Ive seen plenty of ways on how to adjust valves with the shop manual, and Im guessin with a stock cam. Can I still do it that way with a bigger cam? My cam specs are in my sig.

 

Valve adjustment doesn't care what cam is installed. All valve adjustments are done with the lifter on the base circle of the cam when the valves are closed not on the lobe when the valves are open.

 

Well, I know that part. I guess what I meant was can I go by the shop manual method? Like have #1 at TDC and adjust whichever valves it says, then rotate the crank 180 degrees and adjust the rest of the valves. I didnt know if with an aftermarket cam, with different overlaps and valve events, if the same rules/methods applied.

 

No, go by the EOIC method. Do a search of "EOIC" and you'll get a ton of replies. It's an acronym for a procedure to make sure the lifter is on the base circle. I'm just too lazy to type it out now.

 

EOIC = this:

Adjust one valve at a time; DO NOT try to set it at #1 firing and adjust half, and then rotate once and adjust the other half.

One cyl at a time, rotate the engine by hand through the firing order, stopping as each cyl's exhaust is just beginning to open (EO=Exhaust Opening). At that time, adjust that cyl's intake valve. Then one at a time, rotate the engine by hand similarly through each cyl's Intake Closing (IC), and at that time, adjust that cyl's exhaust valve. Set each valve in its turn to zero lash, then add your desired preload. For a performance (high-RPM), motor, I'd recommend no more than 1/4 turn past zero lash.

This method will work with ANY hydraulic cam, no matter how big; and will even get fairly close with most solids (except of course that you set a solid to a specific lash, not 1/4 turn of preload).

 

is it safe to turn the motor over with the balancer bolt? I got a manual so I cant get to the flywheel, and Im always afraid of the balancer bolt breaking of. Thats why I usually bump the motor over with the starter, but even that can get frustrating, and not to mention hard on the starter.

EDIT: I know for hydraulic cams there should be zero lash, but once set, how easy is it to spin the pushrod? Figured that would be another way to double check everything.

 

I would avoid using the balancer bolt if at all possible.

I've used a strap wrench around the crank pulley before, though.

 

So, THAT'S what I've been doing wrong. I always wondered why the solid rollers never made power for me, and the valves seem to burn much faster.

 

what exactly is the advantage of using your way sofakingdom ?
I'm not trying to be a smartass but I used the factory method and haven't had any problems. Should I readjust them using the eoic way? The gta is garaged for the winter anyway so I can do some other mods to it so I've got the time.