caming a lg4?
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Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Edison nj.
Car: 84 firebird
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.08
caming a lg4?
I have an lg4 in a 84 firebird, my mods are hedman headers/y pipe, and a dynomax 2.5 catback, I dont intend the car to be 1/4 mile princess
I plan on making it a streetable auto-x/ drifting car. So what cam should I use for my car. as well as what valves should I install on my lg4 heads and springs maybe rocker arms??
I plan on making it a streetable auto-x/ drifting car. So what cam should I use for my car. as well as what valves should I install on my lg4 heads and springs maybe rocker arms?? Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,893
Likes: 2,435
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Stick or converter > 2200 RPM, with 3.42 or 3.73 gears: XE262
Stock converter or 3.23 or lower gears = XE256
Remember: stick and gears, or converter and gears, use the bigger cam; auto with stock converter, or any trans and grocery-getter gears, use the lesser one.
Stock converter or 3.23 or lower gears = XE256
Remember: stick and gears, or converter and gears, use the bigger cam; auto with stock converter, or any trans and grocery-getter gears, use the lesser one.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 4
From: Edison nj.
Car: 84 firebird
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.08
COMP Performance Group
wich one do I get?
edit
12-238-2 Chevy 262-400 Xtreme Energy XE262H Cam $146.60
12-262-4 Chevy 262-400 Xtreme Energy Computer Controlled XE262H Cam
wich one do I get?
edit
12-238-2 Chevy 262-400 Xtreme Energy XE262H Cam $146.60
12-262-4 Chevy 262-400 Xtreme Energy Computer Controlled XE262H Cam
Last edited by slowfast; Sep 12, 2006 at 11:35 AM. Reason: link messed up
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,893
Likes: 2,435
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
You have 3.08 gears, if your profile can be believed. You also have an auto, and don't mention a higher stall converter.
Therefore you don't meet the requirements for the XE 262. The XE256 would be the better match to your car.
Get the springs that go with it; should be 981. Rockers wouldn't be a bad idea, since stock ones might as well be rubber, and give away ALOT of lift, and worst of all, they're inconsistent from one to another. Just about anything that isn't stamped sheet metal would be an improvement. The ones to get would depend on your budget, among other things.
Therefore you don't meet the requirements for the XE 262. The XE256 would be the better match to your car.
Get the springs that go with it; should be 981. Rockers wouldn't be a bad idea, since stock ones might as well be rubber, and give away ALOT of lift, and worst of all, they're inconsistent from one to another. Just about anything that isn't stamped sheet metal would be an improvement. The ones to get would depend on your budget, among other things.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 4
From: Edison nj.
Car: 84 firebird
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.08
Im doing a auto-manual swap and Im also looking for 3.73's
Im sorry for not mentioning that before hand.
but I guess the other one would do just fine. Id hate to have my car down for 3-4 months and not get it any faster besides like -60 pounds
Im sorry for not mentioning that before hand.
but I guess the other one would do just fine. Id hate to have my car down for 3-4 months and not get it any faster besides like -60 pounds
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 4
From: Edison nj.
Car: 84 firebird
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.08
the computer controlled one say for tpi I have a computer controlled quadrajet.
Should I get the one that says computer controlled or the one that isnt?
also 425 seems a little steep.. I have gaskets,timing chain etc can I just get valve springs,lifters and anything else id need speerate?
Should I get the one that says computer controlled or the one that isnt?
also 425 seems a little steep.. I have gaskets,timing chain etc can I just get valve springs,lifters and anything else id need speerate?
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
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From: Edison nj.
Car: 84 firebird
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.08
I was just thinking, Is their a cheaper or a generic cam I can go with?
I 450 bucks is a bit high and I can get a runing 350 and drop her in..
I 450 bucks is a bit high and I can get a runing 350 and drop her in..
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Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,893
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Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
$146.60
450 bucks

You can always get something "cheaper"; and you can get alot of things that are less expensive too.

Do you want it to run the best it can, or do you just want to swap out a cam?
I'd recommend that you buy the cam for what you have NOW, as all these "I'm gonna" and I'm looking for" type things always tend to be a little farther in the future than expected.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 4
From: Edison nj.
Car: 84 firebird
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.08
12-238-2 Chevy 262-400 Xtreme Energy XE262H Cam $146.60
thats just the cam
the lifters/springs and everything else and the cam are listed as 5450
thats just the cam
the lifters/springs and everything else and the cam are listed as 5450
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,893
Likes: 2,435
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
Doesn't matter whether you use a cheeepie cam or what; springs, hardware, rockers, etc. cost what they cost.
Look at it this way: how much do you think you'd "save" by going with an inferior cam? How much less improvement would it give you? How much would you spend on carburetors, chrome valve covers, or other things that DON'T improve how the car runs?
About the SINGLE CHEAPEST PART of upgrading a motor, is the cam. About the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT PART of upgrading a motor, is the cam. Doesn't make alot of sense, if you're after RESULTS, to cheeep out on it. Unless you're just itching to change a cam and it doesn't matter what results you get, as long as you change a cam. (don't laugh, I've seen people like that...)
The same cam will drop right into a running 350. Well, almost; it'd be easier if you turned it off first.
You wanted to know what cam would work the best, well, that's it. You can always get a cheaper one. But don't be surprised when it doesn't run THE BEST it can; that is, when you get beat.
Look at it this way: how much do you think you'd "save" by going with an inferior cam? How much less improvement would it give you? How much would you spend on carburetors, chrome valve covers, or other things that DON'T improve how the car runs?
About the SINGLE CHEAPEST PART of upgrading a motor, is the cam. About the SINGLE MOST IMPORTANT PART of upgrading a motor, is the cam. Doesn't make alot of sense, if you're after RESULTS, to cheeep out on it. Unless you're just itching to change a cam and it doesn't matter what results you get, as long as you change a cam. (don't laugh, I've seen people like that...)
The same cam will drop right into a running 350. Well, almost; it'd be easier if you turned it off first.

You wanted to know what cam would work the best, well, that's it. You can always get a cheaper one. But don't be surprised when it doesn't run THE BEST it can; that is, when you get beat.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 4
From: Edison nj.
Car: 84 firebird
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.08
I know its the best, I want the cam, But I dont want to buy the kit with the springs lifters etc. because I have a cam install kit that includes gaskets and timing chain etc
I just want the cam. and the part numbers for everything else id need for the valve train not gaskets lube or timing chain because Ive got that in my garage.
I was going to do a cam, I stopped when I had to get new springs because I didnt want to take my headers off... then I took them off when I was getting a new motor, their still off, and I want my car to run!
I just want the cam. and the part numbers for everything else id need for the valve train not gaskets lube or timing chain because Ive got that in my garage.
I was going to do a cam, I stopped when I had to get new springs because I didnt want to take my headers off... then I took them off when I was getting a new motor, their still off, and I want my car to run!
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 27,893
Likes: 2,435
Car: Yes
Engine: Usually
Transmission: Sometimes
Axle/Gears: Behind me somewhere
If you change the cam, you MUST change the lifters. There is no option here, if you want it to survive more than a few seconds.
You need to change the springs, no matter what cam you put in. Stock springs are notoriously weenie. Putting any kind of aggressive cam under stock springs is a recipe for guaranteed broken parts.
When you change the springs, you have to use the right retainers and so forth that fit with them. Not all parts of all springs are all the same diameters. Again, broken parts is the result, if the spring is forced oddly onto the steps of the retainers.
I don't understand about the "take headers off" part, when you talk about the springs. The headers aren't in the way of changing out the springs.
The gaskets and timing chain are the LEAST of the parts expenses that are involved. You'll spend more in anti-freeze and oil, let alone filters, hoses, belts and tools, than those insignificant pieces. Don't even bother yourself with that.
It's one of those "are you going to do it or not" kind of things. Not really something to do halfway.
If you're in THAT big of a hurry to get the car running, then just get it runing with the stock stuff that's there; and don't change ANYTHING. Save up and accumulate parts over a period of time, and do it all at once.
If you have some kind of a "kit", then maybe you can use what's in it, and maybe not, with an aftermarket cam. Depends on what it actually is. Might be helpful to tell us.
You need to change the springs, no matter what cam you put in. Stock springs are notoriously weenie. Putting any kind of aggressive cam under stock springs is a recipe for guaranteed broken parts.
When you change the springs, you have to use the right retainers and so forth that fit with them. Not all parts of all springs are all the same diameters. Again, broken parts is the result, if the spring is forced oddly onto the steps of the retainers.
I don't understand about the "take headers off" part, when you talk about the springs. The headers aren't in the way of changing out the springs.
The gaskets and timing chain are the LEAST of the parts expenses that are involved. You'll spend more in anti-freeze and oil, let alone filters, hoses, belts and tools, than those insignificant pieces. Don't even bother yourself with that.
It's one of those "are you going to do it or not" kind of things. Not really something to do halfway.
If you're in THAT big of a hurry to get the car running, then just get it runing with the stock stuff that's there; and don't change ANYTHING. Save up and accumulate parts over a period of time, and do it all at once.
If you have some kind of a "kit", then maybe you can use what's in it, and maybe not, with an aftermarket cam. Depends on what it actually is. Might be helpful to tell us.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 717
Likes: 4
From: Edison nj.
Car: 84 firebird
Engine: 400 sbc
Transmission: th350
Axle/Gears: 3.08
I know, I want to be everythign but the timing chain!!
heres what I found..
ImageShack - Hosting :: untitledoe0.png
heres what I found..
ImageShack - Hosting :: untitledoe0.png
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