All,

I am beginning my first engine rebuild in 35 years. I have received my engine back from the machine shop. I need to buy a ring compressor,. What is the best/value for money?

Also, I don't remember, do you lubricate either the cylinder bores or the rings to protect them at initial start up?

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George Clay

 

Yes, lubricate everything for sure.

The best ring compressors are the single-size tapered ones, but you have to buy one for every different overbore size you use.

Second best are the plier-type band compressors.

Absolute worst and not better than no compressor at all are the wraparound band types that get tightened with the little key.

 

I prefer the crinkly-band type. That kind is very easy to hold up against the deck and push the piston through, without the rings popping out.

I agree with Apeiron, the VERY WORST are the smooth-band type. Very hard to use without the compressor trying to go into the cylinder.

I use a coffee can with some 2-stroke oil about 1" deep to prelube the pistons, I just dip the piston in it up to the rings, and smear a bit on the cyl walls.

I usually wear some disposable rubber or plastic gloves while building a motor. Put some pieces of clear plastic tubing, that's like aquarium tubing, on the rod bolts before putting them in; put the bearings in a pan of clean lacquer thinner; wipe the crank journal with a clean lint-free cloth or paper (coffee filter works good) and follow with spray-can carb cleaner or starting fluid; put a few drops of oil using a plews type oil can on the journal before installing the rod/piston (I use either lightweight synthetic oil or ATF, as build lube); clean off the piston skirts and the rings, and the inside of the ring compressor, and the bearing bore of the rod and cap, with the spray cleaner just before putting the compressor on the piston; make sure the rings are in the correct orientation; take the bearings out of the pan of thinner one at a time and let them dry for a few seconds, then put them into the rod and cap, BE SURE NOT TO TOUCH THEM; put the piston in the bore, and use the end of the handle of a hammer to bonk it in; make sure the ring compressor stays UP AGAINST THE DECK. If the rings pop out of the compressor before they go in the bore, STOP and put the compressor back on, and re-try to stab the piston in.

 

huh, crap, wish I would have known about the other kind of ring compressors. I have that "bad" style one... boy it's tricky to use.

rod bolt boots are also easy to come by, made by clevite usually, little blue packet.

clevite also makes "bearing guard" (aka strawberry bearing jam), and lubriplate makes "105", for assembly type grease. Usually people like to use a heavier lube for bearings for initial startup, compared to a light oil...

 

My rod bolt boots are even easier to find. They're made by Gates Rubber and come in a long roll that says 3/8" Fuel Hose.

Yet another reason I love cap screw rods though, no rod bolts to worry about nicking the crank with.

 

I would like to thank all of you for your replies. I am currently rebuilding a 6 cyl engine and after my successful rebuild, I want to rebuild some form of a 350 (perhaps an lt1), so I think I will look for a good set of band type Ring Compressors.

I got new pistons, and bolts as part of a performance kit. The machine shop balanced the engine. I am a bit confused about what you meant by getting aquarium hose. Are you saying to cover the rod bolds already mounted on the connecting rod with rubber so they don't score up either the cylinder walls, or the crakshaft bearings as it is being pushed down from the top...or are you talking about something else?

Regards,

George Clay

 

Put the hose over the rod bolts as you put the pistons in so that the sharp threads don't nick the polished surface of the crank journals. It takes surprisingly little contact to do a lot of damage.

 

i like the one piece tapered type, nothing easier to use. i slip a piece of fuel line hose on the rod bolts, to protect the crank and to give me something to hold on to.