Hello all,
I just installed my new 383 performance motor..yea!! The compression is 9.9:1 and need a good performance starter that can handle the compression. The flywheel is a stock flywheel which came off my old 305. I have no idea how many teeth it has.
Any information on a good high performance mini starter would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in Advance
Brad

 

Powermaster starters. The XS torque modles are some of the strongest. Jegs and Summit sell them

www.powermastermotorsports.com

 

Here a question,

Why is that the cheaper starter that Powermaster sells will work on both the 168 and 153 tooth, but the high end starters (XS) have two different part numbers, one for 153 tooth and 168 tooth, I dont understand this. Any info will be greatful, Guess its time for to get under and count teeth on the flywheel.

 

It depends on how the mount is designed. The universal ones have 2 different mounting holes to move the starter in or out away from the flywheel. If your block only has diagonal mount holes then you're stuck with a specific starter.

The more expensive ones designed for a specific size ring gear only have one set of mount holes which makes the mounting flange stronger.

Just measure the diameter of your flexplate/flywheel. 168 tooth is 14" wide. 153 tooth is 12-3/4" wide

I wish the clockable starter was available when I bought mine.

 

I've been running a CVR Protorque for like 2.5 years now... Works flawlessly and I think it only cost about $150? It was so long ago I forgot the price but I know it was waay cheaper than most of the other brands

 

I run CVR as well. Starts my 400 up fine.

 

starter aside, unless your 383 is internally balanced (most usually aren't), you need an externally-balanced flex-plate as well.

 

I had my 383 internally balanced!!

 

how much did that cost? i've always heard the heavy metal required to internally balance one would cost an arm and a leg.

 

I've been running the Jegs unit for 2 years now with no hiccups. And I promise these race car starters get cycled a heck of alot more than a standard daily driver starter over the course of just one year

 

I've been running a CVR for 3-4 years. No problems cranking my 383 in the Texas heat!! I noticed they're a little more expensive now.

 

I dont understand what you mean when you say the race starters get cycled more than standard driver. I drive my car mainly on weekends and race days. Will you educate me..

Brad

 

Bluegoose, Race cars tend to get started and shut off a lot waiting in the staging lanes to keep their engines from heating up....I think thats what he meant about a lot of cycling. I'm too lazy to push my car through the staging lanes so thats what I do too. I'm also using a CVR with no trouble.

 

That totally makes sense!!

 

I also had a 383 crank internally balanced.

Paid $100 to have to turn to 350 mains then I had around $80 to $100 bucks of mallory metal add'd to it (was still cheaper than buying the 383 4340 eagle). I had them internally balance it to my forged trw pistons and my forged LW I beam rods. Also had heads checked out for valve springs to make sure they were alright for a solid roller. Block was tanked, fluxed, bored, aligned, clearanced, and the other normal things. Also had all gaskets surfaces checked to make sure they were true. Ran me around $600 just for labor at the shop.

I probably end'd up right around 1500 to 1600 bucks (total purchase and labor for just the rotating assembly minus rings).