
ive took out everthing that was obvious that i wouldnt need

but i have some questions about setting up the vac system and what all has to be there for the computer not to freak out
does anyone who knows what i will have to leave hooked up and can draw me a little diagram about how to route the hoses? sorry im filled with questions this is the first time ive ever just gutted a camaro and im trying to take off weight and make it look cleaner. (and no im not worried about emissions, if the motor or computer dont need it its gettin tossed)

also the "evap canister" ? in the drivers side behind headlight will i need to keep that?

the motor was yanked out of this car in an unfriendly mannor by me when i was younger and i dont remember how alot of things had actualy connected (hense the need to a kinda rough diagram)

either way thanks if you can offer any help

 

what exactily are you doing? swapping a cc carbed engine int oa body that didn't originally come with one? the engine needs every piece, control, and senser gm put on it. blindly removing parts you don't know the name of isn't the way to improve your car or it's preformance.

 

im swapping in a half dead l69 for an all dead l64
lol

and im stripping it down to bear minimum

i drew this up realy quick
but dont know enough about what it needs and doesnt need to finish the picture

 

sorry if i sound dumb but i didnt grow up or around working on cars and im figuring this all out on my own basicly while doing the swap

ive basicly gutted all extra weight out of car and everything to lighten it up and want the engine compartment to be clean and the car to run

i dont have all the stock stuff to begin with so i start scrapping things i knew i wouldnt need and there are still alot of things that need replaced
ive had the motor on the stand and going through and putting all new gaskets on it and the like with a chrom dress up kit
pulled and painted the tranny driveshaft and rear end

and the car has been apart for so many years that i dont rember realy anything about the hose routing and need to make my own

please anyone if you can add to the drawing please do

or give any tips or info for me

thanx

 

hey five7 when you see this could you please move it to the engine swap section i think i would get a little better help in there

thanx man

 

That's not the wisest policy. Pay more attention to what it takes to make the car run right, and less attention to spank-off like this, and your car .... might just run right.

There is very little that you can just hack off of your car and expect it to still do what it's supposed to. That is twice as true when you don't know what the things you're hacking off are supposed to do in the first place.

This crap you always see people post about "clean up the engine compartment" is a one-way ticket to failing inspection, and being unable to license the car, which turns it into a lawn ornament your neighbors can all be proud of, and the car eventually ending up in the junkyard when they've enjoyed it enough and call the local health dept and get it towed off. That 3 ounces you save on those parts, might be the difference someday between driving your car and not being able to drive your car or even losing your car permanently without any payment. Is "engine compartment to be clean" (whatever that might mean to whomever) worth that much to you?

A much better approach would be to get yourself a service manual, and put the car back like it came. The sensors and such are easy: they all have these little connectors that go to them, and they're all different, so if you just lay the wire harnesses back where they belong, the right connectors will usually be obvious, even if you don't know what the parts are that they hook to. Use the little thin plastic vacuum line instead of big rubber stuff, if its "looks" mean that much to you; and then bundle everything up in spiral wrap. And of course, DON'T do the typical "hack" thing, and hacksaw (what a great word) the fuel line off and run rubber fuel line between the pump and the carb; that's another good way to destroy a car, by setting it on fire when the rubber line bursts.

There's a cute little diagram on your radiator clamp, that shows where every vacuum line goes (the ones that are part of the engine anyway... doesn't show the ones that belong to the HVAC or cruise control).

There are many correct and sensible approaches to hot-rodding. Hacking a bunch of stuff off the car that you don't happen to like for whatever reason, and then wondering if you've hacked too much off yet, isn't among them.

 

well basicly what ive removed so far
is all ac componants
and heater core and everything and patched up firewall with sheet metal
i also removed the "air"? system from the cat to the motor
this car was hacked before i started messing with it
and the car i got the motor for it out of was a nightmare hack job
im just trying to make 2 hack jobs run lol
i understand that there is alot to learn
and it looks like im just going to have to figure it out on my own

i guess im not making too bad of progress being as i didnt even know anything about a year ago
its just frustrating little things like this that hang me up
like not understanding the vaccum system its purpose and the different parts involved in it

i almost have the electronics figured out though

thanks for the help so far
i understand what your telling me
its just im not trying to turn this car into the 20 second stock f-body that can get turned out by grandma's grocery getter lol
i know this motor wont make it fast
i just want this motor to make it run long enough to get something better together

 

Nah, it's fine here.

There are some vacuum diagrams on the FAQ forum. That may be of some help.

There aren't any differences between the LG4 and L69 vacuum systems & sensors except for the dual snorkel of the L69.

I'd leave the charcoal canister. It doesn't hurt anything, and provides a filtered vent for the gas tank. If the control valve and associated hoses are FUBAR, you may be able to justify removing & capping, and using a vented gas cap.

 

ok thanx for the info five7
looks as if they were unharmed
so i will make sure i hook it back up

right now im fighting a battle to get a chrome timing chain cover on it, well not realy but cleaning up the gasket surfaces and whatnot, Should i use the black form a gasket with the gasket in the kit? and about how hard should i tork down the bolts the the cover? lol im sorry im so clueless but im learning
well i took the old one off after buying a harmonic balancer puller and the chain looks realy loose it has a hang to it on the bottom is this normal? how much play should a timing chain have? like an inch or so?

either way thanks for the info ive found some other vac diagrams around here too
im wanting to simplify the setup for it
it was vacuum hose hell with almost everything removed broken or capped
so im going to have to buy all new hoses

btw how do you tell tdc? while ive got this cover off i could drop the dizzy back in and eyeball it up so i can at least start it when i figure this stuff out

*ps metal shavings on front of crank and in mechanical fuel pump hole doesnt look like this motor will last too long just long enough for me to build something better would be nice

this is in no means going to be a daily driver
my plan is to basicly turn this thing into a modified eventualy

 

I'm not sure about all L69's, but my LG4 timing tab was at 12 o'clock, meaning whatever timing cover you put back on the engine needs to be there, too, if your original was there.

Unless you go out and buy a different harmonic damper that is marked for a timing tab at the 2 o'clock (approx) position.

To find #1 TDC: Turn the engine over and either hold a finger over the #1 spark plug hole, or watch the #1 cylinder rocker arms. As the timing mark on the damper approaches the timing tab, you will feel pressure from the spark plug hole, or, neither rocker arm will have been moving for the last half of the crankshaft rotation. If you don't feel any pressure as the mark comes up, or either rocker arm is moving a half turn before the mark comes up, you're on #6 firing position.