I plan on hopefully getting my car running by the end of the month. I broke the cam in last October and the put it away. I use to use Castrol GTX 20-50 in my 305 and my buddy swears by it in his 402 bb. Would this be a good oil to use with an aggressive cam for summer driving?

 

shell rotella 15w40 is nice for flat tappets....or any diesel oil for that matter would still have the additives needed for a flat tappet

 

It's a good oil for those who like to repair engines.

Avoid any oil that is rated for ILSAC GF-4. That's what removes the anti-wear additives that flat tappets need.

As said, typical diesel oils have the antiwear additives. What I'm using:
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/hdd.aspx
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/ame.aspx

 

So im getting ready to break in my new motor with a hyd. flat tappet cam and my engine builder filled it up with penzoil 10w30. I went down to talk to him about running shell rotella to break the cam in and he told me not to listen to the BS lol i guess hes old school i dont know. Im not sure what to do either as i think the instuctions say to just use regular 10w30 oil hmm..

 

Those instructions were written before the additives were removed.

 

I went through 3 cams because of regular oil. I kept thinking it was an installation error, but regular car oil is formulated for modern cars.... almost none of which come with a flat tappet cam.

Either use diesel oil or you can buy GM Engine Oil Supplement.

You could run the castrol, cams aren't that expensive.

 

buy EOS at the dealer

7-8 bucks a bottle

it has the zinc you need in it to break engine parts in correctly and without worry


dont be a dumbie

good luck

 

I will probably buy the EOS to add but the one and only hyd flat tappet cam i had installed before i had no problems breaking in with regular oil. I think half the problem is the quality of the cams being produced.

 

Check this article out.

http://www.hotrod.com/techarticles/e...ppet_cam_tech/

 

Brad Penn racing oil "The Green Oil" (used to be Kendal) has all of the necessary additives for flat tappet cams.

 

How long before? The problem with automotive oil is a relatively new problem. 10 years ago, 5 years ago, you may not have had this problem. Be selective with your break in oil. Use an additive and/or a deisel motor oil. You can debate the quality of the cams, but generally it is the oil which draws concern.

 

I found this at local web site(someone have copied this at Yours web site...)
Tässäpä jenkkiläiseltä keskustelupalstalta leikattu juttu, mihin kaveri on kerännyt eri öljyjen sinkkipitoisuuksia:

"BOTTOM LINE: Running an old engine without zinc in the oil is bad news-- especially when breaking in a fresh build. Ask around and you'll hear about high rates of camshafts going flat. Avoid the problem by choosing the right oil-- that has a zinc content of at least .11%. If you're running zero zinc content oil in an old engine, I believe you're asking for trouble.

I've done some research. Here is the zinc content of todays oils:

20W-50
AMSOIL (old) none
AMSOIL (new) none
Castrol GTX .12
Exxon High Performance .11
Havoline Formula 3 none
Kendall GT-1 .16
Pennzoil GT Perf. none
Quaker State Dlx. none
Red Line none
Shell Truck Guard .15
Spectro Golden 4 .15
Spectro Golden M.G. .13
Unocal .12
Valvoline All Climate .11
Valvoline Turbo .13
Valvoline Race .20
Valvoline Synthetic .12

20W-40
AMSOIL none
Castrol Multi-Grade .12
Quaker State none

15W-50
Chevron .11
Mobil 1 none
Mystic JT8 .15
Red Line none

5W-50
Castrol Syntec .10
Quaker State Synquest none
Pennzoil Performax none

5W-40
Havoline none

15W-40
AMSOIL (old) none
AMSOIL (new) none
Castrol .14
Chevron Delo 400 none
Exxon XD3 .14
Exxon XD3 Extra .13
Kendall GT-1 .16
Mystic JT8 .15
Red Line none
Shell Rotella w/XLA .13
Valvoline All Fleet .15
Valvoline Turbo .13

10W-30
AMSOIL (old) none
AMSOIL (new) none
Castrol GTX .12
Chevron Supreme .11
Exxon Superflo Hi Perf 135 .11
Exxon Superflo Supreme 133 .13
Havoline Formula 3 none
Kendall GT-1 .16
Mobil 1 none
Pennzoil PLZ Turbo none
Quaker State none
Red Line none
Shell Fire and Ice .12
Shell Super 2000 .13
Shell Truck Guard .15
Spectro Golden M.G. none
Unocal Super .12
Valvoline All Climate .11
Valvoline Turbo .13
Valvoline Race .20
Valvoline Synthetic .12

5W-30
AMSOIL (old) none
AMSOIL (new) none
Castrol GTX .12
Chevron Supreme .11
Chevron Supreme Synt. .12
Exxon Superflow HP .11
Havoline Formula 3 none
Mobil 1 none
Mystic JT8 .1
Quaker State none
Red Line none
Shell Fire and Ice .12
Unocal .12
Valvoline All Climate .11
Valvoline Turbo .13
Valvoline Synthetic .12

 

+1 for Shell Rotella 15W-40

 

I just checked the Castrol site and there GTX has no zinc content unless I am reading this sheet wrong. Where did you get your info from??

http://www.castrol.com/liveassets/bp...sd_gtx_usa.pdf

 

No, for some reason, the *******s just failed to list the content in that document. They also failed to list important things like pour point, and flash point, but that in no way means that they don't *have* a flash point or pour point.

 

There is also another link at that original thread: http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html

 

I got my cam from Lunati and to be on the safe side I called them and they recommed any racing oil. The tech said they have done many test on oil with there cams and only racing oil has come out on top. And he said it can been any oil( mobil,castrol,ect) long as its for racing.