Distributor Rebuild
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Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 46
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From: Ontario
Car: 91redTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Distributor Rebuild
Hi, I did a search on this and didnt come up with much detail. I am rebuilding my distributor, new Gear, Module, Pick-up Coil. I have it all apart and cleaned. My Question is...Is there any special lubrication for certain areas? I know the Module gets the heat sink grease, but what about when I slide the shaft back down. Do I use motor oil, or some sort of moly grease? Any other lubrication points being missed? THX
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
Car: 91redTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Thanks for the response. so I'll be using motor oil on the shaft. Is there any other points that need lubrication. Got the module covered. I dont think the pick-up coil has any. With regards to shimming, I didnt notice any when I removed the distributor. Are there any handy tips I am misiing? THX
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Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
use a feeler gauge and check the endplay between the top of the gear, and the main shaft. Should be ~.020" I think (check this in haynes or search on the boards..), if it's up around .050" or so like most of that age are, get the mr gasket distributor shim kit (I forget the p/n), $4, and stack some shims in there. Helps eliminate spark scatter, etc.
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From: Mercedes Norte, Heredia, Costa Rica
Car: 1984 Z28 Hardtop
Engine: 383 Carb
Transmission: 4L60
Axle/Gears: 3.54 Dana 44
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
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From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
nice!
Not sure I agree with the timing curve suggested though. 29* with vacuum? like 19* advance at WOT being suggested as best?
Not sure I agree with the timing curve suggested though. 29* with vacuum? like 19* advance at WOT being suggested as best?
Member
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 355
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From: Central California Coast SM
Car: 91 Z28 24th Anniversary
Engine: L98
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: Posi 3.23
I wouldn't call that a rebuild, considering all you did was replace the module and pickup coil. If you would have replaced the bushings, which you can't, that's what I would call a rebuild. I hope the bushings were tight. The engine oil is what actually lubes the distributor.
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Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: Ontario
Car: 91redTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
This is my first time pulling and sevicing the distributor...so just to clarify, what part is the bushing? As far as I could tell from the disassembly there aren't a whole lot of wear parts, aside from the three pieces I replaced. Could you let me know what it looks like and where it is. THX
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 46
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From: Ontario
Car: 91redTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
OK, I'm trying to put the distributor back in and the rotor direction is not lining up with my reference marks. When I pulled the distributor, the timing tab was at 0* and the rotor was pointing at number 1. As far as I can tell both exhaust and intake are closed(no compression on the springs. My rotor is now pointing to something like #8 or 4. Any Idea on what should be done to get this to line up? THX
EDIT...I turned the crankshaft and watched as the intake opened and then closed after the timing mark passed the timing tab 0*. When the timing mark came back around both valves remained closed (no movement since the intaked fully closed. The Rotor still points where cylinder 8 should be instead of cylinder 1. Am I missing something? THX
EDIT...I turned the crankshaft and watched as the intake opened and then closed after the timing mark passed the timing tab 0*. When the timing mark came back around both valves remained closed (no movement since the intaked fully closed. The Rotor still points where cylinder 8 should be instead of cylinder 1. Am I missing something? THX
Last edited by 91redTA; Aug 20, 2006 at 06:59 PM.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 46
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From: Ontario
Car: 91redTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
ttt
THis is an FYI...I found out what I was overlooking. At the base of the distributor shaft there is a rectangle point. The distributor gear slides over it and houses it around the bottom. That turns out to work the Oil pump, of which commonly moves when the distributor is removed. 1 quick tool down the opening and then aligned to #1 firing and were all set. Distributor locked back down and all is back to normal. When I did a search for distributor removal and finding TDC, this little tidbit didn't come up.
THis is an FYI...I found out what I was overlooking. At the base of the distributor shaft there is a rectangle point. The distributor gear slides over it and houses it around the bottom. That turns out to work the Oil pump, of which commonly moves when the distributor is removed. 1 quick tool down the opening and then aligned to #1 firing and were all set. Distributor locked back down and all is back to normal. When I did a search for distributor removal and finding TDC, this little tidbit didn't come up.
Last edited by 91redTA; Aug 21, 2006 at 08:18 PM.
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Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 726
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From: League City, TX
Car: 90 Formula -- tot resto in progress
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4 w/ 2500 stall, by Owen @ ARD
Axle/Gears: 3.23 posi disc
Well-done, young Jedi.
Re-aligning the distributor is the first
step on the path to true enlightenment.
Us old farts just get the rotor close to position,
then bump the starter till the oil-pump drive seats.
Re-connect coil, check/adjust final timing
with a timing light. ECM systems may be a bit
more involved.
There's a wealth of info & expertise on this board --
bs & cynicism also abound. Good luck & welcome aboard.
kk
Re-aligning the distributor is the first
step on the path to true enlightenment.
Us old farts just get the rotor close to position,
then bump the starter till the oil-pump drive seats.
Re-connect coil, check/adjust final timing
with a timing light. ECM systems may be a bit
more involved.
There's a wealth of info & expertise on this board --
bs & cynicism also abound. Good luck & welcome aboard.
kk
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