This happened a few weeks ago and I was fed up to the point of just parking the car.

I recently bought the car 350 tpi...beautiful...and I had only a cold start problem which required me to start the car then rev the engine for a while until the car warmed up enough to drive. Then one especially cold day I noticed that the car wouldn't warm up enough. I'd throw it in reverse and the moment the car shifted the already low idle (600 to 800) switched to below 400 and then just died out. I got to the point where I was getting late for work and didn't have time to wait so I would rev the engine while throwing it in reverse. I had to keep my foot on the gas most of the time and had to gun it around corners as it would die if I turned.

After reading much of sites like this I found that it could be one of three problems so after replacing spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor button I found no new change. I searched out a vacuum leak to find a major one by the iac (which I cleaned while it was disconnected) and replaced the bad gasket to watch the vacuum pressure rize back to normal. I checked the fuel pressure to note that it was also at the appropriate level.

I'm at a loss for what it could be. When I originally had the problem I also noted a lot of black smoke that would pour out the exhaust until I raised the rpms.

My mechanic friend suggested I test the mass air flow sensor.

I unplugged it and it made no difference plugged in or not.

any help would be appreciated.

 

Welcome Aboard!

If unplugging the MAF makes no difference, there is a problem. Is the "Check Engine" light illuminated while the engine is running? Have you scanned for stored error codes?

 

thanks for the welcome-

yes the light normally was on but it was on all the time. I'm sure its because one of the connectors was fried and I haven't had functional lights since I got the car so I couldn't read the code nor tell if it was just an electrical malfunction. Litterally the connector to the interior lights was melted at one point.

At my work we have a genisys diag tool but our resources only went back as far as 92. Is there perhaps another diag tool that would be more effective?

 

when you find out what it is let me know

 

well update I changed the fuel filter and noticed a couple of injectors leaking (2 and 3) and replaced them as well. Unfortunatly no change in problem. I went out and bought a service manual and tried troubleshooting the problem by checking fuel for the third time.

I noticed a few things that might help in figuring out my problem and that was that the car will run and will idle but it acts like it is about to shut off completely then something kicks it back up and so it bounces from about 1k all the way down to 100 rpms. If ever I try to give it gas it shuts down immediatly.

I tried to get the codes but I think my light isn't plugged in or something because the service engine light never came on.

Any help would be wonderful.

 

Another quick update. I called one of my elderly mechanic friends who was used to working on old chevy's and tried to show him the problem just to have him look at me like I was stupid and turn the distributer a notch. Apparently when I went to set timing I didn't have the right tool to tighten it down and thusly fixed the vehicle to the point of running and driving.

However now it has a low rpm bog only sometimes when I tap the gas...like when throwing it in reverse and trying to back up. It bogs like its gonna shut off and then picks back up...but if I hit the gas hard it just peels out a bit and responds like normal. Any ideas?

 

i have the same car as yours in it being a 350 TPI with an auto and i am having a little of the same problem. it has a little hard starting and it will die if i don't keep my foot in the gas a little at first. i'm thinking that it seems a little like the timing is off some (like too advanced or something) i'm gonna put the gun on it tomorrow and see what it is set at. i originally had it set at 8 degrees advanced and it worked fine but i am kinda thinking that i didn't get the distributor bolt tight enough. i know that a too advanced engine will be harder to start but i don't understand it not idling very well until it warms up? i'll let you guys know if i figure anything out in the morning.

 

You guys really need to see if theres any codes stored ..heres some info to think about.When cold ..you turn the key to the run position the ECM looks at the coolant temp sensor and the TPS and adjusts fuel to start the engine.If the coolant temp sensor isnt accurate then you will get a hard start and possibly black smoke.I believe the TPI also has a cold start injector on it.Did you check that one too?But you need to get a scanner and pull codes or fix the light for the SES and go from there.

 

i have checked the codes and there aren't any coming up. if your TPS was off would it also cause a hard start problem? i haven't ever checked that? how do you check the coolant temp sensor? i am not running the TPI system anymore as i am running the HSR that has no cold start injector.

 

i have checked the codes and there aren't any coming up. if your TPS was off would it also cause a hard start problem? i haven't ever checked that? how do you check the coolant temp sensor? i am not running the TPI system anymore as i am running the HSR that has no cold start injector.

TPS and coolant temp sensor will need to be checked with a scanner.Thats the best way to check them.What does HSR stand for?.

 

Holley Stealth Ram it is a intake manifold. what kind of scanner? where could i find one? i fixed a little bit of the hard starting problem by lowering the initial timing advance to 8 degrees and it starts a little faster but it still has a little bit of a problem idleing. i was thinking maybe one of two of the spark plugs were fouled. the exhaust smells alot like gas.

 

Hey just got done fixing my 88' but with a 305. Codes would actually flash on and off. Thought it was the MAF but actually turned out to be the EGR valve sticking and not letting the car open up right. Just replaced it only cost 45 bucks. Car is running smoother than ever. Pull the egr and see if its burned or if its re-coiling back ok. Also blow out the vacuum line thats atched to it.

 

Yea with the HSR it has no EGR and i know that that cannot be it becuase i haven't had egr for about a year now and it hasn't had this problem. i took my plugs out and they had all been fouled so i put new ones back in and it helped out alot but still studdering and i am pretty sure it is the vavle adjustment. i can hear a few of the lifter clicking pretty good. gonna try and adjust them and hopefully that does it.