broke the oil pan, need help/advice. please
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 321
From: NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
broke the oil pan, need help/advice. please
ok, im really frusterated, because today i took off from work and finished assembling the body of the car; so i was guna drive it tomy painters to ahve him lok it over real quick before it went in for pain in a week or so;
--however, an accident happened, as i was jacking up the car to swap the front wheels, i put a pair of jackstands under the car and one in the center like i usually do(and will never ever do again), welp, as i let the car down on the floor jack, the center one was leaning somehow, and grabbed the "relay bar" that connects the tie rods and all steering stuff, and PUSHED IT UP INTO THE OIL PAN, it happened faster than i could turn the floor jack handle, but enought o do damage, i knew it was bad, and cranked the car for about .5 seconds, and heard the crankshaft knocking into the oil pan, ****, i shut it off and disconnected the batt. so i wouldnt start it anymore;
-then i drained half the oil, drilled and tapped a bolt into the crease; dent, tried to pry it out, got it out a little bit, but its dented so tight, that it aint guna pull out; therefore i am forced to get a new oil pan
if anyone knows anything abotu oil pans on STOCK 305-350 TPI cars, please shed input here for me, thanks
- gettting a new oil pan?
what brand? what style?
1. this milodon (3rd down) ???
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...45643_-1_10457
2. this trans-dapt (3rd one down) ???
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...50265_-1_10457
3. this spectre chromed? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
4. this trans dapt ?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
5. summit racing matches:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294840138
6. this stock one from jegs?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...-1&showValue=2
7. this one from jegs? i think so. ??
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...-1&showValue=2
questions:
1.what is a rear main seal? waht is a 1 piece rear main seal? do i have one (1987 IROC replacement motor from goodwrench)
2. deep sump? kicked out? is there a differene?
3. windages? baffles? i dont think they are in a stock oil pan, what do i need (street car only)
4. oil capactity? 4 quarts? 6 quarts? 5? 7? i see pans offering all different volumes?
- i want to keep this stock, so i know it will go in and on with no problem; i dont want it to hang low, or bump steering or subframe in any way.
removal/installation of oil pan?
1. do i need to jack up the motor like my shop manual says? by removing starter, distributer cap, air intake stuff; and raise the motor up 3-4 inches? in doing this do i have to remove the trans mounts? motor mounts?
turn the balancer to timing mark at 6:00 to crank is facing up mostly?
is there a way to remove the oil pan without using an engine lifter/pcicker? is it safe?
can i do this? or should i have my mecahinc tow the car to his shop and do it for me? what oil pan is the safest to get/will fit?
--however, an accident happened, as i was jacking up the car to swap the front wheels, i put a pair of jackstands under the car and one in the center like i usually do(and will never ever do again), welp, as i let the car down on the floor jack, the center one was leaning somehow, and grabbed the "relay bar" that connects the tie rods and all steering stuff, and PUSHED IT UP INTO THE OIL PAN, it happened faster than i could turn the floor jack handle, but enought o do damage, i knew it was bad, and cranked the car for about .5 seconds, and heard the crankshaft knocking into the oil pan, ****, i shut it off and disconnected the batt. so i wouldnt start it anymore;
-then i drained half the oil, drilled and tapped a bolt into the crease; dent, tried to pry it out, got it out a little bit, but its dented so tight, that it aint guna pull out; therefore i am forced to get a new oil pan
if anyone knows anything abotu oil pans on STOCK 305-350 TPI cars, please shed input here for me, thanks
- gettting a new oil pan?
what brand? what style?
1. this milodon (3rd down) ???
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...45643_-1_10457
2. this trans-dapt (3rd one down) ???
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...50265_-1_10457
3. this spectre chromed? http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
4. this trans dapt ?
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
5. summit racing matches:
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...115+4294840138
6. this stock one from jegs?
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...-1&showValue=2
7. this one from jegs? i think so. ??
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...-1&showValue=2
questions:
1.what is a rear main seal? waht is a 1 piece rear main seal? do i have one (1987 IROC replacement motor from goodwrench)
2. deep sump? kicked out? is there a differene?
3. windages? baffles? i dont think they are in a stock oil pan, what do i need (street car only)
4. oil capactity? 4 quarts? 6 quarts? 5? 7? i see pans offering all different volumes?
- i want to keep this stock, so i know it will go in and on with no problem; i dont want it to hang low, or bump steering or subframe in any way.
removal/installation of oil pan?
1. do i need to jack up the motor like my shop manual says? by removing starter, distributer cap, air intake stuff; and raise the motor up 3-4 inches? in doing this do i have to remove the trans mounts? motor mounts?
turn the balancer to timing mark at 6:00 to crank is facing up mostly?
is there a way to remove the oil pan without using an engine lifter/pcicker? is it safe?
can i do this? or should i have my mecahinc tow the car to his shop and do it for me? what oil pan is the safest to get/will fit?
Supreme Member
iTrader: (45)
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 3,970
Likes: 1
From: Northern, VA
Car: Pair of 92 Z28s
Hey, got your PM but i will just reply here.
I ended up paying a shop to do it, it was a 2.7 hour job they said $200 and was time i didnt have so they got it done. My car would have been a different story but my gf needed her car back sooner.
2 things made me decide to pay a shop: No engine hoist, exhaust Y pipe has to be disconnected. (Factory manifolds/y pipe on her car i didnt want anything to snap just too many problems)
I got an oil pan from someone here on TGO. It was like $20 shipped just ask in the classifieds.
Basically it sounded like a pain in the *** to do without the proper tools. I dont have a cherry picker either.
You need a 1 pc rear main seal oil pan. 86' and newer i believe was 1 pc, before that they were 2 pc. If you want to just go stock, cheap, new pan just get one from your local autoparts store.
Good luck with what you decide!
I ended up paying a shop to do it, it was a 2.7 hour job they said $200 and was time i didnt have so they got it done. My car would have been a different story but my gf needed her car back sooner.
2 things made me decide to pay a shop: No engine hoist, exhaust Y pipe has to be disconnected. (Factory manifolds/y pipe on her car i didnt want anything to snap just too many problems)
I got an oil pan from someone here on TGO. It was like $20 shipped just ask in the classifieds.
Basically it sounded like a pain in the *** to do without the proper tools. I dont have a cherry picker either.
You need a 1 pc rear main seal oil pan. 86' and newer i believe was 1 pc, before that they were 2 pc. If you want to just go stock, cheap, new pan just get one from your local autoparts store.
Good luck with what you decide!
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 3,462
Likes: 4
From: N. Illinois
Car: 92 GTA/ 00 TA
Engine: 383/350
Transmission: 700R4/T-56
If you're looking for stock then just go to your auto parts store.
You have a 1pc rms.
Been a while since I changed mine but yeah you'll have to pull the dizzy cap, put the crank timing mark at 6 o'clock, remove the 2 motor mount through bolts, and jack that baby up. I jacked mine up with a board between my jack and the crank pulley. No dent. You only need it up high enough to slip a 2x4 in between the motor mount and the clamshell width-wise. No cherry picker needed. You shouldn't have to do anything with the trans mount either unless it's binding. Same with exhaust.
It really is a simple job. 2 hours is all it took me.
You have a 1pc rms.
Been a while since I changed mine but yeah you'll have to pull the dizzy cap, put the crank timing mark at 6 o'clock, remove the 2 motor mount through bolts, and jack that baby up. I jacked mine up with a board between my jack and the crank pulley. No dent. You only need it up high enough to slip a 2x4 in between the motor mount and the clamshell width-wise. No cherry picker needed. You shouldn't have to do anything with the trans mount either unless it's binding. Same with exhaust.
It really is a simple job. 2 hours is all it took me.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 321
From: NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
ok cool, cool, thanks guys, ima go over to my mechanics later today, to get a price, if its too expensive, ill think about doing it myself, im just not too sure i want to try the "floor jack on the balancer" ; even though ive read numerous times that its possible; i know somehting bad wil happen if i try it, we will see tho
im also guna go to some local stores to see waht an oil pan would cost
thanks for the advice guys; i ran a search and found a few other posts where people have done the same accident, and learned a bit there too
im also guna go to some local stores to see waht an oil pan would cost
thanks for the advice guys; i ran a search and found a few other posts where people have done the same accident, and learned a bit there too
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 321
From: NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
ok guys heres the results;
last week I picked up an oil pan from a Chevy dealership nearby, it cost me a bunch of $, and i know, i know i could have gotten one cheaper, but i didnt need an aftermarket deep one or chrome one, etc; so i went with a GM part; knowing it would fit perfectly; cost me a total of $160 for the PAN AND THE GASKET
then i came over to my house with my mechanic, towed the car over to his shop on a flatbed, and today he put the pan in for me, with new gasket; he used the car lift; and to lift the motor up he used one of those tall transmission jacks; unbolted hte motor mount bolts; exhaust (at headers/y pipe) dist. cap, starter, etc.. slid the old pan out, and used some RTV on the new gasket and bolted it up under the motor, car runs good, no leaks, etc
so hopefully now that the car is driveable again, i can drive it over to my painters and have him spray the primer and red paint sometime within the next 2 weeks
again; thanks for the advice and help guys,
-hopefully anyone else who destroys their oil pan and panics like i did willr ead this post and have some idea of what is involved replacing it
Dave
last week I picked up an oil pan from a Chevy dealership nearby, it cost me a bunch of $, and i know, i know i could have gotten one cheaper, but i didnt need an aftermarket deep one or chrome one, etc; so i went with a GM part; knowing it would fit perfectly; cost me a total of $160 for the PAN AND THE GASKET
then i came over to my house with my mechanic, towed the car over to his shop on a flatbed, and today he put the pan in for me, with new gasket; he used the car lift; and to lift the motor up he used one of those tall transmission jacks; unbolted hte motor mount bolts; exhaust (at headers/y pipe) dist. cap, starter, etc.. slid the old pan out, and used some RTV on the new gasket and bolted it up under the motor, car runs good, no leaks, etc
so hopefully now that the car is driveable again, i can drive it over to my painters and have him spray the primer and red paint sometime within the next 2 weeks
again; thanks for the advice and help guys,
-hopefully anyone else who destroys their oil pan and panics like i did willr ead this post and have some idea of what is involved replacing it
Dave
Trending Topics
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 576
Likes: 4
From: Gobles, Michigan
Car: 92 Ttop Z28
Engine: Cammed 6.0
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: Built 10 bolt-3.90s w/ PBR discs
smallblock chevy oil pans, from my experiences, will fit any other smallblock V8, just keep in mind it does matter if its a one piece or two piece rear main seal.
i cannot forsee any problem using a 90TBI pan on a 88 TPI motor, a 1 piece rear main Fbody oil pan should all be the same exact thing, 305 or 350, TBI or TPI.
i cannot forsee any problem using a 90TBI pan on a 88 TPI motor, a 1 piece rear main Fbody oil pan should all be the same exact thing, 305 or 350, TBI or TPI.
Thread Starter
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 1,914
Likes: 321
From: NJ
Car: 1987 IROC-Z
Engine: 406 on N20 w/ EFI
Transmission: P.B. 700R4
Axle/Gears: 12 bolt w/ 3.91
yes- it should fit... fromw aht ive learned about oil pans over the last 4 weeks
oil pans were different from 1980-1985 and 1986-1990 or 91, soemthign to do with the type of seal, one piece or 2
oil pans were different from 1980-1985 and 1986-1990 or 91, soemthign to do with the type of seal, one piece or 2
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post









