freeze plug lost in block
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
freeze plug lost in block
So, I was removing my freeze plugs, and the rear two on the sides of the block don't have as much room behind the plugs to move around, making them.... annoying...
Anyway, the back right one I think it was, I hammered it into the block, then was trying to get my channel locks on it to yank it out, and "clink", it dropped. ok, so I was hammering on it with a screwdriver, and friggen took off somewhere in there.
Usually I can just fish it out with my magnet, but this one.... It went towards the back of the block somewhere...? I spun the motor around on the stand a few times, and didn't get any flopping around sounds.
I'm slightly leery about leaving it in there
...
Is there another solution that i'm not thinking about?
Thanks
Anyway, the back right one I think it was, I hammered it into the block, then was trying to get my channel locks on it to yank it out, and "clink", it dropped. ok, so I was hammering on it with a screwdriver, and friggen took off somewhere in there.
Usually I can just fish it out with my magnet, but this one.... It went towards the back of the block somewhere...? I spun the motor around on the stand a few times, and didn't get any flopping around sounds.
I'm slightly leery about leaving it in there
...
Is there another solution that i'm not thinking about?Thanks
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Coat hanger?
Not sure about SBC. With a head off can you look down into the coolant passages on the top of the deck to see it?
Not sure about SBC. With a head off can you look down into the coolant passages on the top of the deck to see it?
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From: Northern California, Redding
Car: Red 1987 IROC Convertible
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Use some air pressure.. or water pressure with a garden hose? It needs to come out.
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Car: 1982 Trans-Am
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Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
hmm, alright, I guess I knew I couldn't leave it in there.. I'll fish around down there with some other tools then...
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
stephen got it this time
! I couldn't get my telescoping magnet to bend around cylinder #8 I think it was, but I could push a screw driver through a head bolt hole, and push it up to where I could get it with my magnet.
**Note, I WILL be sure to put sealer on the head bolts**. Lot of things you learn when having a motor this naked...
Anyway, that last one was nasty to remove, needed a snipe on the channel locks it was so mangled... But since we're on the topic of block plugs:
I ran a 1/4"NPT tap through my front 1/2" galley plug holes. I eyeballed through the hole, and it looks like the 1/2" hole is too big for the tap to do anything, until ~1/2" deep, then it'll engage. I guess the hole tapers down a bit. Just wanted to make sure, there's no problem tapping this fairly deep? I mean, the plugs will be recessed in the holes, and will sit deeper than the original plugs. They're not going to interfere with an oil channel which intersects this hole?
Just a little gunshy this time.
Thanks
**Note, I WILL be sure to put sealer on the head bolts**. Lot of things you learn when having a motor this naked...
Anyway, that last one was nasty to remove, needed a snipe on the channel locks it was so mangled... But since we're on the topic of block plugs:
I ran a 1/4"NPT tap through my front 1/2" galley plug holes. I eyeballed through the hole, and it looks like the 1/2" hole is too big for the tap to do anything, until ~1/2" deep, then it'll engage. I guess the hole tapers down a bit. Just wanted to make sure, there's no problem tapping this fairly deep? I mean, the plugs will be recessed in the holes, and will sit deeper than the original plugs. They're not going to interfere with an oil channel which intersects this hole?
Just a little gunshy this time.
Thanks
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Joined: Jul 1999
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Originally Posted by Sonix
I ran a 1/4"NPT tap through my front 1/2" galley plug holes. I eyeballed through the hole, and it looks like the 1/2" hole is too big for the tap to do anything, until ~1/2" deep, then it'll engage.
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Originally Posted by Stephen 87 IROC
Is it a 1/4" pipe thread hole or a 3/8" pipe thread hole?
The hole in the block was 1/2", but it tapers down to 3/8" from what i've heard. The tap size for a 1/4"NPT tap is 7/16". I ran a 1/4"NPT tap in ways, but I need to go further, I only have 3 threads maybe. Is that what you were asking?
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For the 2 holes to the sides of the cam, the plug can go in until it hits the front-most lifter. Also, drill a hole about .020" or so (#70 drill bit is good) in each of those 2 plugs, for timing chain oiling.
For the hole above the cam, look inside there, and observe the vertical hole that feeds downward to the cam bearing. That hole also feeds the front main bearing and the #1 rod bearing. The plug MUST NOT obstruct that hole. Don't drill this plug.
For the hole above the cam, look inside there, and observe the vertical hole that feeds downward to the cam bearing. That hole also feeds the front main bearing and the #1 rod bearing. The plug MUST NOT obstruct that hole. Don't drill this plug.
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