Ok,, you need to read the story before anything
stock motor 220 000 KM has been knocking since i bought it, and the owner said it never made the noise before, so it was probably cuz it sat there for 2 years and i bet it was never started in those 2 years, it was also really cold when i bought it. it knocked the entire way home and about 100 k after that

then after it had a total of almost 300 kms with me owning it, the knock disapeared, and now only makes the sound when it starts( for 5 seconds) then when it gets warm it knocks big time!. The car has a lot of power, has no problem chirping yokohamas in third.

ive pulled the driver side valve cover off, and there were no broken springs rockers or pushrods, they all lift fine and are tight. i didnt rev it in video, cuz car is loud and exhaust would screw up the sound, but the knock goes though entire rpm. and it is not smoke out left pipe, its steam. don't be fooled by rocker soundiong noise, its highly unlikely its valve train unless its a lifter. my other thoughts are, can this be computer related? like and air to fuel ratio making a pinging knock noise? the AIR, cats and ac have all been deleted

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LQ2uBFtNpmo

 

sounds like a rod to me...

 

pussrod or connecting? would i learn a lot more by dropping the pan, or can i even tell if theres a spun bearing, new motor time? yes, but i need this motor to last till summer

 

connecting rod i meant.

If its still got decent oil pressure you can try your luck and see if it will last till summer. But im going to say chances are slim and your just going to end up putting a rod through the block making a nice big mess...


good luck trying to get the pan out to do an inspection on it!

I would say your best bet is to pull the motor and go through the bottom end.

With basic tools and knowlege you should be able to pull the motor, throw in new bearings and be back on the road in a weekend. Its really not as big of a job as it may seem...


The first time i pulled the 350 in my camaro i started saturday morning and had it done by sunday afternoon. Now i have it down to just a couple hours, started friday after work and was driving by noon saturday!

 

ya, i def do not want to crack my block, or even hurt my rods and crank, anything else can blow up in my opinion, is it that hard to drop the pan on these bastards? if it was a rod woyuld it even run tho? and wouldnt the noise be there all the time? it definetly comes and goes, and i can feel it in the shifter, if its really that easy to change motor... it looks like a winter project then. im guessing a month for me, with a mild performance rebuild

 

Yea, you'll want to pull the motor First, before buying anything, to make sure there isnt any damage as of yet.. Thats the thing to do.. Pull the Engine, Lay it out, and dig into it checking everything as you pull it all off... Some people take pictures to remember what they went through or to help them install things..

 

Sounds like when my flexplate broke! or the torque converter to flexplate bolts came loose. You can check those without much hassle.

 

im pretty sure ill pull the motor, but man that would suck if it was something liek a flexplate, but if it is the flex,,,, wouldnt it not start? or make a grinding noise instead of a knock? it does sound like its down there somewhere,, and we did crank the car over a lot iun very cold weather get it going to my house. do i just remove the service plate to get at it? its a manual btw, no torque converter for me

random question. does a 350 have more stroke than a 305, or more displacement?

 

When my flexplate broke, all the bolts around the crankshaft had cracks between them, and gave the same knocking sound a rod knock gives. its worth a shot to take a quick look up there with a flashlight. or even just the bolts to the torque converter.
Yes it would still start

and a 305 has a smaller bore over the 350, same stroke.

3.735 bore vs 4.000 bore.

Just saw you have a manual, for me when the engine was under load, alot of the noise would go away since I believe the motor tensioned up all the slack.
Do you recall anything similiar?

 

ditto on the flex plate


my god, i drove it, parked it and then fired it back up and it sounded like my motor was ready to explode. Wound up being the bolts from the flexplate to the converter had come loose. it was rpm dependent and everything...i could have swore it was a rod...but thats all it wound up being..

 

YES either that or my exhaust covers it up. but it defentetly doesnt make noise under load or downshifting

This site is the reason i bouight a third gen, extremely helpful.... if only i had a ****** and plaid shirt. you saved me from buying a moustang!

T- rav, if its a flexplate.... i owe you a beer,,,,,, a real beer,,,,,, a Canadian beer.

 

Well for you it would be a flywheel. Don't know if the same thing can occur, or if its possible to even see up in their with a clutch in the way, but if you can see anything, make sure to let us know!

 

ya thats, what i ment, i hope i can see SOMETHING even scaches on it or hunks of metal

ill be sure to let ya'll know whats up tommrow, it would be the best christmas if it was 1 dam bolt making that noise, im think it is now, cuz the noise is slightly differnet every time, and has a sort of random ramblin knock, its not just a steady beat, im no rapper, but i know when an engine knock is on the money or off beat lol

 

Flexplates have been known to crack, heck my dads truck did it too! But i very highly doubt you would ever get something similar on a flywheel, their a totally different animal. were talking a piece of 5lb tin vs 50lb steel plate!

I still stand by my opinion of it being a rod rattling around. Sounds exactly like mine when i cooked a rod bearing.

And yes, when its a rod bearing going, at certain loads or RPM the noise will go away.

 

Another thing you can check is your harmonic balancer and the lower pulley. Make sure they aren't loose or broken. I was thinking flexplate/converter to, until I reread and saw its a stick car. I gotta believe its a rod bearing or piston pin. It wouldn't surprise me if it was a pin. Prolly from sitting. If it is a rod bearing the longer you run it the more damage to the crank and the more its gonna cost you to fix it. How does it go.....pay now or pay later!

 

ya, i checked out my flywheel today, pretty much cant find anything, but from what i saw(with someone pushing pedal) was nuthing, im gonna check out the ballencer in an hour but if its not that, it must be a rod right? so the question is..... can i hurt my heads if i drive it, and does anyone have a problem with me shooting a rod through my block or pan.. cuz i have a 76 ish chevy truck with a 350 and no heads, I want to take crank,rods and block from chevy, and heads and intake from l89. the rest of the parts will be perdormance. any problems? mabey main rear seal?

 

keep in mind, i just got this car, and its to cool to just not drive and start the motor swap, I havent even done a burnout in it! so i gotta drivr till she blows, cuz i dont think i have much to lose other than an somewhat rare cars original block and prob crank, but i will save money by not having to bore chevy 350, cuz its already my desired bore. i just hope the rear ame, and if itll fit period!

 

why give up a roller cam, one-piece rear main seal block for a non-roller 2-piece?

 

are you sure its a roller? i thought lt1s were only roller

2 piece too! whaqts a good block i can find somewhere, do vortec truck engines work? i kinda want the vortec heads to kill the vtecs on the street

 

87up motors are 1 piece rollers, the older blocks were 2 piece non rollers

And yeas their is a chance you can damage the heads, when/if the rod breaks loose it can send the piston right into it!

That, and most likely destroy the crank, block, cam and anything close to it...



Any smallblock will drop right in, you can also bolt the vortec heads onto anything provided you have the vortec intake to match.



If i were you i would be looking to find any 87+ 350 block, a set of vortec heads and send them all out to the machine shop to be cleaned up.

 

Seems hell bent on blowing it up!!!

 

i'm sure you know whats its like when your 18, in highschool and got calvaliers and sunfires with exhaust and intake ripping around,, augh i hate domestic rice more than anything. altough i do have my 20 second aerostar that honestly has beaten a cobalt , btw- aerostar was 100 bucks , theres a vid on you tube....... just search urine burnout theres only one vid

 

All the more reason to not blow your motor, you don't want to be revving it with that knock around an import crowd - remember how Rome (Tyrese Gibson) after revving the Eclipse Spyder deflated when the Dodge Charger revved it's big block in 2Fast2Furious - he would have laughed his $ss off if the Charger had thrown a rod.

Bro, I'm still 18 when it comes to cars.

 

Ok your 18......I read that as NOOOOOO money. So....if thats the case how would it NOT be cheaper to repair what you have against building a complete (76 motor) shortblock. As it stands now your prolly looking at re ring and bearings and maybe a polishing of the crank. If you blow it up your looking at a complete rebuild of an old style shortblock? Finacially it doesn't make much sense to me. Drive the aeroturd and fix your L98.

 

you guys are totally right, I thought i'd be saving money and time by building a block right now, while driving the bird, cuz the turd van is reallllly crappy to drive and is lacking in the ***** dept. So ive decided, ill try and pull the block and givr a mild rebuild, nothin fancy... yet

its really frustrating buying a car , that runs, and not driving it

my plan/goal is to have the rebuilt l89 in and running by my graduation. and obv.... smokeshow on the school sidewalk.

this is my school... and what my bro did to it in my dads truck.

 

HAHAHA!

Nice,

How long before the cops nailed him?

 

he never did get busted, belive it or not, there was a camera( u can see it on the corner) and he got his buddy to swing a brick on a stick form the roof to smash it out. it made it to the paper and everything.

on a different note, whats the best place to yank this motor by? 4 bolts to chains on the heads? any other motor pulling tips?

 

It doesnt have the stock hooks on it?

Their should be a little hook at each end of the intake manifold, bolted down with 2 of the intake manifold bolts at each one.

If they are not there, what i have done was just pull a manifold bold on each end and run the bolt through a chain and tighten it back in. But unless you have some longer bolts your going to need to pull the intake to do that. If you decide to go out and but some longer bolts please make sure you buy some grade8 ones at least. I dont want to see come back here and say you have 2 broken legs because the motor fell on you!

 

I don't need no stinkin 454 to do that.

My 305 could do that too.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oi_n0goatA8

 

y lol was that an ls1

the 454 is factory, with no mods...... its got the torquw