305 rebuild, cam concerns
305 rebuild, cam concerns
here's the deal, i just rebuilt my 305 carb'd '84 berlinetta
complete rebuild kit and i opted for a pretty hefty cam something like 230/230 @ .05 320/320 Lift 480/480 Is this too aggressive given that the heads, dist., valve train etc. are still stock?? what would you suggest as far as timing? should i expect to have to run a higher stall conv.?
any help?!?
Charlie
complete rebuild kit and i opted for a pretty hefty cam something like 230/230 @ .05 320/320 Lift 480/480 Is this too aggressive given that the heads, dist., valve train etc. are still stock?? what would you suggest as far as timing? should i expect to have to run a higher stall conv.?
any help?!?
Charlie
it was a complete master rebuild kit, cam, pistons (flat forged .030), bearings, lifters, high vol. oil pump, timing sprockets/chain, reconditioned rods, im running headers on it as well. as far as compression.. i dont know for sure but im guessing since stock is roughly 8.6:1 the new pistons will push it closer to 9-9.5 the cam was an option with the kit and did not require a new conv. as others in the kit did. what problems would i have with this cam and what would have to be done to run it? or would it simply be better to go with a smaller cam?
its a street car by all means but as far as ride quality, idle etc. im not picky there are just the 2.73's in the rear thinking of goin with somethin bigger but not at the moment lemme know what ya think
Supreme Member
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 10,763
Likes: 4
From: Calgary, AB, Canada
Car: 1982 Trans-Am
Engine: 355 w/ ported 416s
Transmission: T10, hurst shifter
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt, true-trac, 3.73
3.73 gears for sure. It'll be a dogs breakfast off the line with 2.73s. It'll also need a bigger stall speed on that. I am not even going to try to suggest one for you, as i'm not much for auto trannys. Someone here will know though.
You will NEED to pin your rocker studs on your cylinder heads, or pull them and tap for threaded ones.
you will NEED new valve springs. Put on new valve seals too, if you haven't already.
You will NEED to pin your rocker studs on your cylinder heads, or pull them and tap for threaded ones.
you will NEED new valve springs. Put on new valve seals too, if you haven't already.
Figure out what compression ratio you are going to have, Do you know the spec on the pistons?
Port the stock heads install 1.94 intake valves, 1.6 roller rockers, springs to match cam, I can give you a few pointers on porting if you need some?
ZZ4 intake drop the plenum divider down an inch
1 5/8 Headers, 3 inch y pipe, 3 inch high flow converter, 3 inch all the way back to magnaflow muffler
Shift kit and 2800 stall, 3.73 gears
Go over to the carb board and read up on the q-jet.. how to tune it...etc
As far as the cam goes, it is far from optimum...... I would run something in the 21x/21x on a 10x LSA and low .500 for lift
This should give you a decent combo capable of running well into the 13's
Port the stock heads install 1.94 intake valves, 1.6 roller rockers, springs to match cam, I can give you a few pointers on porting if you need some?
ZZ4 intake drop the plenum divider down an inch
1 5/8 Headers, 3 inch y pipe, 3 inch high flow converter, 3 inch all the way back to magnaflow muffler
Shift kit and 2800 stall, 3.73 gears
Go over to the carb board and read up on the q-jet.. how to tune it...etc
As far as the cam goes, it is far from optimum...... I would run something in the 21x/21x on a 10x LSA and low .500 for lift
This should give you a decent combo capable of running well into the 13's
Trending Topics
Supreme Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 6,111
Likes: 53
From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
with your near stock motor you'd be much better off with a mild cam. The big 230deg cam will be a dog in a stock motor with 2.73:1 gearing. Install a cam with 195 to 206 deg @.050 intake duration. may seem sexy to have a big cam but unless you have all the supporting stuff like high compression, free breathing heads, high stall converter and high rear gear ratio its not going to work.
This Crane cam works well Crane #113501 grind Z-256-2
thats as big as I'd go.
This Crane cam works well Crane #113501 grind Z-256-2
thats as big as I'd go.
thanks guys! for now, being a college kid and all i think im going to opt. for a milder cam. Eventually i'd like to do some more serious mods, heads, entire valve train, conv. etc. OR i may just throw a 383 in for fun there'll be plenty of posts when that time comes im sure. thanks again for all the help
Member
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 307
Likes: 2
From: Troy, MI
Car: 1988 IROC-Z TBI
Engine: L04.3 = 305-310-336
Transmission: TH-700R4
Axle/Gears: 10-bolt, 3.42 posi
That cam would be useless for a stock 305. It will destroy your low-rpm and your exhaust and heads won't allow it to make high-rpm power (like that cam is designed for). You'd be lucky if the car could move itself off-idle and I doubt you'd make 200hp somewhere over 5000 rpm. Even with the right heads, exhaust and carb that cam would want to go to 7000 rpm and probably wouldn't make as much power as a "better" cam then. You'd need way steeper gears (3.73 for sure) and at least 3000 rpm stall.
You'd be much better off with something under 210* @ 0.050" -- your car will drive much better and make more torque and hp. Stay away from that cam.
You'd be much better off with something under 210* @ 0.050" -- your car will drive much better and make more torque and hp. Stay away from that cam.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post





