How to change cap & rotor?
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal, L.A.
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: Built 383 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt, 3.27:1 Posi
How to change cap & rotor?
That got your attention, didn't it!!
You thought that I was serious huh?
Well unfortunatley, I am!! My problem is that I have gigantic hands, (being 6'4") and no room to work! But then again, no thirdgen has any room at all anyways.
Here's the story. I bought plug wires, cap, & rotor, and found that my hand doesn't fit between the firewall, and the cap (to reach the rear screw). Also, the screw driver is too long to fit. It hits the top of the firewall. I have a minimal amount of tools right now, (due to an argument), so I would loosen up the dist. bolt, and turn the rotor, but I hope that I don't have to do that.
How do you guys get at that screw?
Btw, I have the stock TPI intake.
You thought that I was serious huh?
Well unfortunatley, I am!! My problem is that I have gigantic hands, (being 6'4") and no room to work! But then again, no thirdgen has any room at all anyways.
Here's the story. I bought plug wires, cap, & rotor, and found that my hand doesn't fit between the firewall, and the cap (to reach the rear screw). Also, the screw driver is too long to fit. It hits the top of the firewall. I have a minimal amount of tools right now, (due to an argument), so I would loosen up the dist. bolt, and turn the rotor, but I hope that I don't have to do that.
How do you guys get at that screw?
Btw, I have the stock TPI intake.
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Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 357
Likes: 0
From: KC. KS
Car: 89 Firebird
Engine: 408
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt/4.11
I bought a short screwdriver so I can reach back in there and get to that screw. Before that I always just loosened the bolt and turned the distributor so I could get to it!!
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From: colorado
Car: 1992 Trans/am convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700r4
Axle/Gears: 2.73 drum WS6
Or get someone like a GF, a freind a kid... to tighten it up for you. Unless you can get the dist. back where it was I would not move it. Just get a lill screw driver and you'll be fine.
Ya know, big hands big feet... Big socks
Ya know, big hands big feet... Big socks
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From: MD
Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
mark the distributor housing and manifold, twist the distributor to get to the screw and replace the cap/rotor. When you're done line up the marks then set timing with a light.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 1,069
Likes: 1
From: So. Cal, L.A.
Car: '88 Firebird Formula 350
Engine: Built 383 TPI
Transmission: Built 700r4
Axle/Gears: 9 bolt, 3.27:1 Posi
Yeah, my girlfreind offered to help, (that's why I love her!!) I was trying to use a stubby, but the grip is too fat. Then the one that is the perfect length, the tip is too small for the screw. But I should get a screw driver for this job only. I'll save it for only cap & rotor jobs! I guess that I need to go to Harbor Freight tonight!!
Thanks for all of the help.
Thanks for all of the help.
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 4
From: Bonner Springs, KS
Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
I'm with Red Devil on this one... I have a flexible shaft 1/4" driver (made by Stanley, got it at Wal-mart surprisingly enough).. That thing is friggin' awesome. If you have the divorced coil (small cap) HEI setup, you can use one of those flexible drivers with a 5.5mm socket to loosen the distributor cap screws.
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Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 814
Likes: 2
From: San Jose, CA, USA
Car: 88 IROC-Z - original owner!
Engine: LB9 with K&Ns, MSD, Foil, Taylor
Transmission: WC T-5
Axle/Gears: BW 9-bolt, 3.45 posi
Hey man, I'm 6'3" with big hands, and I have no problem at al changing my cap and rotor, module, the whole dizzy, whatever. Use a short screwdriver.
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