Well, it would be all broken down by now but I can't get the rod caps off! I'm running Eagle H-Beams with the ARP bolts (no nuts).

Does anyone have any safe tips for removing these caps?

 

a few more threads and I think TGO will be forced to add your very own sub category into tech/general engine

I dont know the answer, i just wanted to show my appreciation for you asking questions i also wouldnt mind knowing the answer to, thank you

p.s.: my method involved gentle persuasion from a hammer on the rod bolts, but im an idiot so theres a good possibility my way sucks

 

Well, there are many, MANY things I realized I don't have a clue about. These are small things that aren't usually discussed but (since I am not sure) they may or may not affect how motors operate.

For instance, turning the motor over with the rods and pistons in it but not having the rod caps on (or torqued) may damage the crank somehow and you don't think about these things until you get there. I'm not afraid to ask, some guys on here know so much about motors it isn't funny. Theres also a lot of BS running around so I try to take everything with a grain of salt.

But, I just got done pulling the bottom end out completly. I just tapped one end of the caps with my rubber dead blow hammer until it came off. I just didn't want to hurt anything. I've realized the clearances in motors are redicuoulsy tiny and sneezing may throw something off.

 

Heh heh. I know that feeling. In reality, things actually square themselves up quite nicely when you assemble them, assuming the machining is done properly. Getting rod caps off can sometimes give you the heebie-jeebies, I know. If you get stuck, remember you can loosen the nuts and use a drift to drive against the ends of the rod bolts to pop them apart. Obviously, you need something holding the rod cap firmly while you do this. Something like still having the rod attached to the crank journal so you can use it like a mandrel to drive against or a set of brass-jaws in your vice if the rod's out of the motor and you need something to hold it in place (don't use steel jaws directly against the sides of the rod- it'll tear them up and they ARE bearing surfaces for rod side clearance against the crank and the other rod on the journal).

If you don't want to get nervous DON'T read the next paragraph- I used to agonize about this, although there is really nothing to fear.....

When you install the rod caps on the rods during final assembly inside the motor (attaching the rod to the crank)..... what prevents the caps from twisting just a little crooked as you tighten the rod nuts? Answer..... nothing, really, except the tight fit between the rod bolt and the hole in the cap though which it passes. Now do you see why they make it so hard to get the caps off? If you read this far I'll bet your hair is standing on end right now. Heh heh. It's all good. Don't sweat it.

 

Tapping on the rod bolts always makes me nervous with through bolts. With cap screws it's fine though. Just back the screws out a few turns at a time and tap lightly on their heads.

If it's out of the engine, I like to just hold the rod in my hand, and tap lightly on alternating sides of the cap with a brass hammer to wiggle it loose.

 

How do cap screws differ? Mine are just bolts that screw into the rod, no nuts.

 

That's what a cap screw is.

 

Try tapping at them gently with a hammer as you pull them off. Don't go apresh1t on them, you don't want to damage them, but just tap on them as you are pulling on the cap. Thats worked for me before.