Crank Shaft Problems
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From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA, 2003 Grand Am GT
Engine: 350 Tune Port
Transmission: 700R4
Crank Shaft Problems
I need some advice on an engine build. I just started and I am putting a brand new Eagle crank into an 88' 350 block. My problem is that the back part of the crank hits the block (I included pics). At this point I am unsure if the crank is the wrong one or if I should should relieve the block a little. Everyone else about the crank seems correct. The oil clearances are exact and the measurements are relatively close to the stock crank.
Also, does the crank need to be balanced before installing it? I just assumed that the factory balanced it and the harmonic blaancer took car of the rest.
I greatly appreciate everyones help!
Also, does the crank need to be balanced before installing it? I just assumed that the factory balanced it and the harmonic blaancer took car of the rest.
I greatly appreciate everyones help!
Joined: Aug 1999
Posts: 858
Likes: 6
From: Elkton MD, USA
Car: 1985 Camaro Z28, VIN F
Engine: 427 sbc, HSR
Transmission: T-56, self rebuilt 700+ hp
Axle/Gears: Moser 12bolt, 3.42 trutrac
Originally Posted by wildjyoung
I need some advice on an engine build. I just started and I am putting a brand new Eagle crank into an 88' 350 block. My problem is that the back part of the crank hits the block (I included pics). At this point I am unsure if the crank is the wrong one or if I should should relieve the block a little. Everyone else about the crank seems correct. The oil clearances are exact and the measurements are relatively close to the stock crank.
Also, does the crank need to be balanced before installing it? I just assumed that the factory balanced it and the harmonic blaancer took car of the rest.
I greatly appreciate everyones help!
Also, does the crank need to be balanced before installing it? I just assumed that the factory balanced it and the harmonic blaancer took car of the rest.
I greatly appreciate everyones help!
balanced for a heavy (stock) rotating assembly (rods/pistons).
You need to keep 0.060" between anything rotating in the motor, and the
block, so you will probably need to clearance the block a bit in that area.
(I've seen 383 cranks need clearancing in that area)
You should always have a new crank balanced, no matter what the
vendor says, every engine is different. A harmonic balancer is not a
"balancer", it's actually a damper.. It helps absorb vibrations that could
contribute to engine failure, it doesn't balance the crank. (Although ext
balanced motors store some of the balance mass on the damper for
convenience)
mike
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA, 2003 Grand Am GT
Engine: 350 Tune Port
Transmission: 700R4
Crank Problems
I greatly apreciate your help! I am guessing that I am just going to buy a new crank, because as your said this one looks like it is for a heavy stcok engine. Could this be a truck crank?
Also, not to sound stupid but how would I go about getting a new crank balanaced. Also, how much HP can a cast Eagle crank support? Should I consider going with a stroker crank? Summit has one on sale right now for $175.00 for a cast, 1 piece crank.
Also, not to sound stupid but how would I go about getting a new crank balanaced. Also, how much HP can a cast Eagle crank support? Should I consider going with a stroker crank? Summit has one on sale right now for $175.00 for a cast, 1 piece crank.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
There's nothing wrong with that crank, there's no reason to send it back. Just clearance the block a little with a die grinder and it will be fine.
It does need to be balanced though. You need to take it to a machine shop, with all your pistons, all your rods, a set of rings, and a set of rod bearings.
You could get a stroker crank if you wanted, but you'd need either new rods or new pistons. There'd also probably be more clearancing work required.
It does need to be balanced though. You need to take it to a machine shop, with all your pistons, all your rods, a set of rings, and a set of rod bearings.
You could get a stroker crank if you wanted, but you'd need either new rods or new pistons. There'd also probably be more clearancing work required.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA, 2003 Grand Am GT
Engine: 350 Tune Port
Transmission: 700R4
Crank
How will this crank do in regards to performance? I realize that I can make it work, but I rather it be a peformance enahancing part. Plus, I think the crank would still hit the side of the oil pan.
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 20,981
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
In regards to performance compared to what?
It will probably clear the oil pan fine, but even if it doesn't, a couple taps on the pan with a ball peen hammer will fix it.
It will probably clear the oil pan fine, but even if it doesn't, a couple taps on the pan with a ball peen hammer will fix it.
Thread Starter
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iTrader: (6)
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 443
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From: Northern Kentucky
Car: 1991 Trans Am GTA, 2003 Grand Am GT
Engine: 350 Tune Port
Transmission: 700R4
Crank
In terms of performance I am looking to get about 350-400 HP. I just want to make sure that the crank I have or another similiar cast unit can 1) produce 350-400 HP and 2) Handle 350-400 HP.
Thank you for everyones help!
Thank you for everyones help!
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