I have a 91 firebird with a 305 TBI. Periodically when I got to start it, it will not even crank. No solonoid clicking. The car has plenty of juice. If I let the car sit and come back in say an hour or so it may or may not start up with no problems. There doesnt seem to be any pattern to this behavior. The starter is about three years old but i thought that when a starter goes out it goes out for good. Not a "I wont start today but I will start tommorow." I was also wondering if there is some kind of electrical problem where you have to push the clutch in for it to start that is not getting recognized hence not starting sometimes. Any help anyone could give me would be greatly appreciated.

 

Ok so start at the top......does your car start its self check when you turn the key on? Rules out the ignition switch.....Are all of your connections tight going to the starter?

 

That is the exact problem I had with with my 91 Bird, I finally chased it down to the VATS (Vehicle Anti-Theft System).
I had to change the key lock cylinder, the new cylinder came with a new key.

This is after I changed starter, tested fuel pump, checked ignition, all the wiring, major pain. The car would not start, click, turn over.. nothing, then later, I could try and it would start right up. Then it got to the point that it would not start at all.

The wires going to the lock cylinder had the insulation worn off because they move with the cylinder when it is turned and were not giving the correct resistance to the VATS module.

The new lock cylinder came with a key and they put the correct pellet in based on the old key, I changed the cylinder myself, pretty easy to do.

Solved all my starting problems.

 

I know this may be reaching but . Have you ever tryed tapping the starter when it is donig this ?

 

A 91 has airbags, correct? How big of a PITA was it to replace your lock cylinder?

 

It is a PITA to change the lock cylinder if you have never done it, but not because of the airbag. it is just a PITA to change cylinders the first time, after that, I can change one in about 10 min.

The airbag was not a problem, I took out the SIR fuse then disconnected the yellow SIR connector at the base of the column. The connector is easy to find, it is bright yellow and labeled. The airbag is held on by #30 torx head screws from the back of the wheel, a regular driver will not fit you need a 1/4" socket driver with 3" extention and #30 torx bit. The screws are located deep within four holes in the back of wheel. After you take out the screws the bag lifts off and wires disconnected.

The wheel comes off like any other wheel, If you have ever taken off a steering wheel than the job is the same except removing the bag which is easy.

The coil assembly is held on by a normal retaining snap ring. if you have ever taken out a turn signal switch, the coil assembly is on top of that so it is no different except for the snap ring and the wires for the coil.


Once you have the bag, wheel, coil and turn signal switch of the way, it is like any normal lock cylinder except for the wires for the cylinder

BTW, You need to use a lock plate compressor to remove the turn signal switch. This is the only hard part of the job and it has nothing to do with the airbag.

 

Thanks for the write up! i've replaced lock cylinders before. I didnt thing it was too bad.

What do new VATS key cylinders run? Do you have to get them at the dealer? I know the keys sure arent cheap

 

Why not just disable the VATS with a resistor instead of pulling your steering wheel apart. There is a sticky on the procedure or do a search for VATS disable. Then you can have all the $2 dollar keys you want.

 

I got my new lock cylinder and key for about $75 at a GM dealer. Extra keys cost $25.


You could put a resistor inline to effectively disable the VATS, but in my opinion that is like putting foil around a fuse; it will get you home, but you should fix it when you get there.

You must remember that third gen Camaros were the most stolen vehicle in the US until the VATS was introduced.