I have the edelbrock performers rpm heads now and was wondering if the afr's 220 would be that much of a gain for the money? any suggestions or comments at all?

 

Depends on the rest of the engine build, but if your engine can take that kinda airflow, then YES!! it would be a HUGE improvement!!

 

All depends on the rest of you combination. The Edelbrock heads flow X amount out of the box thru a compact high velocity port (170cc) They really come alive with some hand porting resulting in a port of about 180-185cc and up to 260+ cfm without getting too silly. The potential is there but you have to do the porting.

the 220cc AFRs flow more but the port is much bigger.
They favour a large ci motor and or high rpm tuning (intake compression cam duration.
Velocity is very important to getting a good torque curve.

If you have a 350 based combination I'd just port the Edelbrocks and make other airflow improvemants to get an overall improved effect.

Again need to know mroe about the whole combination to tell you wether to swap to a big head like the AFR 220

 

yeah i know it could take it and i have been doing reading on here and everyone seels to be running them and they seem to be on fast cars. i did some research and i found out that the afr flow of course waht they say 220 or 227 race either one and the edelbrocks only flow 170. When i saw that i figured that they wuold help out my car and be a big difference. i was going ot do a cam swap at the same time as well. Well thanks for the info and anymore would be great.

about the 2nd post i have 13.5 compression ross pistons, super victor intake holley 850 D.P. th350 trans 9 inch rear w/ 4.30 gears. i want to change the converter also when i do this but right now i have a b&m 2800-3200 stall, i was thinking abuot a 4200 stall or about that. i will figure that out after i get the other stuff first. hope that helps thanks again

 

Edelbrock RPMS do not flow 170. 170 is the volume Size of the port in CC's. They flow about 235cfm @28" thru a 170cc sized port. in "out of the box" form. They flow a lot more when ported, while still keeping a 350cid motor friendly port of under 200cc size.
What work has booen done on your Edelbrock heads?
Any flow tests?

Like I said the big heads flow more air but will want lots of camshaft and lots more RPM. plan on a new cam ( solid roller best and definatly a new torque converter with much more stall 5000+rpm an maybe more rear gears ans the motor is going to want to rev much higher. Big tube headers help too.
You already have the compression and intake manifold for high rpm.
I believe those heads require a offset rocker on the intake side.

 

my heads as far as porting are out of the box. i havetn had any flow testing done or anything like that. i figured i could just call comp cams and they could set me up with a new cam depeding on what i went with. my car is bascially becoming a track car it might see the road a couple times a year if that, jsut for a sat night thing or so but nothing major by far gas way to expensive. right now i have the hooker 2210's on it of course they have the 1 3/4 primaries, if i had to switch that not a big deal i am chaning everything else so what are headers ya know. as far as gears this car isnt tubbed jsut 28x11.5x15 tires so what gear were you thinking of?

 

When you get to this point you should do a actual dyno test of your new combination to see how much power you're actually making and at what rpm. Then you can select a rear gear and torque converter stall to match the engines new power band to the car. You want to gear the car to use all the motor over the 1/4 mile so that it reaches peak hp rpm just before the traps. At this point its cheaper to dyno test the motor and buy one set of gears and one torque converter than guessing at what the car will need with the new motor.

If you heads are untouched they have lots of potential if you don't mind porting them.
Ultimatly the big heads will make more peak power but will need all the supporting parts as well.
RPM costs money. A 350 with 220cc heads will want to rev about 7500/8000 or more rpm to make power.

How fast is your car now. What exactly is the combination?
How much faster do you want to go?
there are many other heads to choose from.
A 220cc port head is a biggy. A 350 is going to need to rev to use the airflow.

Say you improve the motor with new heads or porting and a new cam and get 121MPH in the quarter. and the motor want to peak out at 7500rpm. You would want a 4.88 to 5.13 rear gear.

if you spray this motor, the car will go faster requireing less gear or a larger dia tire.

based on what you have listed you're making about 460 to 480hp now not 600. (115MPH 3300LBS)

 

the best so far i have gotten out of my car is a 11.82 @ 115. i would like to get it into the 10's. right now the motor is a 355 has the edelbrocks on it vavle size is 2.02/1.6, super vic intake holley 850 D.P. roller cam .577/.608 114, 13.5 compression, 58.19cc. i have not done any porting on anything so i dont know how or even wehre to start and not only that i would be affraid to "F" it up. when i get to the end of the track now i am at 7000 rpms, i have been told that it doesnt seem right but hey thats what it is. the builder that built the motor told me though the desk top dyno that it makes 601 H.P. but i dont have the times to prove that and i am sure that is not totaly accurate.

 

So the heads are shaved to 58cc but other wise untouched.
Lots of potential there.
Desk top dyno will lie to you if you lie to it.
thats the trouble lot of confusion as to what to enter to model the engine to get accurate numbers.
usually people enter selection that overstate the head flow etc. ( for stock Performer RPM heads select "stock ports and valves" DDyno assumes all parts are optimized.

460-480hp is very respectable for what you have now.
if you can tweek it to 550hp N/A you'll have done a good job.
If you're crossing the finish line at 7000rpm @115MPH with a 28" tall tire and 4.30:1 gears your torque converter or trans is slipping exessively. All high stall converters slip more than a stock converter but should not excceed 10%. The trans may be tired.

Should be finishing at 6500rpm with 4.30 gar and 28" tires at 115MPH.

You can port your heads yourself and not F*&^ it up as long as you realise you cannot turn a compact head 170cc port into a 220cc big huge port.

Nitrous Oxide injection throws a whole new angle into it. With Nitrous there is no such thing as a head that is too big. If you'll be running a lot of nitrous I say go for the big port heads.

What is the cam duration that you have now.
.050" and seat duration.
i see it's ground on n2O friendly 114LSA. may not need a new cam.

To get 'er into the 10's N/A you'll need about 550/600 honest Brake HP. Should run 9's on N20.

I'd be looking into a new trans with a trans brake, 5000rpm stall race converter built for NOS punishment.
can you fit a 29" or 30" tall tire on your car?
haveing two sets of tires allows two effective gear ratios to allow the car to perform best on the motor and on the NOS with 1 rear gear ratio.

 

the trans i just got redone and i figured the cinverter was slipping. before the trans build the car would stall higher than it does now, so i figured that the trans was slipping but nows its in the converter. any converter suggestions? should i just call a company? so if this was your motor what would you do? is there a book or something that can show me how to port heads myself something like that out there? i really do appreciate your help on this. could i get this to 500 or 550 with what i have now? i am sure i could fit a bigger tire on it if i did some massaging on inner fenders or where ever.

 

spend a little on those edlebrock heads and get very simialr results with a fractiuon of the cost of the afrs. for drag racing you need more converter and more gear to get your times down. as someone else stated its all about prot velocity oppsed to flow.

what cam are you running?

 

ok on the desk top dyno 2000 i selected the stock ports and valves and boy was i dissappointed it came up at 483 hp and 487 tq. talk about a shock.
i will write down everything that the dyno2000 sheet has about my cam
camshaft-schneider
lifter-roller
cam specs @ 0.050 lift
int lift@ valve .577
exh lift @ valve .608
lobe center 114.0
valve overlap 24.0
int duration 242.
exht duration 262.0
timing @ adv(+)/ret(-) 2.0
nbow i called comp cams a while ago and the told me to run a 257 in
264 exht @ 50
.644 in
.630 exht i didnt get the lobe seperation, that sound right or atleast better then what i have now ?
so i guess i really dont know how much power my motor is making but from the passes i have run so far i wouldnt say 600. now when i did my 11.8 pass the trans was old and the slicks where spinning on the rims. scince then i have screwed the tires and had a trans built,but still same b&m converter. so now what just port my heads i have now or what. i will be getting a new converter but i shouldnt get one till i decide what i am doing right? after i decide then go with the converter so this all works together. feel like i am in the dark.

 

Your current cam is 242/262? That's a lot of spread.

 

so that means no good/good? i havent really understood the hole cam numbers and all yet. i am still learing. i mean i know what the total lift means and all but when u say that a lot of spread well i have no idea what that really means

 

According to what you just posted, the exhaust valve is open for 20* more rotation than the intake valve. It can flow more exhaust through when open longer but it isn't typical to see more than 10* more on the exhaust side. Nitrous builds sometimes utilize a cam with lots of extra exhaust duration and a wide (ie. your 114) lobe center. That might make your cam shine when you spray the motor.

 

so strap the bottle on it and it should or might wake it up? so i shouldnt buy new heads just port mine as much as i can? what about a cam? i want to run 10's on motor. i have seen cars run 10's on motor with a 355 and weight is similar to mine, mine weights 3300 with me

 

By looking at your cam specs. it looks like a nitrous cam. If you were to put nitrous on the motor know im sure you will see good results. But you will have to change the rear gear to something like a 3.89 gear. For more na horsepower switch the cam and port the heads. If you cant port them try and get a professional to do it.Some one like Total eng airflow , bfe racing heads or Brandywine basically When one of these people are done thay will give you a flow sheet call two or three of your favorite cam grinder like cam motion, compcams or lunati. Give them your flow #s and check your comp. and car specs thay will call you back with a cam grind. If it were my motor and I wanted a na motor I would have a cam on a 108 or 106 lobe sep.

 

what shuold the average price be for a fully port and polish job. would it be silly to spend that much on that when for couple hundered more just buy new ones? thanks for the info so far

 

You will only get about half of your money out of your old heads.As for porting your heads I find the biggest bang for the buck is to pocket port, short side radius and unshrroud the valves in the chamber. Also a good perf valve job works much better ask them to try your valve job with a 30 deg back cut on the intake valve.Port work varies in price but should cost around 400-600 dollars + valve job. As for new heads I like the afr 210 for your combo or dart and brodix of the same size.I also think your combo know would go faster with a 750 cfm carb and a standard vic jr 2975

 

I have a freind that has a 750 i will have to try that out and if it goes faster i will give the vic jr a try as well. i had a vic jr on it before but i didnt run the car with it. this is going ot make me sound really dumb but what is the advantages of the 18 degree style head over the 23 degree. will the 18 bolt on to a older style block? will i have to change the intake to a 23 degree style or are they the same?

 

what you guys think of the afr 227 heads

 

I think thay are way to big for the motor you have now put them on a 406 you will have a good combo.

 

so something more like the 220's or 210's?

 

Yes if you were running a 383 or larger motor I would try the 220 or 227.