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It doesnt make any sense. Whats your guess?

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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 02:59 PM
  #1  
violentgod1's Avatar
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: 305 ci v8 LO3
Transmission: WC T5
It doesnt make any sense. Whats your guess?

This problem has been burning me up for the last month or so. It started to get cold out and i dont drive the car that much just because i like to keep miles and wear and tear down. So started it up and took off and it was fine for a little bit and then it started puttering. Not like when a wire is bad but worse. Almost like the car had about an ounce of gas in it and it wanted to stall. Coming out of first i needed to give it a lot of gas just to get going and after that i couldnt give it too much gas because it would want to stall. I went to the garage today because i like to keep out of the snow (even though we havent gotten any) and it started up fine. Drove it around for about 5 minutes and it was fine and there it was again but worse. I didnt even know if i was going to make it back to the garage. Its not even so much at WOT but whenever i try to give it a decent amount gas for 2nd and after. But i gotta give it a lot of gas to get out of first. After a little while of driving around like that it started to get a little better again but i just parked it. It was out for about 20 minutes or so. It an LO3 with the WCT5. Its got just over 100000 miles and has always been garage kept. Does anyone have a clue
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 05:48 PM
  #2  
five7kid's Avatar
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From: Littleton, CO USA
Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: L92/LQ4 (both w/4" stroke)
Transmission: 4L80E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
1st step would be to verify fuel pressure. A plugged fuel filter would certainly cause the symptoms you're describing, as would a worn-out fuel pump.
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Old Jan 10, 2006 | 11:40 PM
  #3  
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From: Kent, WA
Car: 88 Camaro, 93 civic hatch
Engine: 2.8L, 1.5L VTec
Transmission: 5 Speed, 5 Speed
^^what I was going to say.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 02:21 AM
  #4  
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From: Midwest
Car: 1991 Camaro RS
Engine: 383 LT1
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Originally posted by five7kid
1st step would be to verify fuel pressure. A plugged fuel filter would certainly cause the symptoms you're describing, as would a worn-out fuel pump.
fuel...fuel is a good thing

just a thought here too...sounds like it is running good until the computer decides it is time to run closed loop - maybe bad a sensor of some sort?
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 06:52 AM
  #5  
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From: Tampa
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
Fuel pumps are sensitive to heat, as are all electric motors. This sounds like a fuel pump problem to me, but do the filter first anyway and check the fuel pressure before breaking into the tank.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 09:09 AM
  #6  
violentgod1's Avatar
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: 305 ci v8 LO3
Transmission: WC T5
is there a good way to do this? I havent really ever done anything with fuel delivery but im good with my hands and can follow directions. How much would it be to change the fuel filter and check the pressure. Thanks a lot for the help.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 03:25 PM
  #7  
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From: Tampa
Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 350 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
Fuel filter is like five bucks and requires two wrenches to complete. A jack would help too unless you can slide under the car with it on the ground. If it is TPI, make sure to relieve the fuel pressure first. If its TBI, let it sit for like 5 minutes before removing the filter. Fuel pressure is pretty easy to check, but you need the proper gauge. Its like 45 bucks.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 03:45 PM
  #8  
violentgod1's Avatar
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: 305 ci v8 LO3
Transmission: WC T5
sounds like ill be working on this friday. Dont have the money for the guage but i think i can do the filter. I hope its not the pump. Does anyone know what im looking at price wise if i do have to do the fuel pump? Thanks again
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 04:01 PM
  #9  
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From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 87 Z-28
Engine: A worn-out 305
Transmission: T-5, until it dies
The fuel pump is more of a p.i.t.a. than it is expensive.....You generally need
to lower your exhaust, and let your diff hang as far as possible(sometimes
have to move your diff out of the way....) to get to your tank. Personally, as
much of pain as it is, I'd buy the best pump available for our cars (read:
WalBro....), it would really suck to go through changing it because of saving
a couple bucks.....
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 08:53 PM
  #10  
violentgod1's Avatar
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From: Rochester, NY
Car: 1989 RS
Engine: 305 ci v8 LO3
Transmission: WC T5
is there anything specific i have to look for when changing the fuel filter. I have the TBI and know that there is not a lot fuel pressure in the system. I just dont want gas all over the place or take something off im not suppose to. As far as the fuel pump from what i read it looked like the easiest way to change that is from the inside, cutting a whole, and either welding it shut afterwards or make an access door. I dont know if i will get into that because it might be a little over my head. Who knows though i like to learn with my hands. I dont think i should have to worry about ruining the lines because there is no rust anywhere on lines on or underneath the car. Any tips would helpful though.
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Old Jan 11, 2006 | 09:08 PM
  #11  
'Shifter's Avatar
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From: Tucson, Arizona
Car: 87 Z-28
Engine: A worn-out 305
Transmission: T-5, until it dies
If you like to learn, and are good with your hands, then you
should fix your car the right way. I wholeheartedly agree with
the fact that our cars should have come with an access door,
but they didn't. Spray PB Blaster or Nutsoff on your fuel filter
fitting anyway-sure beats twisting a line. Use flare nut wrenches,
and wrap a rag around the filter and one around each of your
wrists to catch the inevitable drips....wear nitrile gloves if you
can, drain bamage sucks.
Attached Thumbnails It doesnt make any sense.  Whats your guess?-marc2.jpg  
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